Jandy Jxi CHECK IGN STEPS error

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setsailsoon

setsailsoon

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TFP Guide
Oct 25, 2015
5,200
Palm City/FL
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Folks,

I've had this weird error about once per year from my heater during the ignition sequence. The start sequence almost completes going through spinning up the fan and heating up the ignighter then there's this loud buzz and it stops the cycle. This cycle repeats 3 times then I get the above error. I traced this using the trouble shooting guide to the air pressure sensor. Removing the yellow wire from the air pressure sensor and replacing it solves the issue. The contacts are in good shape with no visible corrosion, air tubes are in great shape still flexible, no cracks and snug fit. Last year I applied corrosion inhibitor to this connection and it lasted about a year. Is this an annual problem for others? Is there a better fix out there? Naturally this only happens when I have a sore back and really look forward to a hot spa with bubbles! So instead I'm removing the top and bending over the heater to repair it. Aggravating!

Chris
 
I can't speak for is this is a common issue or not as I haven't seen or heard of such. So you disconnect the wire from the air flow switch and put it back on and the units fires up OK?
 
Did you remove the switch and blow out the sense lines (tubing) and try to drain anything I that may be in the case out? When it's intermittent like that, it's usually something blocking or partially blocking one of the tubes at the end. It could also be a tiny bit of condensation against the diaphragm.
 
Yes, exactly and it fires up normally after that.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks Dave. I did remove the sensing lines to check them but I removed the wire first and replaced it first and the unit ran fine after that. The sensing lines were in good shape and looked dry inside. I'll try blowing through them before I button the top back up today.

Chris

- - - Updated - - -

Paul,

Well didn't remove the switch just removed the yellow wire then reinstalled it on the terminal.

Chris
 
We had this issue with our Jandy heater. Our installer could not find anything wrong with the unit, so he surmised it was caused by insufficient gas pressure. We called the gas company, they installed a larger meter (for free), and the problem never recurred.
 
rockaloka said:
I am having the same problem. Jandy tech came out and the heater fired up. Then it worked for 2 months and now will not fire up. Heater is one year old.
Click to expand...


I went through exactly the same thing. In my case it was the sensor connection on the blower intake. During the start sequence wiggle the wires one at a time. It will start when you find the oxidized connection. Then I wire brushed the terminal as well as the connector and soaked each with Corrosion Block. Been a little over a year and it has worked flawlessly. Just used it tonight... back and knee issues so I do low impact work-out in the pool followed by hot spa.

If it's not a connection, it's most likely one of the sensors. If it was the gas pressure it would try to light then go off on low pressure in my opinion.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 

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Having the same problem. Installed winter of 2015. In the fall of 2016, heater failed. PB came out and ( I think) replaced a circuit board. Worked until yesterday. Same error. PB is coming out again to check. But this is the last year of warranty.

When he fixes the problem this time what preventative maintenance can I do?
 
Sorry for the delay, don't know if you still need this but here's what I did:


  1. Disconnect power at the breaker. This was done for safety and to be sure wires didn't accidentally come loose and short out which could short out electrical components
  2. Removed the cover and set it aside with power disconnected at the breaker.
  3. Carefully check to be sure no wires came loose and reconnect if they did. Reset breaker and allow the RS 12 to power up.
  4. Start the heater at it's control panel.
  5. The ignition sequence begins and when fan starts watch the sight glass on the igniter until it turns red indicating that the start sequence is ready to light the heater.
  6. CAREFULLY wiggle the connectors on the sensors until you hear a relay click in the gas valve and the heater lights off. This identifies the bad connection.
  7. If you run out of time before the controls time out shut down and repeat until all the wires are checked.
  8. In my case it was the sensor connections on the sensor mounted close to the blower motor that has a soft rubber hose connecting tube. I cleaned and then added Corrosion Block. Plus to be sure I didn't have the problem on other connections I did this to all other connections. No failures in a little over 1 year so far.

If this sounds like Greek to you don't try it. You need to be very familiar with safety requirements for working on 220v power to attempt this. Even if you don't get electrocuted it is easy to cause damage that will not be covered by warranty. It be much cheaper and safer to get a qualified technician to help you.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
setsailsoon said:
Sorry for the delay, don't know if you still need this but here's what I did:


  1. Disconnect power at the breaker. This was done for safety and to be sure wires didn't accidentally come loose and short out which could short out electrical components
  2. Removed the cover and set it aside with power disconnected at the breaker.
  3. Carefully check to be sure no wires came loose and reconnect if they did. Reset breaker and allow the RS 12 to power up.
  4. Start the heater at it's control panel.
  5. The ignition sequence begins and when fan starts watch the sight glass on the igniter until it turns red indicating that the start sequence is ready to light the heater.
  6. CAREFULLY wiggle the connectors on the sensors until you hear a relay click in the gas valve and the heater lights off. This identifies the bad connection.
  7. If you run out of time before the controls time out shut down and repeat until all the wires are checked.
  8. In my case it was the sensor connections on the sensor mounted close to the blower motor that has a soft rubber hose connecting tube. I cleaned and then added Corrosion Block. Plus to be sure I didn't have the problem on other connections I did this to all other connections. No failures in a little over 1 year so far.

If this sounds like Greek to you don't try it. You need to be very familiar with safety requirements for working on 220v power to attempt this. Even if you don't get electrocuted it is easy to cause damage that will not be covered by warranty. It be much cheaper and safer to get a qualified technician to help you.

I hope this helps.

Chris
The Jandy rep came out and we tried to wiggle the wires but could not get the heater to fire up. He checked the gas pressure and noticed that there was a spike in pressure and then it would come down to 9.7. Then the heater fired up . After 3 tries the heater would not fire up. Could the gas valve be bad? Or the regulator? I am at a loss.
Click to expand...
 
rockaloka said:
The tech could not find the corroded wire. He also checked the inlet gas but not the outlet. I had the heat and air guy come out and he found the inlet and outlet for gas and the numbers were fine. Could it be the gas pressure valve?
Click to expand...

So the person checked the pressure of the gas before the heaters gas valve and then on the manifold side of the gas valve and the pressures were in range?
 
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