Just got my bid need HELP!

[IcemanK2]

Permits included in pricing.

Excavation

Excavation to be dug with Full-Size Excavator & Dump Truck. (Additional cost for Mini Excavator, Bobcat/Shuttle or Rock dig) Excavation to include a maximum 12” of pre-grade for pool area in order to achieve a final structure. Pool to be hand dug at corners to maximize pool square footage. All dirt to be removed from site unless otherwise specified.

Steel

A 12” x 12” – 4 bar box beam runs to top perimeter of the pool using 1/2” #4 rebar. Steel curtain of pool to be tied on a minimum of 10” centers with alternative bars in stress areas of pool giving a 10” x 10” grid with 3/8” #3 rebar. Structure warranty is included in standard price.

Plumbing

Pool
1 A&A Channel drain
2” schedule 40 drain lines
2” schedule 40 backwash (DE only)
2 skimmers with lids
2” return lines w/ 1½” inlets
5 returns
1 overflow line

Spa
2 anti-vortex safety drains
2 ½”schedule 40 suction
2” schedule 40 air line
2 ½” schedule 40 return
8 hydrotherapy jets - 2 dual jet seats and 4 single jet seats
1 spa return


Skimmers and safety drains with hydrostatic relief valves are plumbed with individual lines between swimming pool/spa and equipment location. Each is individually valved with Jandy neverlube valves. Hand dug plumbing trenches with all lines minimum 12” deep and laid out flat using commercial grey glue. All plumbing to be pressure tested during construction to a minimum of 30 p.s.i. Hose bib pool fill included. Auto fill available upon request (Not recommended due to not catching a leak which could continuously run the water and for an expensive water bill) at no charge.

Gunite

Pneumatically applied six sac mixes. All dry mixed gunite and shot on each individual site. Minimum thickness: walls = 8” floors = 8” coves = 10” & 12” x 12” perimeter beam. Structural warranty included. Shotcrete / wet gunite available upon request (Not recommended on this project) at no charge.

Tile

6” Frost proof band of porcelain or ceramic tile around perimeter of pool. Skimmers mouths to be lined with tile.

Electrical

Additional circuits and electrical outlet added at pool equipment. Zodiac/ Jandy IQ904 i-Aqualink in standard price. Freeze protection monitor at pool equipment.

Deck

Paver and synthetic grass combo about 600 Sq Ft total

Equipment

Offering the most eco friendly and energy efficient base pool in the industry. 3Yr Pro Edge warranty on Jandy products. Sales tax included in pricing. Gunite / poured concrete steel reinforced equipment pad with 3/8” steel on a 10-12” center included in standard pool options.

Standard Controller: Zodiac/Jandy IQ904 i-Aqualink 2.0 web connect device.
Standard Pump: Zodiac/Jandy JEP 2.0 “ePump” Stealth variable speed pump.
Standard Filter: Zodiac/Jandy Pro Edge 60 sq ft. DE filter w/ Jandy neverlube backwash valve
Standard Spa Heater: Zodiac/Jandy JXI400 BTU Pool and Spa Heater (83% thermal efficiency rating and low-N0x / surpasses DOE energy eff. req.)
Standard Spa/Blower: Zodiac/Polaris QT “quiet” 1.5 hp blower (Spa Option)
Standard Cleaner: Zodiac/Polaris Vac-Sweep 280 w ¾ Polaris PB4-60 booster pump
Standard Chlorination: TruClear salt system (Up to 35,000 gallon pool)
Standard Valves: Zodiac/Jandy Pro Edge never lube valves with a lifetime warranty

Clean-up

(3) Clean-ups and shell clean included. Gutters to be tied in with drainage as necessary in pool area. Fence repair for 2 panels included. Fence, sprinkler and sod priced separately in order to accommodate flexibility with Buyer. If Buyer wants to use another fence company or landscaper to do fence or landscape we would be happy to accommodate.


The “Custom” Upgrades for my Pool...

Pool Length and Width: 64’7” X 9’0”
Pool: 511 sq.ft. / 132’ Perimeter
Pool & Spa: 564 sq.ft. / 146’ Perimeter
Pool Depth: 3’6” – 5’ – 4’

• Premium Schedule 40 PVC Plumbing System with hand dug trenches, 45% & 90% joints. No PEX plumbing or heat & bent through open dirt.*
• 18” Raised Spa with 8 jets
• 2” Cast Stone Coping (Color selection TBD)

• (2) A&A Splashdown bubblers located in tanning ledge.

• (1) Jandy Valve Actuator for Water Features, which allows water features to be turned On or Off when circulation pump is running using Automation Feature.
• (1) Ball Valves for Water Features’ flow control
• (2) Newport Bronze Metal Skimmer Lids with brass 4” glued drain lines with gutters tied in at pool area with PVC to pop up.

• Pebble or Mini-Pebble Plaster “Platinum” Color Selection:
• Wet Edge Prism Matrix Pebble Finish: (Southern Lights in Pool, Glossy Black in Spa) 15 yr warranty

• Premium 100 Watt Upgraded Jandy LED Package.
• (5) Jandy LED Underwater Light, RGBW Watercolors 20W (The brightest Color Changing LED Light in the Industry / 9 vibrant colors and 5 light shows)

• 1” x 1” Marker tile on benches and steps
• Lap Lane Tile on bottom of Pool from spa to tanning ledge
• 382 Sq Ft Synthetic Grass surrounding pool/spa
• 210 Sq Ft Pavers
• Flood light over equipment pad

 

[IcemanK2]

For some context we are in the DFW area, we're really impressed and feel great about this builder.

We would love suggestions on things to change, add, delete, or substitute. Stuff that has worked out better than you would have dreamed. Stuff that you wish you had put in from the initial build.

Please help us get this right. This pool is being built to get a lot of years out of with growing kids and we will not be moving for a very long time. We really want to get it right without going too crazy.

Thanks in advance we are trying to do a lot and need all the help we can get.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

Long and skinny pool! I come up with ~17000 gallons. Is that about correct?

The Truclear SWCG is fine if that is the size. Have them remove the Nature 2 mineral thing. You do not want that.

Be aware that regular ball valves eventually fail. So be sure you can replace them.

Without an auto fill you will have to be home during your dry times or you will need someone to fill the pool. One option is to run a fill line but automate the valve so you can control it with your automation.

I am sure others will chime in. Have fun!!

 

[Dirk]

No drains.
No ball valve.
No Nature 2 mineral system.
Auto-fill. (What is up with the leaky pool excuse?!?) You can always turn it off, you can't add it later!
Overflow system.

Details upon request, no charge!

Welcome to TFP, Iceman! Congrat's on the build! Buckle up!!

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Uhg, no matter how much or little I type, Marty beats me every time!!

 

[IcemanK2]

17,000 sounds to be in the ballpark but I am thinking about having them change it to 3'6"-4'6"-3'6" for laps, walking down/back, and volleyball. Yes, long and skinny so I can swim laps! WooHoo...

What would you suggest instead of the Ball Valves??

So the auto fill can be tied into the IAquaLink or just a valve on the hose bib that can be controlled by IAquaLink?

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The thought was that if there was a leak in the pool it would not be detected until the large water bill showed up and might take a while before it was noticed. They suggested a timer/metered fill device.

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No Drains how does that work?

I wonder if this is a city permit issue?

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I see an overflow line. How does that differ from an overflow system?

 

[Dirk]

Me in blue.

17,000 sounds to be in the ballpark but I am thinking about having them change it to 3'6"-4'6"-3'6" for laps, walking down/back, and volleyball. Yes, long and skinny so I can swim laps! WooHoo...

I like a deep end. We have different needs, so no other comment about that.

What would you suggest instead of the Ball Valves??

Jandy Neverlube only. An $83K pool doesn't deserve ball valves!

So the auto fill can be tied into the IAquaLink or just a valve on the hose bib that can be controlled by IAquaLink?

Two different suggestions. Marty's idea was to be able to control your filler via automation. I presume so you could schedule it, or operate it from indoors or remotely (he's got a pool cam, which is on my wish list). The autofiller I was suggesting is a PoolMiser or something similar. It controls the level, never too low or too high, rain or shine. There are pros and cons, you can read about them in the linked thread. I wouldn't have a pool without a PoolMiser (disclaimer: it's the only system I know).

New IG build League City, TX

The thought was that if there was a leak in the pool it would not be detected until the large water bill showed up and might take a while before it was noticed. They suggested a timer/metered fill device.

