Jandy OneTouch display

Sep 3, 2014
9
Laguna Hills
TFP experts,
I was having some issues with my onetouch sending commands to the brains of my pool system and realized the wiring used was not good, so I replaced the wiring to the proper speck. Low and behold it all started working perfectly!

To complicate things, when I was putting the onetouch back into the wall, the onetouch fell and hit the ground damaging the screen (it no longer displays data) but the controller still works as I can go in and change settings.

Is there a place that replaces the screen or does anyone know what screen is used where I could try and replace it? I called Jandy and they only sell the unit minus the case for around 500, and screens are pretty cheap.

Any thoughts/recommendations on how I can replace this?
 
There is a company that repairs Jandy boards called BP Electronics. Click Here for their website. I would email them and describe the issue. They are very responsive, I got reply in less than 24 hrs. Typical cost for repair of a totally fried board is $150 and takes 2 days plus shipping. The tech that does the work is a person that did much of the original design. He also repairs other brands.

Chris
 
  • Like
Reactions: hollapm
I've been searching eBay and they've all been MUCH more than 125 ;-(

upper 4's is the best I have seen

Yeah you gotta keep up on it. Mine actually was not listed very well so look for alternate ways to list. My was listed as "JANDY Aqualink one touch key pad". Most list it as "Onetouch" and the like. So be persistent in your searches and when you see one, jump on it.
 
There is a company that repairs Jandy boards called BP Electronics. Click Here for their website. I would email them and describe the issue. They are very responsive, I got reply in less than 24 hrs. Typical cost for repair of a totally fried board is $150 and takes 2 days plus shipping. The tech that does the work is a person that did much of the original design. He also repairs other brands.

Chris
I reached out and he's not able to assist ?
Said that "OneTouch LCD is not a repairable/replaceable item."
 
You might try offering $75 for the below. And looking at the prices of these I am thinking I got a straight up steal on mine.

 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Most anything is repairable if you can find the right parts :) I've sourced displays for intellitouch indoor panels, so I'm hoping these are available too. Can you take a picture of the board/display? If we can get some numbers on it that might help find a replacement display.

I've never seen of these units but I found a picture online and it looks like it shows 12 chars x 16 chars??, with a 5x7 font - so each char is 8x6 dots. That gives us a display with 96x96 dots. If my silly guess is anywhere close, that's a pretty common configuration... what size is the display diagonally? measure the length/width of the entire display module AND the diagonal size of the actual display area.

btw @PoolGate - good find on that parts unit. That LCD might actually be ok if the rust is just on the retaining bracket

Tom
 
Most anything is repairable if you can find the right parts :) I've sourced displays for intellitouch indoor panels, so I'm hoping these are available too. Can you take a picture of the board/display? If we can get some numbers on it that might help find a replacement display.

I've never seen of these units but I found a picture online and it looks like it shows 12 chars x 16 chars??, with a 5x7 font - so each char is 8x6 dots. That gives us a display with 96x96 dots. If my silly guess is anywhere close, that's a pretty common configuration... what size is the display diagonally? measure the length/width of the entire display module AND the diagonal size of the actual display area.

btw @PoolGate - good find on that parts unit. That LCD might actually be ok if the rust is just on the retaining bracket

Tom
I'm attaching a few photos of the unit and can take more.
The glass size is around 3 1/8 x 2 5/16 and the LCD portion is around 2 15/16 x 2 3/16
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190905_181048.jpg
    IMG_20190905_181048.jpg
    257 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_20190905_181033.jpg
    IMG_20190905_181033.jpg
    269.1 KB · Views: 12
  • IMG_20190905_180947.jpg
    IMG_20190905_180947.jpg
    188.1 KB · Views: 14
  • IMG_20190905_180941.jpg
    IMG_20190905_180941.jpg
    296.5 KB · Views: 13
You might try offering $75 for the below. And looking at the prices of these I am thinking I got a straight up steal on mine.

Can the LCD panel be removed from that unit? The ribbon cable appears to be taped to the board on mine???
 
Can the LCD panel be removed from that unit? The ribbon cable appears to be taped to the board on mine???

I have no idea. For $75 might be worth a shot. What other Aqualink interfaces do you have? Do you have the phone app interface? PDA? If you have another method, you might want to just live without the OneTouch.
 
Ugh, it appears that removing the LCD from that board is going to be difficult... the LCD they used doesn't have a built-in controller (which is pretty common), so there are connections for each row and column of the LCD. The way they attached these row/column connections is not good...

The column connector is the rubber "elastomeric strip" under the smashed glass bit - that part is easy to change. But the row connector is the flexible cable thing that is soldered to the board (there are 96 rows). I was hoping they'd have used another elastomeric strip there too, but it's been soldered to the board. I've never tried to resolder those row/col connections - there's probably someone who can, but it might not be worth the cost :(
 
I have no idea. For $75 might be worth a shot. What other Aqualink interfaces do you have? Do you have the phone app interface? PDA? If you have another method, you might want to just live without the OneTouch.
I have a raspberry pi controller connected to the place controller which I can control over the network. The display was an easy way to do this without having to pull out a phone..
 
Ugh, it appears that removing the LCD from that board is going to be difficult... the LCD they used doesn't have a built-in controller (which is pretty common), so there are connections for each row and column of the LCD. The way they attached these row/column connections is not good...

The column connector is the rubber "elastomeric strip" under the smashed glass bit - that part is easy to change. But the row connector is the flexible cable thing that is soldered to the board (there are 96 rows). I was hoping they'd have used another elastomeric strip there too, but it's been soldered to the board. I've never tried to resolder those row/col connections - there's probably someone who can, but it might not be worth the cost :(
Appreciate the feedback. I had never seen this type before, assume it's cheaper to initially do hence the challenge with replacing the screen. I don't mind trying to see if I can resolder it but assume the elastomeric strip can't handle a high heat and would need 96 touch points as well, or 96 solder points?
 
The elastomeric strip doesn't get soldered at all - that's the beauty of it. It's just a bunch of carbon conductors separated by non-conducting rubber at a small enough pitch such that it will only connect the little gold pad on the board to the barely visible "pad" on the bottom of the lcd glass. If you were to take apart an Easytouch LCD, for example, you'd find 2 elastomeric strips whereas your jandy-frankenstein display has a soldered cable AND an elastomer... very strange.

Were you able to find any numbers on that LCD at all? Also, if you have a shot of the back/component side of the board, throw it up here. I'm not sure if that flexy cable is robust enough to handle being soldered.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.