Just opened pool - what now?!

Desire5292

Well-known member
Apr 30, 2019
78
Sylvan Springs, Alabama
Just uncovered the pool..so discouraging! I closed it exactly like the pool store told me to and kept it covered all winter. It's very green but I can see the bottom. What do i do now....add chlorine, test, add water (it's below skimmer), start pump/filter? What's first?
Thanks!
 

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The minute you mentioned pool store, I got nervous. Can you first:
1 - Provide us a full set of water test results from either a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit?
2 - Tell us what chemicals have been added to the water on a routine basis and for last winter's closing?
3- Are you on a well?

We'll need that info to help you forward.
 
I just got my TF-100 test kit yesterday...so that should be first? I'm no longer using the pool store but that's what I did last year. Just used the typical 3" chlorine tabs, granulated shock, algaecide, etc that they give you from the pool store. Not sure of all the names! :/ I know I closed it with half a bottle of some algaecide (I think it was supposed to be long-lasting) and a 2 or 3 bags of shock (68% calcium hypochlorite or something like that?). And I'm on city water.
 
Okay. This is my first time using it so I'm hoping I did it right. Going to share how everything went so maybe someone who's used to it can tell me if I did it wrong.

FC - 0.5? It turned BARELY pink...added one drop of the other stuff and it immediately changed back to clear.
CC - Not sure? Same...it started out barely pink and with one drop returned to clear. But I left it sitting while I tested everything else and noticed it had turned slightly pink a few minutes later. So I added another drop and had the same thing happen...turned clear, but a few minutes later was pink again. I never could get it to stay clear. Can someone explain?
CH - 150
TA - 30? It only changed to hot pink rather than red but I'm assuming that's what it's supposed to do?
CYA - Less than 20? I never could get it to the point where I couldn't see the black dot in the bottom of the tube. Tried it inside in bright light and out in the sunshine.
 
Perfect! Desire, at this point you do have the option to exchange some water. I don't think you don’t have to at this point. It might help remove some of the questionable pool store products added before which could help to make the clearing process a bit quicker, but not a must. If you do decide to exchange water, be careful to not go too low. Keep at least 2 feet in the pool so the liner and walls remain stable.

Whether you change some water or not, you should stock-up on several gallons of regular bleach (No Clorox, splashless or scented products). Then I recommend the following with pump continuously running:

1 - Use baking soda to increase your TA to about 60-70. The Poolmath tool tells me that’s about 8-10 lbs for your 17K pool (2ea 4lb boxes). Broadcast spread across the pool and sweep around. Yes the bright Barbie pink is what you are looking for.
2 – Add enough “regular” bleach using the PoolMath Tool to increase FC to 10. Add nothing else yet other than bleach. Wait only 10 minutes and check the FC again. If it dropped drastically below 5 ppm (which is expected), increase the FC back to 10 immediately and re-test again in 10 minutes. Do this 10-min drill until the FC begins to hold somewhere between 5-10. Closer to 10 the better.
3 – Only after the FC shows signs of holding do you add stabilizer for a CYA goal of 30. At that point, increase the FC to “12” which is your actual SLAM level.

Maintain that FC of 12 and follow all of the instructions on the SLAM page for best results. Good luck!

In the future, do not add any algaecides accept for possibly at winter closing time. When/if you do, make sure it’s a Polyquat 60 product. Do not use the regular algaecides commonly found at pool store as most will contain copper. For free chlorine during the year, stick to regular bleach since it has no side effects.

** FC Testing; continue to use a 10ML water sample size and use a heaping scoop of power then mix. Count the drops until clear and divide in half. Example: 14 drops = FC of 7. If the solution is allowed to sit, it will revert back to light pink. Just ignore that.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
 

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Here's a somewhat unrelated question (but it does have to do with opening the pool and I wanted to look for something while I'm out getting chemicals):
The pressure gauge on my filter is totally out of commission. Doesn't work at all, is really rusted, etc. I can't find anything on the filter saying what model it is except that it's a Waterway TWM sand filter. All the numbers I've found are related to parts. I'm just wondering if pressure gauges are fairly universal or do I need something specific to that model?
 
I'm just wondering if pressure gauges are fairly universal or do I need something specific to that model?
Usually they are. Most have a 1/4" fitting. You can post a pic if you like so we can see what kind is installed on your filter. The gauges listed on THIS PAGE from TFTeskits.net are very good. Glycerine filled for better reliability. You'll definately want a serviceable gauge during the SLAM Process.
 
Here it is! I have a feeling I'll need to replace several small things on the pump and filter. They both look pretty rough and I haven't really ever known what to do with them (other than clean out the pump basket and backwash the filter occasionally). This will definitely be a learning process! Glad I'm in the right place. :)
 

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Yes, that looks like a standard 1/4" fitting. That link above should work for you. You do have the option of grabbing a gauge there locally as well. It might not be glycerine filled, but at least you'll have something. See how the numbering goes from 0-60? Don't get a gauge with anything that goes higher (i.e. 0-120). Then it's too hard to see small movements.

Make sure to have some teflon tape to wrap around the threads once you clean everything up and get ready to install the new one.
 

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