Jandy LXI - FAULT- CHECK IGN CONTROL - Appreciate help!

swamprat69

Well-known member
Mar 30, 2019
355
Las Vegas, NV
At this point attempting to repair safely may be a can of worms. If the water got as high as the circuit boards in the control panel you would need to replace the main circuit board also. The switching relays on the main circuit board may stick in an incorrect position due to corrosion/deterioration. The connections on the power circuit board may fail or burn due to corrosion. If the water got that high it may also effect the blower motor (behind the control panel) even if it is running now, as it is an AO (air over...not a sealed case) motor and water damage even if left to dry long enough for it to run will effect the life of the bearings. Water damage may also effect the life of the burners adversely. Even after replacing the parts needed to run it safely, you may have future failures of other parts due to water damage. I would opt for replacement even though I have access to most parts at wholesale.
 
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setsailsoon

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Andrew,

I'm a diehard DIY repair type and I've been in the gas production business over half my career. I almost never give up on a repair but this is one of those cases I would. I've seen what can happen first-hand with relatively small leaks. It isn't pretty. You've got two techs that are very experienced in this stuff indicating this unit isn't safe even for them to work on. I strongly advise you give up on this unit and go heater shopping.

I wish I had different advice. But that's where I come out on this one. Looking forward to see what you replace it with!

Chris
 
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andrewf

Member
Oct 27, 2020
16
Houston
I cannot believe how active, patient and responsive you guys are on this forum. It's not only impressive. It's awesome! I wish that you guys were available for all my DIY projects!

Do you recommend a pool heater by chance? Having a hard time finding a direct replacement for the Jandy LXI i400. The previous owners went overkill on a lot of things for this house, wondering if that's the case for the pool heater too because the pool is pretty small with a connected hot tub. It's about 16 x 21 in size (5ft deepest), reading that a 250k to 300k should work.
 
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setsailsoon

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Andrew,

Great choice you're making. I don't think I've ever seen @swamprat69 and @Pool Clown recommend to give up on the same heater. In fact, it's rare that either of them say that.

Experts on here recommend Raypak a lot. The more I learned about heaters, it looks like they're all very similar. There are some very expensive models that are a little more efficient but I don't think they'd ever pay out at current gas prices. I have a Jandy right now but I'd probably switch to a Pentair brand just because I'm a little biased toward them. If I were you I'd just look for the best sale prices. Barring another flood your heater should last a very long time with only minor repairs and good water balance. I've abused the heck out of mine and see no impending reasons it won't last another 5+ years. With experts like we have here I'm sure I can keep it running quite a while longer.

Can you please add your signature? It really helps our experts be more efficient with their volunteer time. Here's how to do it.

Good luck and please to keep us posted on your selection.

Chris
 
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andrewf

Member
Oct 27, 2020
16
Houston
Andrew,

Great choice you're making. I don't think I've ever seen @swamprat69 and @Pool Clown recommend to give up on the same heater. In fact, it's rare that either of them say that.

Experts on here recommend Raypak a lot. The more I learned about heaters, it looks like they're all very similar. There are some very expensive models that are a little more efficient but I don't think they'd ever pay out at current gas prices. I have a Jandy right now but I'd probably switch to a Pentair brand just because I'm a little biased toward them. If I were you I'd just look for the best sale prices. Barring another flood your heater should last a very long time with only minor repairs and good water balance. I've abused the heck out of mine and see no impending reasons it won't last another 5+ years. With experts like we have here I'm sure I can keep it running quite a while longer.

Can you please add your signature? It really helps our experts be more efficient with their volunteer time. Here's how to do it.

Good luck and please to keep us posted on your selection.

Chris
Will do.

Checking out the Raypaks and Pentairs now.

Appreciate the help and have a good weekend.
 
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setsailsoon

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Andrew,

Great choice and nice job. A couple items to check that I can't see are:
  • make sure you bubble check all gas connections for leaks.
  • have a dirt trap in the gas line as close as practical to the heater.
  • be sure to re-connect the bonding wire.
I hope the heater serves you well for many years!

Chris
 
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andrewf

Member
Oct 27, 2020
16
Houston
Andrew,

Great choice and nice job. A couple items to check that I can't see are:
  • make sure you bubble check all gas connections for leaks.
  • have a dirt trap in the gas line as close as practical to the heater.
  • be sure to re-connect the bonding wire.
I hope the heater serves you well for many years!

Chris
Yep, the bonding wire is on the right side and connected. Have a minor leak in the pvc pipe so using Flex Seal, which is the best info-mercial item out there.

Definitely planning on using the water/soap trick on the gas.

Thanks for the tips and looking it over.

Have a good one!
 

andrewf

Member
Oct 27, 2020
16
Houston
Well, some things can never be easy I guess. I’ve waited for the piping to dry, tested for any gas leaks and tried to turn it on last night. The pilot won’t light. I took a video:

It keeps trying and ends up with ignition failure. 🤦🏻‍♂️
My initial thought would be to disconnect the gas pipe to make sure gas is coming through. Can you manually light the pilot? There are numerous warnings saying not to.
Thanks.
 

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setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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I don't hear the gas valve relay click open. Does that happen before the video? If it does, check the gas supply all the way back to the meter. Any valves unintentionally closed?
 

andrewf

Member
Oct 27, 2020
16
Houston
I don't hear the gas valve relay click open. Does that happen before the video? If it does, check the gas supply all the way back to the meter. Any valves unintentionally closed?
I checked and it looks like the gas was shut off down at the line. I’ve since turned it on and waited a few minutes. Still hasn’t lit.
 

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ajw22

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Jul 21, 2013
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Northern NJ
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Keep trying. It can take 10 - 20 start tries to purge air from the line until gas is flowing. Or get a gas guy to purge air from the line.

The heater will try 3 times to start then throw a fault. Keep on resetting it and trying again.
 

Pool Clown

In The Industry
Sep 5, 2008
2,184
Silicon Valley, CA
Think about this...

You have what looks like about 2 feet of 3/4" gas line from the heater to the shutoff valve. When you try to light the heater, the pilot valve opens and i.e. begins to purge out the air in that line through the pilot assembly. Did i mention that the orifice in the pilot is about as big as a pin hole?

Is going to take a while, be patient.
 

setsailsoon

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Oct 25, 2015
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Stuart/FL
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I checked and it looks like the gas was shut off down at the line.
Are you talking about the 1/4 turn ball valve with the red handle in the photo or one further down that is not shown. If it's the one in the photo it can be purged by many start cycles (and I do mean many as indicated by others). If it's way down the line closer to the meter you will need to have the line purged. This should only be performed by an experienced gas plumber.

Chris