Keep blowing pump motors pool guy says call electrician

Also electrician would not go anywhere near the back of the motor. He did all testing on the lines leaving the timer box headed to the motor. The motor is 5 feet away does that invalidate anything?
 
When you ask if voltage under load was checked I assume that means pump running?
Yes.
Electrician checked each line at timer box (going out) but I didn’t snap a picture nor do I remember if we compared with pump running to pump not running.
Voltage needs to be checked Line-to-Line and not each line to ground.

The Line-to-Line voltage at the pump while the pump is on should be at least 230 volts.

Volts x Amps = Watts, but you really do not need to know the watts.

You just need to know the volts and amps.

In some cases, you might want to check the Power Factor, but that is rarely necessary.
 
Also electrician would not go anywhere near the back of the motor. He did all testing on the lines leaving the timer box headed to the motor.

The motor is 5 feet away does that invalidate anything?
Possibly.

The voltage leaving the timer might be ok and at the motor terminals it might be low due to bad wiring.

Can you show the motor wiring compartment?
 
The Polaris booster pump is pulling 8.6 amps which is also high according to your estimates James but not as egregious as the main pump. The electrician feels pump motors increase amps over time. Is that accurate?
 

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When you say voltage check line to line I do not know how to do that do I just set my red on white and black on black and set meter on volts? I’m scared to death to do that! Here’s the tester that I own
 

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WhisperFlo 1.65 hp = 1,650 watts at 230 volts and about 7.2 amps.
AquaRite = about 200 watts at 230 volts and 0.9 amps.
Polaris Booster = 1,125 watts at 230 volts and 5.4 amps.
The Polaris booster pump is pulling 8.6 amps which is also high according to your estimates James but not as egregious as the main pump.
That is about 1.6 times too high, so it seems like a problem.

Max is 6.4, so definitely too high.
The electrician feels pump motors increase amps over time. Is that accurate?
That can happen a little bit, but the amps should never go over the label Maximum.

We need a voltage at the motor terminals with the pumps on.

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1st picture is main pump 2nd is booster. It seems like the spade connectors were falling off when I removed rear plate so I have no clue how it is wired!
 

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I will go get the fluke clips tonight so that I can stand back and test things tomorrow at both pumps with and without load. Meanwhile here is how the booster is wired. It looks ok except I will get some new wire and spades from the source line before I test tomorrow.
 

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https://www.homedepot.com/pep/TRIPLETT-Standard-Test-Leads-TL005/314525015
 
To test with no load, you need to test at the timer Line terminals (#1 and #3 (red dots)) with the pump off.

However, this is not as important as testing the voltage at the pump terminals under load.

At long as the voltage under load is at least 230 volts, the voltage is probably ok and you do not need to test for line voltage with no load.

If the voltage is below 230 volts under load, then you need to test the no-load voltage at the line terminals.


1732142528633.png
 
I do see a problem at the booster pump. All of the terminals are spade including where the electricity line in connects to the pump. I cannot find a female spade connection that goes on the solid wire to connect to the power line. All of the female spades are intended for stranded wire. How are you supposed to get a secure connection to those spades with solid electric lines? Is there a stranded wire I should attach to the connection. It seems destined to failure from weak connection as this was installed. TIA
 

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