It's a new year and I have the same problems. Please help.

Jump to latest Follow Reply
@cowboycasey: How long is the cable that goes from the cell to the control unit? The other unit I was looking at said it was 15 ft.

I had posted pictures last night that probably cover your questions on my current setup here:

http://imgur.com/a/i3L3Q

This does not include the heat siphon Z575HC heat pump that is on order. That will change my setup and I'm hoping to have my electrician do both the heat pump and SWG install at the same time. I have a single post with a subpanel on it now with several outlets on that post for the pool. Your setup is nicer with the cover. I was thinking of asking for a 2nd post and then building/constructing something to be over the control module. My yard has little tree coverage so direct sun exposure (south facing back yard) would be an issue without putting something over it.

I also had a question on the installation of this SJ40 unit you are suggesting. In the manual posted here: http://www.circupool.com/downloads/sj_20150516.pdf

They say this: The cell must be oriented horizontally with ports facing down. The cell should be located above the highest plumbing point, and raised at least 6" from the return line.

I read this to say for my setup, I would need to have the cell plumbed/located 6" above my return hole in the side of the pool. Obviously the plumbing will change from my current flexible hoses to something new with the heat pump install, so I just wanted to make sure I understand what they are saying. Take a look at my current pics and validate my thought if you don't mind.

Thanks..


 
I agree that I need to do that, but I have a contractor coming to do electrical and plumbing for the pool heat pump next week, and I'd prefer to rip out the current permasalt and have the SWG installed during that same job rather than come back again to replumb and rewire electrical. I'm ok pushing out the install to get the pool chemistry under control first, but if the permasalt is truly junk, I don't really want to pay someone to re-install it with the heat pump.
 
Can you clarify what you want turned off for me? Do you mean don't turn on the SWG until the water chemistry is correct?

The SWG install guide lists the water conditions they suggest before install, so I would like help (after I get the real test kit) to get to that point.
 
Yes I'm going to follow the guidelines, I was just mentioning the install guide had suggested water state before you turn it on. I just don't want to break the SWG. I'm open to what conditions I need from this group instead of the manual.

Speaking of guidelines, I've added the 1/2 gallon of liquid shock. What else should I try until the test kit arrives? Should I try to raise the PH with the pool calc as mentioned earlier?
 
I think it is about 8 feet, maybe 10 on the length, from your setup you should have no issues..

If you look at my install, I did like 14 inches up ( I did that so I could use union's and if the cell ever needed replaced i could do it easily) but you only need 6 inches rise, all it takes is a 90 degree going up into the bottom of the cell and then a 90 degree going back down.

My setup is above the pump outlet and filter outlet but not above my pool water nor my skimmer, and it works just fine :)

the way your pipe is now will change because of the heater and SWG, they should have no issues plumbing and wiring it up... remember the SWG is the last thing going to the pool return, so it will come from skimmer, to pump, to filter, to heater then to SWG, to return in pool.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Yes it has powder R-0870 DPD Powder.

I'm looking at the instructions on the top of the case. I could use some advice on the Free & Combines Chlorine test. It says to rinse and fill large comparator tube to desired mark with water to be tested. What is the desired mark? I see lines at 10, 25, and 44. I'll start the other tests now and check back on this one.
 
to do the FC/CC test, add water to the 10ml line, add a heaping scoop of powder (taylor instructions say 2 level scoops, but one heaping works). swirl to mix, (speed stir comes in really handy for this step). If solution turns pink/red you have FC, now add a drop of R-0871 and swirl to mix (drops should be added with bottle completely inverted, slowly squeeze bottle without shaking it until it drops off on its own) continue adding (and counting) drops and swirling (did I mention the speed stir) until the solution turns clear. Multiply the number of drops by .5 to get your FC number. now add 5 drops of R-0003, and swirl to mix. if the solution turns pink, you have some CC, start adding drops of R-0871 in the same fashion as the first part of the test and multiply the number of drops by .5 to get your CC number.
 
thanks for instructions.. here is what I wrote down. I could not do the salt test as the vial mentioned on the cover was not in my kit. Is that correct?

Ph: lighter than 7.0
- added 14 drops of R-0006 to get to a 7.6 color

Alk: 180
Calc Hard: 450 (purple at 35 drops, blue at 45)
CYA: Less than 30 (filled vial to top, dot visible still)
Free test: FC = .5 CC = .55

Be back in a few.. need to get my daughter at the bus.
 
Busy day huh? :) Based on those K-2006 results:
- Add stabilizer to increase CYA to at least 30 ppm. The fact you saw the dot all the way to the top means it may be closer to zero. So definitely add some.
- Use some borax or soda ash to raise pH to the mid 7s. Too low and it becomes corrosive.
- Increase FC to about 5ppm and watch it closely over the weekend. The stabilizer should help, but if the FC disappears too fast each day, let us know.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply