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amheredia

New member
Jul 28, 2024
4
Frisco, TX
Hello
I am starting to take care of my pool and I do have a couple of questions, but let me first share the values that I have using the Taylor K-2006 C test kit:
ph = 7.6
fc=3.6
cc = 0
alkalinity = 80
calcium hardness = 530
CYA = 80-90 range
13,000 gallon gunite pool.

The FTP app says to add chlorine to my pool to prevent algae, and I read that liquid chlorine is the way to go. The question I have is should I use liquid chlorine which as the active ingredient at 12%, or the house bleach that has 6%, or calcium hypochlorite at 73% concentration. The question comes from the safety precautions required to add the Chlorine. Using Liquid Chlorine with low concentrations and pouring it slowly next to a return jet, or pouring the granular
powder from Leslie's pool supplies with high concentration in the skimmer. The label states to be very careful and wear safety gloves and protect my eyes.

The CYA seems to be high and sort of prevents the FC from being killed by UV, so adding the power powder plus from Leslie that is stabilized might increase my CYA but increase my FC, and on top of that it is risky to handle it.

On the other hand, the guy who used to service my pool did not wear any gloves when testing the water with the Taylor kit, however, the videos at Taylor's website show a person wearing gloves when handling the reagents and doing the testing.

Based on the TFP's collective experience, I am reaching out to ask for guidance for above-described questions.

Thanks
 
Your CYA is getting very high and I suggest you drain some water to reduce it. Don't use stabilized chlorine until you get your CYA down.

I don't know of anyone that uses gloves to handle the chlorine but some do. It is personal preference and comfort level.

12% has twice what 6% has so you'd need 1/2 as much. Use pool math to determine what you need.

Your FC is too low. Target 10% of your CYA for FC and you'll never have issues.
 
thanks, how much water do I need to drain to lower the CYA. How do I figure it out?
Yes, I am using pool math to get the amounts of chemicals required.
Do I understand from your post that the preferred way is to use liquid chlorine, also because of my high CYA?
 
thanks, how much water do I need to drain to lower the CYA. How do I figure it out?
Yes, I am using pool math to get the amounts of chemicals required.
Do I understand from your post that the preferred way is to use liquid chlorine, also because of my high CYA?

Correct, liquid chlorine.

Check out the below article on FC to CYA relationship. If you want to lower from 80 to 50 you'd need to drain @40% of your water. Make sure you understand the ramifications of draining water, however.

FC/CYA Levels
 
I'm curious to learn the best method for this myself, so I'm watching this thread for the answers. I'll throw in what I think based off of my ZERO experience and looking at the problem from a mathematical perspective. I'd guess that the water should be drained by at least ~5k gal, adding fresh water. This would get the CYA level down to ~52 (based off 85ppm CYA). I may be WAY off and there's probably another solution, but just wanted to throw out what I would think I might do (without advice), and see if I'm a complete idiot, or if I'm close :D
 
With a CYA of 80-90, I'd call it 90.

I would use 12.5% liquid chlorine f you have it available. It is getting hard to find plain bleach without polymers, chloromax, fragrances, softeners etc. 12.5% is not a hazard. If you get some on you, you have a large body of water in front of you to rinse immediately. Put the jug in the water to support some of the weight and pour slowly in front of a return.

No pool chemical should be put into a skimmer. Especially granular. They are acidic and can cause damage. I would avoid granular products, they add CYA or Calcium. Both of which, when they get too high, require water replacement. Stick with liquid, or get a salt water chlorine generator to add chlorine.

You have two choices on the CYA front.

1) Keep your FC at 10-12. Don't let it get below 10. Over time, CYA will degrade and come down on its own, when it does, you can lower your FC target. Always follow this...link-->FC/CYA Levels

2) The other option is to replace about 4000 gallons, that should get you down to 50-60. Use the no-drain water exchange here:
 
With a CYA of 80-90, I'd call it 90.

I would use 12.5% liquid chlorine f you have it available. It is getting hard to find plain bleach without polymers, chloromax, fragrances, softeners etc. 12.5% is not a hazard. If you get some on you, you have a large body of water in front of you to rinse immediately. Put the jug in the water to support some of the weight and pour slowly in front of a return.

No pool chemical should be put into a skimmer. Especially granular. They are acidic and can cause damage. I would avoid granular products, they add CYA or Calcium. Both of which, when they get too high, require water replacement. Stick with liquid, or get a salt water chlorine generator to add chlorine.

You have two choices on the CYA front.

1) Keep your FC at 10-12. Don't let it get below 10. Over time, CYA will degrade and come down on its own, when it does, you can lower your FC target. Always follow this...link-->FC/CYA Levels

2) The other option is to replace about 4000 gallons, that should get you down to 50-60. Use the no-drain water exchange here:
Many thanks for your guidance. I managed to add liquid chlorine and indeed it went up to 7, however based on your post I still need to raise it 3ppm more. The issue I found is that the PH also went up to 8. Reading TPF, it says that I need to lower it ~7.5 and since my pool is plaster based I should use muriatic acid and not dry acid. TPF also states that I need to pour the muriatic acid on a bucket already with water and then pour it slowly in front of a return jet. what are your thoughts?

From now on, is it correct that every time I add liquid chlorine, I need to lower the PH. I believe the liquid chlorine I have has a high PH, that is why the PH went up. Are there are product recommendations for liquid chlorine and I think muriatic acid?

Regarding the CYA, I am thinking that I am going to wait a bit, as I read the ramifications of emptying the pool, so rather I wait until I am more comfortable with the chemistry and then I can look into the no-drain water exchange.
 
Liquid chlorine is pH neutral. When it is added to the pool it does not effect your pH.

With a TA of 60-80, your pH should be fairly stable between 7.8 and 8. When it reaches 8, only lower to 7.8.

Pour the muriatic into the pool from the jug, over the return with pump running. Pencil stream. You can support the jug with the water in the pool. Don’t premix. Less handling the better.

Pinch a penny, Walmart for LC. Ace, paint stores and HD/lowes have muriatic.
 
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