I was having a similar experience. Somehow FC was increasing over night. I speculate that I was not getting 100% mixing. Said another way, if you add, and measure a minute later, you may get quite high or low readings if the chlorine has not mixed.
Looking good!
I'm just putting in pucks.. And I don't test till half a day later...I was having a similar experience. Somehow FC was increasing over night. I speculate that I was not getting 100% mixing. Said another way, if you add, and measure a minute later, you may get quite high or low readings if the chlorine has not mixed.
What has it been now, 2 weeks?
You're good. That's a big discrepancy between pH readings?
That's the general consensus with the pH meters... Right or wrong, you don't really know and you have to compare to the drop based test anyway so now your testing pH 2-3 times everytime.
I feel a better approach is to use the acid demand test to see how high the pH is when it's in the higher range of the block.
The acid demand test use reagents that come in the K2006 test kit. If you got the TF100, then you don't have the reagents to do the acid demand.
You would need the 9056 test comparator, R-0004, and R-0005. It may or may not be worth it to you to purchase these items... Probably around $25 but it will provide you with very accurate pH readings since you can backtrack pH levels to the lower pH levels on the test block which are much easier to decipher.
The acid demand test use reagents that come in the K2006 test kit. If you got the TF100, then you don't have the reagents to do the acid demand.
You would need the 9056 test comparator, R-0004, and R-0005. It may or may not be worth it to you to purchase these items... Probably around $25 but it will provide you with very accurate pH readings since you can backtrack pH levels to the lower pH levels on the test block which are much easier to decipher.
You can buy your salt at lowes. Half the price of pool stores.