Thanks. Think I will run into any major issues without water filtration for say a month?
Though I guess dirty water issues are better than a flood!
Leaking from Heater (revised)
- Thread starter pbc
- Start date
Though I guess dirty water issues are better than a flood!
One month? You will have a green pool. Dirt/debris will continue to fall into the pool 24/7 unless your pool is in an enclosure. In the process it will use all the chlorine being oxidized/sanitized.
If nothing else, have a service company cut the heater out of the plumbing with a simple re-plumb (usually 2-90s, short piece of pipe) so that your circulation can continue. It is done more regularly than you might think as heaters are becoming more and more expensive to repair/replace and people are putting it off until funds are available.
Thanks btw. Had my pool guy come a couple times during the month to add chlorine/clean pool. Just got back and looks okay but haven’t checked chemicals.
Going to have him add a bypass 3 way valve this week. Ideally I could automate it (or get the valve to automatically open and close if the temp of the pool is where it needs to be and heater is off) but don’t have a spare Aux on my PL4 so do not believe I can.
They want to of course replace the whole heater but that’s a $4k cost after labour and the heater. I’m thinking of just replacing the heat exchanger myself.
Only thing I don’t get is why the heater doesn’t seem to stay lit. I hear the woosh after the ignition click, but then the flame light goes off seconds later.
Not sure why a heat exchanger that is barely leaking would cause that? Or if I just need to replace / clean the ignition rod as suggested earlier. Haven’t had a change to figure out how to remove it/where it is .
Is the rod you're referring to essentially this?
If I remove the rod, turn on the gas heater, and it glows red as the heater tries to ignite, does that imply it is fine? Haven't done it yet, but am curious. My pool guy wants to replace the entire heater at a ~CAD$4k cost. But I can relace the heat exchanger and this ignition switch for less than half of that, but am wondering whether there is something else going on and I will be down a rats hole before I realize it and end up spending CAD$6k sort of thing! So trying to rule some things out!
Hayward IDXLFLS1930 Flame Sensor Replacement for Hayward Universal H-Series Induced Draft and Gas Heater
Thanks, I can't seem to locate where that sensor is in the box (and can't find a video for it)?
Also, I removed the igniter to clean it with a bill, but when I put the metal lid back on, it doesn't fully seal, in fact there is a bit of play since there is only the front screw. I can't recall if it was supposed to fully/firmly seal?
Okay I assume this means it is definitely not the ignitor?
Next up is flame sensor if I can find it, presumably it enters the fire box? Will grab the manual!
Next up is flame sensor if I can find it, presumably it enters the fire box? Will grab the manual!
- Dec 13, 2020
- 917
- Pool Size
- 19600
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Jandy Aquapure 1400
For something that costs $4k and can kill you if things aren't right, read the manual. Troubleshooting chart starts on page 34. Don't take chances with gas-fired anything. Please.
Having a guy recommended by Hayward come to open it up and take a look. He mentioned that if it isn't chemistry related (which he says can be somewhat gauged by what the pipes look like) Hayward might cover it under warranty, but usually it's chemistry related. Also implied that if it's been leaking for a while, the box might be damaged beyond repair which I hadn't heard before!
Either way, every time I turned it on I was wondering if it was going to explode in my face for no reason, so probably a good thing to do!
Either way, every time I turned it on I was wondering if it was going to explode in my face for no reason, so probably a good thing to do!
Well good thing I had the guy come look. He took it apart and apparently the fire box also deteriorated (must have been leaking more than I thought), didn’t reccomend replacing the heat echannger.
He’s going to send me pics as in his view it didn’t look like a chemistry issue based on what the pipes looked like. They didn’t show what he said would be the tell tale deterioration of the thickness and or discolouration.
Said to call Hayward with the pics and sometimes they will honour the warranty even out of time, or provide a new heater at a steep discount to market rates.
So will see.
He’s going to send me pics as in his view it didn’t look like a chemistry issue based on what the pipes looked like. They didn’t show what he said would be the tell tale deterioration of the thickness and or discolouration.
Said to call Hayward with the pics and sometimes they will honour the warranty even out of time, or provide a new heater at a steep discount to market rates.
So will see.
If the pipes are nice and clean without any
green color present you may have a chance. I've seen less then a one year old heater get its warranty voided just by the look of the heat exchanger internal pictures. The installer never hooked up the check valve @ the chlorinator so when the pump was off some of that acid migrated back to the heat exchanger completely destroying it.
green color present you may have a chance. I've seen less then a one year old heater get its warranty voided just by the look of the heat exchanger internal pictures. The installer never hooked up the check valve @ the chlorinator so when the pump was off some of that acid migrated back to the heat exchanger completely destroying it.
Wow, thank God I called Hayward and had one of their recommended HVAC guys come out. Hayward said even though the heater was out of warranty, they would send me a new one as a "goodwill" gesture. Just have to pay for installation costs.
BTW @wireform , the heat exchanger was flourescent green in color, but I assume that was just the look of chlorininated water going through it over the years given Hayward didn't mention it?
BTW @wireform , the heat exchanger was flourescent green in color, but I assume that was just the look of chlorininated water going through it over the years given Hayward didn't mention it?
Curious, are there certain parts I should consider removing from the existing Heater that are more likely to fail over time, just to have spares? I'm thinking the control boards, ignitor and bezel/keypad?