Jandy AquaPure 0% over winter

[zac280]

My plan for winter was to keep the pump running, vacuum as needed, and add chlorine and acid by hand. I turned the Jandy SWG down to 0%, since I see no option in iAqualink to just turn it off. After a while, it showed "Low salt" but I wasn't worried because I'd ramp everything back up in the spring. Now it's showing error 144, which seems just mean really low salt. Is this a problem? Do I need to go ahead and add salt?

The manual says they sell a Spool Piece to replace the SWG in winter. Should I get this?

edit: Wow, it's over $100 for essentially a piece of plumbing: Amazon.com : Zodiac SP3P 3-Port Spool Piece and Cleaning Replacement Kit for Zodiac PureLink Water Purification System : Swimming Pool Chlorine Alternatives : Garden & Outdoor

Anyone rig their own dummy spool?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Zac,

Just ignore the cell during the winter. I never add salt based on what the cell says, unless I know the "actual" salt level using the Taylor K-1766 salt test kit.

On my pool I just turn off the circuit breaker that just controls the SWCG's power supply. It just bugs me to see the error codes, so I just shut if off by removing the power.

Once the water starts to stay above about 55 degrees, I then add any salt, if needed, and turn the SWCG back on.

I too found the price for the cell replacement "tube" to be not worth it, and just leave my cell in place.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[setsailsoon]

Zac,

We don't get the cold temps you have but if I did I'd do what Jim said above. The problem with just making your own tube is the threads are not the kind you can find readily at a big box store. Plus the only time it was really used was during installation. It's much lighter than the cell so made plumbing easier. Using TFP recommendations I've never had to clean my cell so far (1 year of operation). I did inspect it and the cell surfaces looked brand new. I do watch CSI fairly close and keep it within TFP recommendations which is pretty easy if all the other readings are maintained.

Chris

 

[zac280]

Thanks Jim, I didn't think about there being a separate breaker for the SWG as it wasn't labeled in my box, but that did the trick. I was about to just break down and add salt as the new 144 error was causing a beep every few minutes which I could hear in the house.

Chris, good to hear about the cell staying clean. This is my first year so I'll check it, but I've been staying on top of my levels too so it'd be nice to not have to remove it yet. Or do you have to remove the cell to inspect it, or is just checking the sensor good enough?

 

[setsailsoon]

Thanks Jim, I didn't think about there being a separate breaker for the SWG as it wasn't labeled in my box, but that did the trick. I was about to just break down and add salt as the new 144 error was causing a beep every few minutes which I could hear in the house.

Chris, good to hear about the cell staying clean. This is my first year so I'll check it, but I've been staying on top of my levels too so it'd be nice to not have to remove it yet. Or do you have to remove the cell to inspect it, or is just checking the sensor good enough?

Zac,

You don't have to remove the cell to check it unless something is wrong with operation or you get an error message. I was just curious. Also, don't be surprised if your cell eventually reports low salt. Many salt cells eventually will report low salt erroneously because their sensor is not as accurate as the test. It's not uncommon for them to be off by 500 ppm or more. Use the K-1766 salt test that Jim recommended. It the easiest drop test in the world with an extremely quick and affirmative color change. It comes with enough reagents to last for years if stored properly. I initially started a salt level low in the recommended range and got the low salt light in a few months. Called the manufacturer (Circupool) and they said the cell is set internally to have a 700 ppm range before it stops generating because of the known inaccuracy. So they don't stop it from generating chlorine 'till it's 700 ppm below the minimum. I got tired of looking at the low salt light so I just brought it up to the mid point of recommended range based on K1766 test and the light went out.

Chris

 

[JamesW]

There's a setting on the circuit board that you can shut off the beep if you ever want to.