Jandy AquaPure Question

[ChrisDK]

Our Jandy AquaPure PLC1400 was flashing the service light yesterday with a 145 code, which means salinity was too high. I checked salinity via the unit and it read at 4.5gpl...should be below 4.0gpl and operating range is 3.0 to 3.6gpl. I drained off 2" of pool water and added fresh water and the salinity dropped to 3.8gpl and the unit resumed normal operation.

Came out this morning just to check the unit and service light was back on...salinity reading was back up to 4.4gpl. No one touched the pool yesterday or today other than me dropping the water level 2" and adding in fresh water. Pump has been running 12 hours a day. No wild swings in temperature either. I don't have a standalone salinity test so I can't confirm the readings from the SWG.

Is this probably just a bad or dirty sensor in the unit? Assuming the reading is correct, what could cause the salinity to rise like that?

Thanks,

Chris

 

[mknauss]

Can you test the actual salinity? The Taylor K1766 test kit is a necessary item for a SWCG pool.

Jandy AquaPure SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ajw22]

Our Jandy AquaPure PLC1400 was flashing the service light yesterday with a 145 code, which means salinity was too high. I checked salinity via the unit and it read at 4.5gpl...should be below 4.0gpl and operating range is 3.0 to 3.6gpl. I drained off 2" of pool water and added fresh water and the salinity dropped to 3.8gpl and the unit resumed normal operation.

For the salt to drop from 4.5 to 3.8 you would need to drain off 15% of your water. I doubt 2" drained 15% of your pool volume.

Came out this morning just to check the unit and service light was back on...salinity reading was back up to 4.4gpl. No one touched the pool yesterday or today other than me dropping the water level 2" and adding in fresh water. Pump has been running 12 hours a day. No wild swings in temperature either. I don't have a standalone salinity test so I can't confirm the readings from the SWG.

Is this probably just a bad or dirty sensor in the unit? Assuming the reading is correct, what could cause the salinity to rise like that?

What I think happened is you added fresh water to the top of your pool. Your water was stratified with higher salinity water at the bottom. Your skimmer was pulling lower salinity water from the surface.

It took a day for all the water to totally mix and show the actual salinity.

You need to drain about 4,000 gallons to lower the salinity by 20%.

 

[JamesW]

You need an accurate test kit to measure the salinity.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

tftestkits.net

You can make it work by lowering the reading to 3.9 gpl, but you should verify the actual salinity with the K-1766 and recalibrate to match when the kit comes in.

Press the “Salinity” button and hold it until it beeps 3 times.

The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds.

Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen.

The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading.

When the proper reading is reached press the “Temperature” button within 5 seconds to store it in memory.

 

[ChrisDK]

Thanks to all for the replies...makes sense. Before I start draining more water I will try to scare up a salinity test kit to see what the actual numbers are and will recalibrate if necessary. It just had me puzzled that the salinity would start going back up again...but the water stratification makes perfect sense. Thanks again!

 

[ChrisDK]

Just a follow-up question...I obtained a test kit and tested the salinity of the pool and it came back as around 3700ppm so I recalibrated the SWG (thanks JamesW for those instructions!) to same and it started running again. Next day I came out and checked on the SWG and the service light was back on and SWG reported salinity as 4.1. I tested the pool again just to be sure and it was still close to 3700ppm. Is this perhaps a bad sensor in the SWG, or does it need cleaning, or both? Thanks.

 

[JamesW]

How old is the system?

Here is a test you can do to diagnose the trisensor.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the board is O.K.

If the readings are different, then it indicates that there is a problem with the board.

 

[P0oLN0ob]

How old is the system?

Here is a test you can do to diagnose the trisensor.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the board is O.K.

If the readings are different, then it indicates that there is a problem with the board.

and if the tests come back positive and the board is ok, you might need to replace your tri-sensor.

 

[ChrisDK]

Thanks, I will give that a try! The unit was installed last September.