Jandy Valve

[libirm]

Hello again!
okay - so what position should this valve be in?
Here is what I know- I think
Bottom side pf pic. looks like a 3" pipe- Does go to main drain?
Top side pf pic- likes like 2.5"- likely the skimmer
I have a new pool heater- turn it on today and it said "no flow to heater", pump is on.
Never had a Valve in past pool hook ups- son not sure
Also- it is a variable speed pump- it does not seem to skimming the stuff of surface of water- it that because it's running at it's lower speed?
Is the solution to increase speed until I find that it is cleaning good?
Pump is a max flo 500- Seems a little complicated to program, do you know of a good video or something would make it easier to understand?

 

[Texas Splash]

Check out the image below. In your pic the bottom line is closed. Is this on the pressure (return) side or suction?

 

[PoolStored]

Bottom side pf pic. looks like a 3" pipe- Does go to main drain?
Top side pf pic- likes like 2.5"- likely the skimmer
I have a new pool heater- turn it on today and it said "no flow to heater", pump is on.
Never had a Valve in past pool hook ups- son not sure
Also- it is a variable speed pump- it does not seem to skimming the stuff of surface of water- it that because it's running at it's lower speed?
Is the solution to increase speed until I find that it is cleaning good?
Pump is a max flo 500- Seems a little complicated to program, do you know of a good video or something would make it easier to understand?

Please post a wider picture of the pad.
The valve in the picture is closed to the bottom pipe and open to the other to pipes. Whichever way this (see pic below) is pointing *SHOULD* be closed. However, the nut that holds the handle on has been removed. It is possible that the valve handle has been moved relative to the gate. You need to figure out which way the gate is facing and match the end opposite the handle (like picture below) to the gate.

Pool heaters have "pressure" switches. If the pressure is too low, it will throw the "no flow" error. If the pump basket is full of water (pump primed) and it is moving water, then heat no flow is likely due to running RPM too low. What RPM are you running the pump?
Skimming can also be due to low RPM.

Manual:

https://poolimages.blob.core.windows.net/insite/Product/Documents/HA/Y-/10/HAY-10-0232-ops.pdf

Video:

 

[libirm]

Check out the image below. In your pic the bottom line is closed. Is this on the pressure (return) side or suction?

Thanks That is what i need to figure out- any suggestions how?

 

[libirm]

I believe the speed is 2200 prm- see picture

 

[PoolStored]

Thanks That is what i need to figure out- any suggestions how?

It is on the suction side, given your new picture. Post a picture of everything in the pad, even if it takes a few pics.
What type of filter do you have, and when did you last clean it?

 

[libirm]

All component's newly installed 2 months ago- I have cleaned the filter twice as the previous filter was good for nothing-

 

[libirm]

The question is this- where does pipe 1 feed from- how do I verify
where pipe 2 come from - how do I verify
As mentioned already in this thread - because the handle is not screwed down- best way to know so I can then label

 

[PoolStored]

There are "stoppers" on the lid (see pic) that should stop you from turning off the pipe into pump. There are four splines. Three larger and one smaller on the inside of the handle. Can you confirm? If they have not been damaged, then the handle should only go on correctly.. The handle should go on just one way. The smaller spine is where the gate is located.

Right now, #1 is closed, 2 is open. Take the skimmer basket out, and see if you get any suction at the bottom of the skimmer at the pipe. Then turn the handle 180 degrees, counter clockwise and check again. When you have suction, your skimmer is the opposite of the gate...

 

[ajw22]

The better way is to take all the screws out of the valve (pump off, and DO NOT USE A DRILL DRIVER, manual removal an installation only. Determine where the gate is and orient the handle to the gate. Maybe mark it so you know what side the gate is on. When you put back together, clean with dry cloth and re-lubricate the o-rings and gate with silicone LUBRICANT like magic lube II. Do not use PTFE/TEFLON lube.

The handle can only fit on the stem one way with OFF indicating where the diverter (gate) is. That is always opposite the handle.

 

[PoolStored]

The handle can only fit on the stem one way with OFF indicating where the diverter (gate) is. That is always opposite the handle.

I remembered that after I hit enter and corrected.

