Just installed sand filter and salt system, help dial her in!

Thull1021

Member
Aug 3, 2020
9
Port Charlotte Florida
So far this forum has saved me hundreds on my latest project. I just replaced my old wore out cartridge filter with a jacuzzi 24in sand filter, and finally ran out of chlorine tablets so I converted to a jacuzzi 40k salt system. (Both were on sale at Leslie’s and I couldn’t resist, between the sale and mailer coupons I paid $1100 out the door for the pair!) so anyways I half drained my pool, scrubbed and pressure washed my tiles, and refilled. Then I installed the salt system (wired to my timer), and sand filter. I filled my filter with 250lbs of the HTH Pool sand from ace, and dumped 12 40lb bags of diamond crystal salt pellets (used the pool calculator) in the pool. I’ve run the pump now for about 15 hours and have yet to turn in my salt system. My water test kit has not shown up in the mail so I just went to lassoes with a sample and here’s the results.

free chlorine: 2
Total chlorine: 2
PH: 8.3
Total alkalinity: 104
Calcium hardness: 240
Cyanuric acid: 80
Iron: 0
Copper: 0
Phosphates: 500
Salt: 5200

so that being said I must be off on my pool volume. Maybe it’s more like 11-12k gallons because I overshot the salt like crazy. sooooo now what? I’m thinking muriatic acid to lower ph (3 cups), turn on the salt cell (40%), and what about my phosphates? The “no phos “ I had from Leslie’s was for a cartridge filter and the guy had no other recommendations. Will it work in a sand filter? Is there something else I can do?

here’s some pictures because everyone loves pictures lol

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Welcome to TFP! :wave: Beautiful pool and view you have there. You seem like someone who is motivated to make that oasis the best it can be. You've already done a lot, but you're missing the most important final step - the proper test kit. You have to cut the cord from pool store testing and their overpriced weekly cupful treatments that will do nothing for your water. Skip the PhosFree, and any other such treatment potion. Get yourself a TF-100 (link in my signature) or Taylor K-2006C. See Test Kits Compared. I favor the TF-100, but you need one or the other. Then post those results. We simply see too many errors from free testing to give too much advice. I would "hope" their pH is somewhat close, so yes ... lower that to about 7.6-7.8. Use our PoolMath APP to help you.

Please see our ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and the other Vital Links below in my signature,. With the right test kit, you'll have a fabulous pool season. As for the salt, yeah, it may be high, but test it on your own as well. Did you order a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit? If not, you should do that as well. Go HERE. Let the water continue to mix again until tomorrow evening and take another salt test. It can vary a bit.
 
Thanks for the reply! I did in fact order the Taylor k2006-salt kit. I wasn’t gonna post until I got it because I’ve read enough threads in here to realize that’s step 1 😂 I’m worried it’s gonna spiral out of control while I’m anxiously waiting on the mail man. The last thing I want is my freshly cleaned pool and new filter getting loaded full of algae. I’m trying to get in the ball park here, then when my kit shows up I’ll Try and fine tune this sucka! I played around with the pool calculator app and put 2.5 cups muriatic acid in tonight, and kicked the salt cell on at 40%. I’ll recheck after work tomorrow
 
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Gotcha. Well, we are excited for your test results. The store test is very skeptical, but your CYA may be elevated. If so, you do need more chlorine right away. It won't hurt you at all to elevate the FC to about 8-10 for the next day or two. That's not even SLAM level for the CYA of 30, so you should be fine. Best to do that with liquid chlorine and help to keep the green away. :)
 

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There are a couple ways to rationalize this, if it'll make you feel better. If after draining 1/3 you still have a CYA of 100 (likely more), you were going to have to drain more water anyway, even if you hadn't overdosed the salt. Would have been more cost effective to do it all at once, but you're not really paying for water twice. Draining to fix your CYA will solve for the salt at the same time, so that only cost you a few bags of salt, salt is cheap. If you stick with TFP, you're going to start saving a lot of money: from chems you will no longer be buying at the pool store. And the advice you get here is FREE, along with the education you're receiving in pool care from Pool School (priceless!). You're already back in the black, you just didn't realize it!

Welcome to TFP! ;)
 
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Hey Thull and Welcome. I dont know your specific model but mine works well below what it asks for. (Asks for 3600 and works fine at 2800) Some models like it high though and yours could be one if them. Unless anyone objects, aim for 3k ppm with the salt and see if it comes on. (After it takes a day to mix up)
 
Just retested my water since yesterday was my first ever self test (pretty straight foreword though). Wife and kids went swimming while I was at work today as well.

Fc- 5.5
Cc-.5
Ph-7.6
Ta-120
Ch-290
Cya-95
Salt-6400

gonna drain some of the pool again... and since I now have a sand filter, should I use the waste position to drain my water? I feel Ike that will be way faster then my spigot attachment off the pump
 
Well I drained and filled about half of the water over the weekend and it circulated all day today. I just tested the water and the results are as follows
FC- 1.2 (I just turned the swg to 100%)
CC- .2
PH- 7.6
TA- 80
CH- 180 (Need to add 17lbs calcium chloride?)
Cya- 35 (Need to add 1 gallon liquid cya?)
Salt- 3200 (I just added 1 bag after testing)

Does this seem about right? As far as the calcium hardness where should I be with a pebble pool?
 
Does this seem about right? As far as the calcium hardness where should I be with a pebble pool?
Recommended Levels

Add some chlorine to get to your target level. Let the SWCG maintain it.
You salt was still 3200 ppm after drain/refill to lower your CYA from 95 to 35?
 
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