Jandy Aqualink RS Issues

KMShaw

0
Jun 19, 2018
10
Valencia/Ca
About a week ago my Aqualink RS8 started displaying a message saying “air sensor opened”. I assumed I had a bad air sensor and installed a new one. Unfortunately, that did not solve my problem. I then switched the air sensor with the water sensor and it was reading the current air temp on the water display. That is telling me both my sensors are good.

I assumed I had a bad board and I was going to pull it out and send it to BP electronics. Lots of people on this forum have great things to say about him. For $150 it seems like a no brainer.

I was trying to figure out a way to be able to manually run my filter while the board is out for repair. I was poking around with my meter to see the low-voltage that is required to engage the pump relay. I didn’t have anything plugged into aux 7, so I went in the house turned on aux 7 and measured the voltage. It read 33.5 VDC. Here’s the part where my story goes downhill…

As I was removing my meter probes from aux 7, I must’ve touched and shorted the two pins together for a fraction of a second. Well…. Every single relay immediately engaged and now everything on my pool runs even in service mode. I manually shut the breakers off for all the different pieces of pool equipment. So for now, I’m just turning the pump breaker on in the morning and off in the afternoon. I also unplugged the low voltage wires to all the relays so they are not engaged 24/7.

Being much more careful this time, I checked the voltage at every single aux connector and they are all putting out 33.5 VDC no mater the configuration of any of the buttons. With the exception of aux 7, which is putting out zero. I have checked the fuse on the back of the board and it is good. Here’s the crazy part… Guess what’s working now? If you guessed air sensor, you would be right. Most of the functions on the board seem to be working properly. I can put it into spa mode and the JVA’s will turn, I can turn on the heater. Right now, the only issue seems to be every single aux connector is putting out voltage when it shouldn’t be.

Anybody have any thoughts, or should I just send the board to BP electronics?

Thanks
 
Have you powered down the Aqualink for over 5 minutes to reset the microprocessor?
 
Are you still under warranty? If not, I believe this is what you need. Somebody else could confirm. Not a bad price if that is all the damage done.

 
ChristopherDB, that is a tremendously good price for the board, but will only work if KMShaw has the same 50-pin style where the actual processor is on a daughter board and can be installed on the new board. It depends on how old his current system is.
 
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