 

[1poolman1]

Thanks That is what i need to figure out- any suggestions how?

Put a garden hose in the pump, into the pump inlet so water goes to the pool. Turn it on and find out where it goes with the handle in each position.
Where is the heater? A Hayward MaxFlo VSP is a good pump, but a small (1.5THP), medium-head pump that may need more than 2200RPM to get the heater to fire, especially if there is a lot more plumbing not in a pictures.

 

[libirm]

HeatWave SuperQuiet® SQ120R

 

[libirm]

FWIW-
Update-
Problem with heater- "no Flo"= Pool filter needed to be cleaned- it is currently operating-
The #1 pipe is form the skimmer!
The #2 pipe must be bottom main drain.
The skimmer seems to be doing it's job- but I will by a new jandy valve and switch out parts just to be on the safe said- seems like it's the most economical way, this will no doubt as whats what

 

[PoolStored]

Problem with heater- "no Flo"= Pool filter needed to be cleaned- it is currently operating-

What type of filter do you have, and when did you last clean it?

BINGO! Congrats!

Then turn the valve so the handle is about 7 o'clock...we recommend 90% from skimmer, 10% from drain.

 

[libirm]

Also- my heater is saying low flo- I have a ticket into Aqua Cal
Where would the "12" be?
So I figure out where th 7 is?

 

[ajw22]

Also- my heater is saying low flo- I have a ticket into Aqua Cal

You said above that you got your heater running after you cleaned your filter.

If you have Low Flow again then clean your filter again or increase your pump RPM.

If your filter is quickly clogging and reducing flow through the heater then you probably have algae in your water clogging your filter.

See if you pool passes the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If not then you need to follow the SLAM Process to get your pool algae free.

 

[PoolStored]

Where would the "12" be?
So I figure out where th 7 is?

This is 12.



I concur with @ajw22. You likely have algae, even if you can't see it. Do the OCLT to confirm. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[libirm]

Thanks- the pools is salt and perfectly clear-
OCLT test- (link just sends me to forum) Test at dark- then before dawn- and see of there is a drop?
I put the pump in clean mode & heater started right up-
The previous filter was not doing a thing- this filter seems amazing- I had to clean 3x's sp far.
Could the filter be shot already?

 

[ajw22]

Thanks- the pools is salt and perfectly clear-
OCLT test- (link just sends me to forum) Test at dark- then before dawn- and see of there is a drop?

All that you need to do to complete the OCLT is to test your FC twice with an FAS-DPD test: once after the sun has gone down, and once before the sun comes up. Chlorine is consumed by two things: sunlight and breaking down organic contamination in your pool. By testing at night, we rule out sunlight. Any chlorine consumption overnight must be due to algae or other organic contaminants in the pool.

This test is most useful to confirm that the SLAM process is complete, and can also be useful if you are unsure if there is a problem or not.
This test can only be done with the FAS-DPD test. Test strips, and the OTO and DPD tests, do not have enough precision to determine if small amounts of chlorine are being consumed.

How do I perform the overnight chlorine loss test?

1. If you have an SWG, tablet chlorinator, or other chlorine feeder, shut it off completely.
2. Turn your pump on at least 30 minutes prior to ALL testing.
3. After the sun goes down, and at least 30 minutes after your last chemical addition of the day, perform the FAS-DPD test and record your nighttime results. If your FC is 3 ppm or higher, do not add any more chlorine to your pool. If your FC is less than 3 ppm, add enough liquid chlorine to achieve 3 ppm FC, wait 30 minutes, then retest with the FAS-DPD test.
4. The next morning, ideally before there is any direct sunlight on the pool, perform the FAS-DPD test again and record your daytime results.

If your daytime FC level is within 1 ppm of your nighttime FC level, you passed the OCLT and your water is clean. There isn’t any living algae or other organic contamination in the pool that requires a SLAM.

If you lost more than 1.0 ppm of FC, then there is something in the water that needs to be removed and you should SLAM, or continue SLAMing, the pool.

I put the pump in clean mode & heater started right up-
The previous filter was not doing a thing- this filter seems amazing- I had to clean 3x's sp far.
Could the filter be shot already?

Nope, you have algae clogging your filter.