That could be fine, I don't know it. If it's a "gizmo," I'd like to hear how it is any more or less reliable than an auto-filler. If they're so worried about a leak, I don't know what to say about that. Does it happen that often? I guess I'll find out someday. Eight years with PoolMiser, no leak issues. It did fail once, wasted water. I noticed it, and fixed it myself. No huge bill. I suppose it could have been worse, but I maintain my pool and check on the filler as often as I check on the skimmer, which is every day.

No Drains how does that work?

Works just fine. I describe it in that same link.

I wonder if this is a city permit issue?

Might be. More about that in the other link too.

I see an overflow line. How does that differ from an overflow system?

Sorry, missed that. Can be separate, or can be part of the auto-fill system (see PoolMiser).

One more word about auto-fill and leaks. I am quite confident, based on how many times I have flooded my garden by filling my stupid little fountain bowl with a hose, that during my lifetime with a pool, the cost of me forgetting the running fill hose would far out weigh the cost of the one pool leak I might get, someday, maybe. That's just me...

 

[IcemanK2]

Ok so I have gone over this a bunch and now I am thinking it has the Jandy NeverLube valves except the 1 ball joint for water feature flow control...
"Standard Valves: Zodiac/Jandy Pro Edge never lube valves with a lifetime warranty"
"(1) Ball Valves for Water Features’ flow control"

Is there a reason they would not use a NeverLube for that?

 

[mknauss]

I suspect the line size will be smaller and Neverlube smallest valve is 1.5".

Like I said, just be sure the install allows for repair/replacement of the ball valve. There are small ball valves with union connections so they can be replaced easily.

 

[Dirk]

Is there a reason they would not use a NeverLube for that?

$40

Only half joking. Marty's right, of course. They often run 1" or 3/4" PVC to water features. But if it were my pool, I'd use a Jandy and reduce it down after the valve from 1.5" to 1" or 3/4". It's overkill, but that's my middle name. Marty's solution is a fine one. I find it ironic though. They're so concerned about a leak with the auto-filler, but they'll put in a ball valve. The only leak I ever had was when my ball valve failed. To be fair, that was noticeable (above the ground).

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I just wrote a post about my pebble-pickin' experience. Might be of interest:

The tribe has spoken

 

[IcemanK2]

Now I need to try and understand how I could control the Filling via the AquaLink vs PoolMiser(Whats the difference from the SmartMiser?) One of the issues for me is I am gone out of town for days at a time from the house.

 

[mknauss]

To control the fill via the Aqualink you would have a valve, say a sprinkler valve, that you could schedule to run for so long or run when you told it to with a set time to run. That keeps you from forgetting to turn off a hose and also allows you to keep the pool full when you are gone. A fill line is also cleaner looking than a hose run to the pool.

The PoolMiser is a valve actuated by the level of water in the pool. My pool has a basic float valve. I suppose it could fail open. Hasn't yet.

 

[IcemanK2]

OK so maybe a NeverLube reduced down? I can check on that, $40 is nothing.

So if not an aggregate surface then what do you suggest for look, feel, and durability. We do plan on walking the pool especially my folks who live down the road. We think maybe Volleyball even though it is narrow. Definitely laps although there will be about 1 foot of tile below the waterline for flip-turns/feet.

It might be hard for us to move off the ones we have picked...

 

[Dirk]

With the automated solution, just like your lawn sprinkler system, you'd have to recalibrate the "sprinkler run time" multiple times a year, to account for the difference in evaporation rates as the weather changes.

With the PoolMiser, you never have to do anything with it, when the water gets too low, it comes on and fills the pool back up. When the water gets too high, it pours out the overflow tube. Weather independent. You couldn't control the PoolMiser remotely, but you wouldn't need to.

The PoolMiser can get stuck open, mine did. It was right after I connected my water softener to it, so I probably sent some dirt down the pipe. It now receives filtered, softened water, so dirt and calcium build up are not likely. I expect it to work well, indefinitely. If you connect it to hard/unfiltered city water, that might be an issue. The valve is based on a toilet valve, so they are not infallible. You need to keep an eye on all pool equipment: skimmer and pump baskets, filter pressure, pump operation, chemical balance, etc, etc. Checking my autofill is just part of the daily (OK, every-other-daily) routine. Takes about 5 seconds.

The automation solution is not infallible either. If your controller or valve solenoid failed or otherwise lost power, say while you were away, your water level could drop below your skimmer opening within a couple days (1" a day is typical in hot areas). A PoolMiser is not subject to electronic or power failures. It's all a roll of the dice.

No help at all, right?!

