July and have yet to swim!

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Jaylakay

Active member
Jun 7, 2019
40
Chicago Area
This is my third year as a pool owner and I have no idea how to get my pool clean this time.
My pool was green a couple days after removing the winter cover. I used algaecide and then attempted to follow SLAM. My results were a weird light sludge on the pool bottom, cloudy with floating sediment. I applied flocc and vacuumed to waste and it's still gross! I plan on vacuuming to waste again
What do I do? I don't know where I went wrong. The pictures I've attached are from today.
Thank you for any suggestions!!
 

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Welcome to TFP! :wave: In a nutshell, you aren't really following the SLAM Process process yet. With a proper test kit (see Test Kits Compared), follow the SLAM Process to the letter and you'll see much better results. You should also refrain from using algaecides and floc. Those aren't designed to kill algae and will only complicate the situation.

With a TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C), post a full set of results and we'll help coach you through the SLAM.

Also see ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Thanks for using the fourm. :swim:
 
Texas Splash said:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: In a nutshell, you aren't really following the SLAM Process process yet. With a proper test kit (see Test Kits Compared), follow the SLAM Process to the letter and you'll see much better results. You should also refrain from using algaecides and floc. Those aren't designed to kill algae and will only complicate the situation.

With a TF-100 (or Taylor K-2006C), post a full set of results and we'll help coach you through the SLAM.

Also see ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Thanks for using the fourm. :swim:
Click to expand...

Thank you for the warm welcome!
I've been using this test kit by Chemtel. (Picture attached) Not sure how good it is but I'll certainly look up the TF-100 to replace it if necessary.

I've also attached the test results in picture form. It reads to me that chlorine is around the 3.0, maybe a bit higher.
Combined chlorine read at the 5 minute mark reads higher.
PH looks to be pink so reading high at 8.0.
Acid demand test took 1 drop to bring ph to 7.4. Instructions say that would be 1/2 pint muriatic acid to balance.
Total alkalinity took 8 drops to go from purple to clear. So 80 ppm.
Let me know if I need to gather any other information and thank you again. I need all the help I can get!
 

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The kit you are using is what I would consider similar to a local HTH or Taylor K-2005 drop test kit. Might help with some basic pH & TA results, and also for low levels or FC, but won't help you when it comes to pinpoint accuracy of FC or a higher FC level that is required to do the SLAM Process. As you can see from that SLAM page, the details are in the FC and CYA accuracy - two very important tests to validate before trying to remove algae. You would be better-served to obtain one of those recommended test kits as soon as possible. The accuracy difference is amazing.
 
I also didnt see a CYA reading so we cant even "pin a tail on a donkey without a donkey". The new test kit recommendation is necessary to follow TFPC to complete a SLAM and help you clear your pool.
 
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Texas Splash said:
The kit you are using is what I would consider similar to a local HTH or Taylor K-2005 drop test kit. Might help with some basic pH & TA results, and also for low levels or FC, but won't help you when it comes to pinpoint accuracy of FC or a higher FC level that is required to do the SLAM Process. As you can see from that SLAM page, the details are in the FC and CYA accuracy - two very important tests to validate before trying to remove algae. You would be better-served to obtain one of those recommended test kits as soon as possible. The accuracy difference is amazing.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'm on it! Is the TF-100 sold in stores anywhere?
 
THIS is what you want. Got my first one in 2013 and never looked back. With algae, you might consider getting the XL option, and the magnetic speedstir if you can. They sure help. Customer service and shipping are fantatsic as well. Once you receive it, post a full set of results and we'll coach you through the SLAM Process.
 
Jaylakay said:
Probably why I couldn't get the SLAM method to ever work. I'm seriously such a newb. :LOL:
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We all had to start somewhere. We highly recommend you purchase a TF100 and a speed stir. You wont regret it. It is an investment to your pool for beautiful crystal clear pool water.
 

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Until you get the new test kit, we recommend a few things:

1) Please fill out your signature with pool size/gallons, construction, what equipment you have that you are aware of, and what test kit you are getting - it will help when the time comes to give specific advice based on test results.
2) We recommend adding 5ppm of chlorine to the pool daily until the test kit arrives to get a head start on the SLAM process.
3) For now, please only add liquid chlorine (liquid "pool shock" from pool stores or Walmart / Home Depot, or plain old 6% bleach with no additives like scents/splashless and no Clorox as it always has those)

Welcome!
 
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Jaylakay said:
FC 0.5ppm
PH 8.2 or over
TA 110
CH 150
CYA - the dot did not disappear at all

These are terrible results. What do I even fix first?
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Alright! :goodjob: Your first REAL test of your own. Now we can get moving. So, we know you have algae. Murky water with next to no chlorine. Now it's time for the SLAM Process. Here is your starting point:
1 - Lower the pH to 7.2 with muriatic acid. Use PoolMath to help. Let that mix for about 15-20 minutes to confrim.
2 - As a quick test, add bleach for an FC goal of 10 for now. Check the FC in about 10 minutes. It should still hold betwen 5-10. If it did not, add bleach again until it does.
3 - Once the FC begins to hold, you will add stabilizer. You need a CYA goal of 30 for now. See below.
4 - At that point once the sock is soaking with stabilizer, increase the FC to "12". You will then be in true SLAM mode. Follow all the instructions on that SLAM page and you should do fine. Don't leave anything out that, and let us know if you have any questions.

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
Click to expand...
 
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Texas Splash said:
Alright! :goodjob: Your first REAL test of your own. Now we can get moving. So, we know you have algae. Murky water with next to no chlorine. Now it's time for the SLAM Process. Here is your starting point:
1 - Lower the pH to 7.2 with muriatic acid. Use PoolMath to help. Let that mix for about 15-20 minutes to confrim.
2 - As a quick test, add bleach for an FC goal of 10 for now. Check the FC in about 10 minutes. It should still hold betwen 5-10. If it did not, add bleach again until it does.
3 - Once the FC begins to hold, you will add stabilizer. You need a CYA goal of 30 for now. See below.
4 - At that point once the sock is soaking with stabilizer, increase the FC to "12". You will then be in true SLAM mode. Follow all the instructions on that SLAM page and you should do fine. Don't leave anything out that, and let us know if you have any questions.
Click to expand...
Awesome! Wish me luck, I'll be back in a bit. ?
 
Follow the instructions on the laminated card to do your Free Chlorine (FC), CYA, and Total Alkalinity (TA) tests.
What's your:
FC
CYA
PH
TA

You're going to need a lot of bleach and more patience.
 

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