Jandy salt reading way off the charts

Titan7

LifeTime Supporter
May 9, 2015
846
Peoria, AZ
So my aqualink is telling me the salt is at 4700ppm, my Taylor test kit says 3800PPM. this is after I cleaned the sensor on the salt cell, before cleaning it’s was reading low salt at 1700ppm? cell is coming up on 5 years old.
 
When the cell is dirty, current and production will be lower which will result in a lower salt reading. If you have been adding salt as the cell got dirtier, then it may have risen too high so that when the cell was cleaning, it is reading more correctly. The lesson here is to keep tabs on the cell and keep it clean.
 
"Recalibration" does nothing but replace the average salt display with the instantaneous salt level. It doesn't change anything about the operation of the unit.
 

Recalibration procedure.​

Press the “Salinity” button and hold it until it beeps 3 times. The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds. Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen. The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading. When the proper reading is reached press the “Temperature” button within 5 seconds to store it in memory.

Check the salinity two new and different ways to make sure that you know for sure what the actual salinity is.
 
Try this.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.

While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’).

It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’

key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .
 

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Nope, cleaned the cell, it’s still showing general fault error 121. Guessing I need a new cell, this one is 5 years old. Question,can I just replace the cell or do I need to replace the sensor and all the other cables too.
 
Last edited:
What is the box reading for salinity now?

Does the test procedure show 2.8 gpl?

Check the amperage going to the cell.

full


Look inside the cell to see the center plate to see if it is corroded.

If you are definitely going to replace the cell, remove the two screws holding the cover plate on the prongs to see the base of the prongs.

InkedJandy cell prongs_LI.jpg
 
Did not see any corrosion on the inside when I cleaned the cell a couple days ago. I have a multimeter but not a fancy one like you, mine needs to touch the actual wire. As for what the box says when I first checked it was at 5.1, I pushed the down arrow until it as at 2.8. Assuming I did this correctly?
 
Try this.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.

While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’).

It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’

key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

Report the readings.

What does the box show for salinity now?

You can get a clamp ammeter to check the amperage if you want.

Check the amperage in both polarities.

 

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