Glad to hear this. What do you recommend for CYA? Searched the forum and see that dry is better/more economical. I have a local Pinch a Penny, Leslie’s, Walmart, Home Depot and Lowe’s.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Just received my tf 100 test kit, light green water
- Thread starter Aleila
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,834
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I get mine at Home Depot or Walmart. Normally in a 4# jug, dry granules, about $16.
Put the amount you need to get to 30 ppm in an old sock or knee high (no holes). Put it in the skimmer with the pump running on low. After about 30 minutes give it a squeeze now and then and it will dissolve in a day or so.
Put the amount you need to get to 30 ppm in an old sock or knee high (no holes). Put it in the skimmer with the pump running on low. After about 30 minutes give it a squeeze now and then and it will dissolve in a day or so.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,834
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Test your FC again tomorrow morning and each morning until you get below 10 ppm. Then test your other levels. And post them here.
Take care.
Take care.
Heading to get the CYA. I feel like a total beginner because I am a total beginner but I forgot to ask what the CYA is called at Walmart or Home Depot.
I will follow your recommendations and post again once I get below 10 PPM FC.
Thank you
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,276
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
In the big-box stores, CYA will be sold as "Chlorine Stabilizer."
How does the water look now? Still green?
How does the water look now? Still green?
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,276
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Until your FC comes down a bit, you can test with a 5 ml sample and each drop will count as 1. You'll lose some accuracy. I know you're concerned about running through your reagents.
Hi Rancho,
Less green today, a bit cloudier than yesterday but still mostly clear. Just a light green. I plan to brush sides again and get spots of algae around light fixture. Is that ok?
Will take your advice about using less water for next samples until reaching 10PPM FC.
Thanks.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,743
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That will not clear your algae problem. You will continue to have water chemistry issues until you follow the SLAM Process process.
- Read the article carefully.
- Ask any questions you have here before you begin the process.
- Use PoolMath to calculate your chemical quantities. You have to measure your chemicals. You can't just dump in jugs of chlorine.
- Get measuring cups to use.
- You probably need to get more reagent for your chlorine test as you may be doing a bunch of them during the SLAM Process
- You need to stock up on chlorine for the SLAM Process
- Note that the SLAM Process requires CYA to be 30 and pH to be lowered to 7.2 before you begin the process.
- Let your FC drift down to less than 10 so you can get a reliable pH test and adjust the pH as needed to 7.2 when you get ready to being the SLAM Process process. No more additions of chlorine until FC is down around 6. Keep testing the FC and you should see it dropping around 2-4 ppm/day.
- Until you are ready to do the SLAM Process get your pool to CYA 30 and FC of 6+ and get in the groove of your TF-100 testing.
AJW22,
Will do. Just bought stabilizer and measuring cups. Adding 35 ounces per poolmath. Will read article, get more chlorine reagent and keep testing. Will post any questions here.
Thanks!
New test results after adding 35 ounces of Stabilizer yesterday (to the skimmer basket in a ladies knee high stocking.)
FC - 4 (8 drops) tested 5ML of pool water to save reagent
CC - 1 (2 drops)
TA - 150 (15 drops)
Calcium Hardness - 22 drops and no color change. Not sure if I should have kept going...
CYA - 30
Water is very clear, still slight green tinge.
FC - 4 (8 drops) tested 5ML of pool water to save reagent
CC - 1 (2 drops)
TA - 150 (15 drops)
Calcium Hardness - 22 drops and no color change. Not sure if I should have kept going...
CYA - 30
Water is very clear, still slight green tinge.
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- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,743
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Those tests look much better.
What is your pH?
Test the pH, TA and CH of your fill water.
Now use PoolMath to add enough liquid chlorine to up your FC to 6-8.
What is your pH?
Test the pH, TA and CH of your fill water.
Now use PoolMath to add enough liquid chlorine to up your FC to 6-8.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,276
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
Hi Aleila...
For 5 ml test, each drop counts as 1.
So FC is 8 and CC 2.
You could probably go back to the 10 ml test now that your FC has dropped.
pH was 8.2 very pink. Slightly pinker than OTO display vial
TA was 150
Calcium Hardness Test - no change to blue after 22 drops so I wasn’t sure if I should keep going so I stopped at the 22nd drop.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,743
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Gotcha. In this case TC is 10. Will redo the tests but was wondering about the calcium hardness test. There was no color change after 22 drops, so I wasn’t sure if I should keep going so I stopped and figured I would ask here.
On the CYA test. I could still see a teeny tiny bit of the black dot at thirty but maybe it was my eyes playing tricks because I “know” the dot is there. Definitely could not see it halfway between 30 and 20 Mark. Not sure how much difference those five or so points actually make.
The pool water. There is no test using fill water from the house, is there?
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