I had to look up SmartMiser. Appears to be a RF sender that monitors water level, and then commands a receiver that operates a sprinkler-type valve to fill the pool. Pretty much the worst of both the solutions above, plus a battery in the mix. It's got a similar vulnerability to the PoolMiser, of failing to properly sense the water level (stuck on, stuck off), and the same vulnerability of the automation solution: electronics and power dependent. That'd be my last choice...

I think it's primary purpose is to replace a manual fill valve, for a pool that is already built that cannot now accommodate a PoolMiser, which have to be planned for during the build stage.

 

[IcemanK2]

Thanks Dirk I will look into the auto fill further.

What do y’all think about the equipment?

Standard Controller: Zodiac/Jandy IQ904 i-Aqualink 2.0 web connect device.
Standard Pump: Zodiac/Jandy JEP 2.0 “ePump” Stealth variable speed pump.
Standard Filter: Zodiac/Jandy Pro Edge 60 sq ft. DE filter w/ Jandy neverlube backwash valve
Standard Spa Heater: Zodiac/Jandy JXI400 BTU Pool and Spa Heater (83% thermal efficiency rating and low-N0x / surpasses DOE energy eff. req.)
Standard Spa/Blower: Zodiac/Polaris QT “quiet” 1.5 hp blower (Spa Option)
Standard Cleaner: Zodiac/Polaris Vac-Sweep 280 w ¾ Polaris PB4-60 booster pump (Black Max)

Anything I should consider changing/upgrading that would save time and money in the long run?

 

[mknauss]

Consider a robot. A pressure side cleaner is very old technology. You can put the plumbing in if you like but just do not get the pump or cleaner. Buy the robot yourself, not through the PB.

I assume you are leaving in the SWCG without the mineral device.

 

[IcemanK2]

Thanks Marty.

Yeah I wasn't sure about the mineral device to begin with so I am glad you spoke up, that will be removed.

So a robot will do a better job than say a Polaris 380? Is it more energy efficient? Whats the cost differential? The thing I heard is heavy, hard to get in and out, difficult to store and has to have and electrical extension cord plugged in. Any light you could shed on this would be great!

 

[mknauss]

A robot is far more energy efficient. To run the Polaris you must run your main pump and the booster pump. That will consume many times the electricity of a robot. A robot does its work in 2 hours or so.

Robots start at around $700 without bells and whistles to ~$1500 with bluetooth, caddy, etc.

Mine is not heavy, about 20 lbs. Ease it out of the pool as the water drains from it. If you get a caddy it is easy to store. I do not have one but not a big deal. Have lots of space in my 16x40 RV garage. I set it on the side so it does not crush the brushes. The robot has a cord and you should not need an extension cord. You need a GFCI outlet near the pool. Not sure of your design but it could be at the equipment pad or nearby patio.

 

[jimmythegreek]

I agree with marty and dirk and my only comment is on the size. while its great to have a long pool for laps, the 9'width is gonna be tight for the long hual with kids. I would much rather have 50ft lets say and make the pool at least 12'wide. a 40' pool is minimum for laps unless you are die hard swimmer then 50 or up but thats my opinion. whats the lay of your land look like?

 

[Dirk]

Lots of pros and cons to all the cleaner systems. I have a suction-side vac (no booster, no tail), that replaced my 280. It's got its own set of things I like/dislike.

I like Marty's idea about the port: have the PB plumb a line appropriate for either a pressure-side vac or a suction-side vac or manual vac. I'm not actually sure there's any difference, just tell him you want to be able to run any of those. He'll have you pick one to start, as it matters how it's connected at the pad. That'll be up to you which you want to try first. The objective is to have the line under your deck and available in your pool, which you want to start with (pressure or suction) doesn't matter all that much, and can be converted later. Then have him extend a GFI outlet somewhere near your pool, so you can use a robot, too. That way you'll have all your bases covered, and can decide and/or switch later. The outlet will come in handy for lots of things, even if you never get a robot. The port might, too, even if you do get one.

 

[IcemanK2]

I agree with marty and dirk and my only comment is on the size. while its great to have a long pool for laps, the 9'width is gonna be tight for the long hual with kids. I would much rather have 50ft lets say and make the pool at least 12'wide. a 40' pool is minimum for laps unless you are die hard swimmer then 50 or up but thats my opinion. whats the lay of your land look like?

I used to be a die hard swimmer hoping to get that going again. Who Knows...