I get "Check IGN Steps" on the display and one flashing red LED on the ignition which seems to indicate "air flow fault". I checked the tubes and made sure no obstructions and the air flow sensor clicks when blown into. No obstructions on the blower black plastic housing either. I wiggled all the connections and nothing ever changes. Checked the ground seems good. Weird thing is I do hear some slight gurgling and it seems there is some water coming out of the air flow outlet/inlet on the fan. There is slight fan noise and very little air coming out and it never attempts to ignite as far as I can tell. My fear may be a failed heat exchanger.
Jandy JXI Heater Problems
- Thread starter Timbolton
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,469
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
@setsailsoon @ps0303 @Pool Clown @swamprat69 may have ideas how to tackle your problem.
Sounds to me like you need to dig deeper into the heater and determine where the water in the fan is coming from.
How old is the heater?
@setsailsoon @ps0303 @Pool Clown @swamprat69 may have ideas how to tackle your problem.
Sounds to me like you need to dig deeper into the heater and determine where the water in the fan is coming from.
How old is the heater?
Thank you for your reply. Yes I hope someone might give me some hints. I really have no idea how old it is. Would it have a mfg date somewhere or be associated with a serial number? I moved into the house 2 years ago and it was here. I only determined maybe it is a failed heat exchanger maybe after doing everything else from this video I found which seemed to describe what I was dealing with the water coming out of the blower.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,206
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Sounds like you may have a tube failure. I would remove the igniter and put a wooden dip stick in the fire box to see if you have water in there. If so you have a tube failure. If this is a tube failure the tube bundle is replaced as a complete bundle. The part is the most expensive single part in the heater and if you buy online and do it yourself there is no warranty. It will cost about $1000.. If you do it through an authorized repair service it will cost the same as a new heater. Tough situation. I'm switching everything to Pentair but unfortunately all heater manufacturers reduce warranties on heater to very short time for DIY. Way shorter than it takes for manufacturing defects to show up. The only way to do this DIY is to take your chance on manufacturing quality and rationalize that getting a warranty costs as much as a spare heater... wish it weren't so.
Chris
Chris
Thank you or your response. I'm pretty sure this is what I will find based on what I have seen so far. Is there any links or documentation on replacing the tube bundle? I havent checked for water yet inside (will do when it is light out again) but I suspect there will be.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,206
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Yes, I believe there are several but I can't seem to easily find them now. It's been over a year since I disassembled mine and it's not really that hard. Just be patient, you'll have to remove the top and side cabinet panels plus the main water in and out. It seems most of the circular tube arrangement heaters are the same internally so a video for a similar Pentair or Hayward will be very similar to yours. You don't need to disassemble the fan and other parts on top of the heater box other than the igniter. It's very fragile so I'd remove it first and set it in a safe place. If you tap it lightly on anything it will crack. You will need to remove several wires that connect back to the control board and heater valve to get them out of the way. Just take a photo to be sure you know which goes where to reassemble. Carefully disassemble the gas union. It's easy to accidentally pull the air tube off on the bottom of the fan which causes problems getting the unit running again. Then remove the ring clamp and pick the whole lid off in one piece after you disconnect the gas pipe union. You'll need an insulation kit since the water will destroy most of the insulation pad on the bottom. The new bundle comes with new o-rings. Depending on how deep the water got you may need to clean the burner assembly thoroughly to make sure none of the fine mesh holes are plugged. If you need to do this it may be easier if you just set it back on top of a small trash can. When you get the manifold off take a photo of the tubes and post it here. If they are protruding normally you probably had a mechanical failure and not a chemical balance issue. Most of the videos I watched it was pretty obvious when it's a chemical problem.
Good luck, please post video and photos as you go.
Chris
Good luck, please post video and photos as you go.
Chris
If I go through this process would a Versaflow be a good idea to not be constantly running water through the heater? I suspect probably.
- Oct 25, 2015
- 5,206
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I've been running mine over 6 years with not versaflow. Versaflow reduces pressure drop in the system when you're running without the heater, don't think it does anything related to corrosion. Pool chemistry is by far the most significant way to reduce corrosion. Stay within TFP ranges and keep an eye on your CSI calculation.