Jandy PLC1400 issues

Aug 31, 2018
36
League City Tx
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
So, been getting code 120/121 on my Aqua Pure system PLC1400, which is low current in forwards and reverse. Ran through the testing procedure and got 97 mVfor the current test, and 35V at the cell. System was installed in 2018

Looking at the flow chart, this say to replace the cell. Does this seem right? I would have thought low voltage would mean it isn’t working. #notanelectrician

Also, I did the test procedure to test the sensor and all tests failed.
Salinity reading was H.H. Should be 2.7-3.1
Low temp was 87. Should be 73-77
High temp was 95. Should be 89-93
Does this mean bad sensor or bad PIB? I have the new two probe sensor, and it’s in the correct program (A).
 
Check the power cord connection to the cell. Look carefully at the center pin for corrosion.

Also check the trisensor cord and the center pin.

You will probably end up replacing the cell.

When replacing the cell, it's important to replace the power cord so that the connections are clean and the resistance is minimized.

The prongs are sealed by O-rings and a compression plate held down by two screws. The problem is that the O-rings can leak, which creates a corrosive mix of water, salt, hydrogen gas and chlorine gas. This corrosion increases the resistance of the connection and generates a lot of heat due to the high current of 6 to 8 amps.

The center prong is the most common point of failure. You can usually see evidence of a leak when you know to look for it.

 
Check the power cord connection to the cell. Look carefully at the center pin for corrosion.

Also check the trisensor cord and the center pin.

You will probably end up replacing the cell.

When replacing the cell, it's important to replace the power cord so that the connections are clean and the resistance is minimized.

The prongs are sealed by O-rings and a compression plate held down by two screws. The problem is that the O-rings can leak, which creates a corrosive mix of water, salt, hydrogen gas and chlorine gas. This corrosion increases the resistance of the connection and generates a lot of heat due to the high current of 6 to 8 amps.

The center prong is the most common point of failure. You can usually see evidence of a leak when you know to look for it.

Thanks, especially for the link. My sensor only has two probes, I think it’s a newer design. When I ran the sensor checks and got those readings, I had not unplugged the sensor cable from the board, the Jandy troubleshooting guide didn’t mention to do so. I’ll repeat again tomorrow and see if I get in range results which would indicate the board is ok.

Regarding the cell power pins, nothing looks corroded at all, there is still dielectric grease on them. When I checked voltage at the board output it was basically the same as at the cell indicating no voltage drop. When I disconnected the cell power cables from the board the voltage was only about 8; I suppose that because there was nothing connected to draw a load.
I’m going to check the pins again really good tomorrow, and try to get that cap off(I tried but was afraid to break it).

All that said, I think I know why my cell is going bad after 4 years. About 1.5 years ago, I emailed the pool builder about discrepancies in salt readings; the cell would show normal at around 3500, but I had three separate tests from three locations that all said salinity was 2100.
The pool builders response was that it will never match, and as long as it’s making chlorine it is fine. I tried to argue that if it “thinks” the salt is ok, but it’s really below the lower limit, and runs a lot it could cause damage(that’s why there is a limit, due to over/under current damage). I’m willing to bet money that I ran it below the limit for a while and somehow that screwed it up from running out of range. ********
 
4 years is about what I would expect cell life to be from a 40K cell in a 20K pool in your area.

Cells have a 8,000 to 10,000 hour generating life. If you calculate the generating hours over 4 years you get around that.

I don’t think you did anything to screw up your cell life.
 
4 years is about what I would expect cell life to be from a 40K cell in a 20K pool in your area.

Cells have a 8,000 to 10,000 hour generating life. If you calculate the generating hours over 4 years you get around that.

I don’t think you did anything to screw up your cell life.
Perhaps this is the culprit. No visible corrosion, but the terminal pins have a little play, one move around like it isn’t connected to anything at all
 

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Perhaps this is the culprit. No visible corrosion, but the terminal pins have a little play, one move around like it isn’t connected to anything at all.

Yup, that is the typical failure mode as the pin corrodes from the plate as it wears

1625348695352-png.351751



 
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I'm in need for one for one of my pools which 5 years old. 121 and 120 are the error codes. Pulled off the top connector and didn't look bad, any advice on the diagnosis would be appreciated.
Which SWG do you have?
 

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Yup, that is the typical failure mode as the pin corrodes from the plate as it wears

1625348695352-png.351751



I’m curious if anyone has ever attempted a repair of one of these. I have no clue how to get it apart without breaking, but found that an outboard pin is what has separated from the plate. Looks like a clean disconnect, and thought perhaps it could be soldered back and kept as a spare. I did get my new one and it’s working perfect
 
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