Jandy salt reading way off the charts

[JamesW]

Follow the trisensor cord to the circuit board and unplug it.

You need a clamp ammeter that can measure ac and dc amps.

I think that the one you have only does ac amps.

 

[Titan7]

I took DC readings on the blue and red wire from the cell, it was.8 and .9 DC amps?

 

[PoolGate]

I took DC readings on the blue and red wire from the cell, it was.8 and .9 DC amps?

It's dead.

 

[JamesW]

If the cell was trying to run and had good voltage during the amperage test, then I suspect that the cell is probably dead.

What was the voltage during the amperage test?

I would remove the two screws and look under the compression plate and the base of the prongs.

Also, check the metal plates inside the cell for any sign of corrosion.

 

[Titan7]

James, I did not check voltage, only DC amps. I did pick up the Kline CL390 MM as suggested, only tested DC current with with blue and red wire inside the panel. I still have the 121 code error. I did pick up a new PCL1400 kit today, wondering if I should just scrape everything and replace the whole thing. One note, the plates in the new cell sort or move when handling, old cell did not do this, normal? It’s like the plates sliding inside.

I will test voltage tomorrow, hoping you can help me get the system back to factory default.

 

[JamesW]

I think that you probably have a bad cell.

I would replace the cell, flow sensor and cord.

On the old cell, remove the two screws and pry off the plate that goes over the prongs.

 

[JamesW]

Here is a cell with the plate removed and two of the prongs had corroded all the way through.

 

[JamesW]

Once you install the new cell, check the amperage to make sure that it is good.

The amperage should be in the 5.6 amp DC range.

If you look into the end of the cell closest to the prongs, you should be able to see the center prong attached to the center plate as shown in this picture.

Look carefully with a flashlight to see if the center prong is securely attached to the center plate.





Here is the plate with the broken off prongs stuck in the plate holes.

 

[Titan7]

Do you want me to check the center prong on the new cell or old cell?

 

[JamesW]

Old cell.

 

[Titan7]

Ok new cell kit installed, no error codes. What’s crazy is my old cell had salt build up on the plates and I just cleaned it a few days ago???? What’s up with that?
I am attaching photos.

one other thing what’s the factory default for salinity? 3.5? I adjusted my to 2.8.

also, the aqua link is showing salt at 2800 ppm, my Taylor kit says 3800ppm.
Btw it’s the same reading as the old cell and sensor???

 

[JamesW]

The amperage in different polarities is significantly different.

The amperage should be almost exactly the same.

Try the test a few times to make sure the the reading has stabilized.

The meter screen seems a little bit dark, does it have a protective plastic film that needs to be removed?

 

[JamesW]

Try this.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the front board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp.

While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’).

It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’

key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit.

The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the salinity reads 2.8 gpl during the test, then the unit is at factory calibration.

If it is not at 2.8 gpl, you can recalibrate the unit to match the current salinity reading from a known good test.

Recalibration procedure.

Press the “Salinity” button and hold it until it beeps 3 times. The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds. Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen. The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading. When the proper reading is reached press the “Temperature” button within 5 seconds to store it in memory.

Did you check the base of the prongs by removing the two screws and prying off the cover plate?

Did you check the center plate inside the cell?

 

[Titan7]

Ok tested again, see readings 6.86 and 6.96. So in this test, I can disconnect the salinity sensor from the board and and start up the system again with no damage?

 

[JamesW]

I find it helpful to measure the voltage and amperage at the same time.

To measure the voltage at the same time, I created two short jumper wires that can be connected in between the cell cord and the power supply wires.

You just need some 1/4” male and female crimp on connectors and two short pieces of wire.

On the center of the wire, cut off a small section of insulation to create a bare spot of copper wire where you can connect the voltmeter with alligator clamp leads.

Use the clamp ammeter to measure the current and use a separate meter to measure the voltage.

 

[JamesW]

So in this test, I can disconnect the salinity sensor from the board and and start up the system again with no damage?

Yes, disconnect the sensor plug from the socket and run the tests to see if the salinity reads 2.8 gpl.

 

[JamesW]

my Taylor kit says 3800ppm.

Based on the amperage, I suspect that the salinity is probably in the 3,800 ppm range.

I would recalibrate the reading to match the Taylor kit.

 

[JamesW]

I think that if you recalibrate the salinity to 3.8 gpl, that should be all you need to do and you are in good shape..

 

[Titan7]

Okay just ran the Taylor salt test, it’s at 4200ppm, way too high. I am draining some water to get back to a good range. I turned the cell to 0% until I get the salt level to about 3000-3500ppm.
Still not sure why the aqualink shows 2800ppm?? I did adjust it down to that, see my first couple responses in this tread.

 

[JamesW]

Still not sure why the aqualink shows 2800ppm?? I did adjust it down to that, see my first couple responses in this tread.

If you recalibrated, then that is why it is off.

Get the salinity to a good place and then recalibrate the box to match the Taylor kit and you should be good to go.