It's a new year and I have the same problems. Please help.

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You just need to raise the salt and CYA levels. No need to worry about the CSI if all else is in range.

You are going to want to try to get the TA down by keeping the pH in range.
 
That is what I was thinking from the articles I read here. How do you suggest I go about this Jbizzle? Do I need to wait for the FC to drop more first? Acid lowers PH and TA. How much should I put in or how do I set it up via pool calc?

I'd like some advice on aeration too. I've never really had much luck with aiming my return jet to ripple the water for this. My current circulator already does this twice on each rotation. I also have a night time floating fountain that sucks water from the pool and shoots it into the air about 8-12" if I remember right.

Does order matter? I'd think I'd want to lower the TA then get PH right first? Then add salt and finally CYA? Any recommendations on type of salt?
 
I've been running my circupool sj-40 for a just over a week now and I have some questions / problems I'm curious about. When I first started the system the cell had a bunch of bubbles in it. Now I have white and blue buildup inside the cell and instead of bubbles I see more like whisps of white stuff. We have been using the pool and it seems fine. The water isn't crystal clear but is good. I'm not sure if the salt system puts white bubbles into the water.

Here are my current test results:

Salt: 3200
FC: 9
CC: .5
PH: 7.6
TA: 200
CH: 150
CYA: 80

The suggested water levels in the circupool manual are:

FC: 1-3
Salt: 3000-5000
Ph: 7.2 - 7.8
TA: 200
CH: 200-400
CYA: 50-75
Saturation Index: -0.2 to +0.2

I believe the FC is too high. I originally ran it at 75% as the manual stated and my FC rose. I backed it down to 50% and it still was high. I went to 25% and ran overnight and noticed it had stopped (no activity in cell) and the service light was lit on the control panel. If I bump it up to 50% or higher the unit runs. At 25% it throws the light and stops. Even at 50% my FC keeps increasing.

Here is a video of the cell running at 50% level:

Sj40 cell buildup - YouTube

It sounds like buildup is normal but I'm thinking this is too much for just over a week? What do you suggest? Thanks..
 

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@jblizzle: can you watch the youtube video and let me know if that is normal? There is white and blue build up on the cell after 1 week and it isn't bubbling anymore like it was when I first hooked it up. It is more of a whisp white substance coming from the cell blades. Thanks..
 
jhuehne said:
I've been running my circupool sj-40 for a just over a week now and I have some questions / problems I'm curious about. When I first started the system the cell had a bunch of bubbles in it. Now I have white and blue buildup inside the cell and instead of bubbles I see more like whisps of white stuff. We have been using the pool and it seems fine. The water isn't crystal clear but is good. I'm not sure if the salt system puts white bubbles into the water.

Here are my current test results:

Salt: 3200
FC: 9
CC: .5
PH: 7.6
TA: 200
CH: 150
CYA: 80

The suggested water levels in the circupool manual are:

FC: 1-3
Salt: 3000-5000
Ph: 7.2 - 7.8
TA: 200
CH: 200-400
CYA: 50-75
Saturation Index: -0.2 to +0.2

I believe the FC is too high. I originally ran it at 75% as the manual stated and my FC rose. I backed it down to 50% and it still was high. I went to 25% and ran overnight and noticed it had stopped (no activity in cell) and the service light was lit on the control panel. If I bump it up to 50% or higher the unit runs. At 25% it throws the light and stops. Even at 50% my FC keeps increasing.

Here is a video of the cell running at 50% level:

Sj40 cell buildup - YouTube

It sounds like buildup is normal but I'm thinking this is too much for just over a week? What do you suggest? Thanks..
Click to expand...

That is a pretty blue isn't it :)

The only issue I see is your TA, with your TA at 200 your CSI is at +0.5, if we drop your TA down to 80 it will drop your CSI to -0.46, yes that is a little low but it will help for a little while.. this will also help your PH from rising so fast

you can do 2 things

1. drop your TA, this is a process, do you have a sprinkler or can you make one for the pool, it will go faster
Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity

2. you can take your cell out and scrape of the scale with that piece of wood or a paint stir stick from lowes.

how long are you running your pump? I try to keep my SWG at 50% and then adjust the pump run time down if the FC is high.. (when I first started using it last year I also ran it at 25%) What I noticed last year is the curcupool and really all SWG start out making huge amounts of chlorine and then they slow down to normal...

Mice has started to get some buildup on it as I just raised my CH a little so I could have my TA down at 60, my PH is steady and the SWG is working great...
 
Thanks for the reply.

I wanted to post these #'s before I try to bring down my TA as suggested. I'm not sure if any of this info would change the plan. This is from the pool store that I bought my taylor test kit from. They have a bioguard professional test station? I brought in a sample to see how it compared to my personal tests with the taylor kits I have. Here are the results of their system:

Saturation Index: .4
TDS: 4200
CYA 69
Tot Chlorine: 9.6
Free Chlorine: 9.6
pH: 7.6
Total Alk: 156
Adjust Total Alk: 135
Tot Hardness: 324
Minerals: 2800
Borates: 60
Copper: 0.6
Copper from products: No
Iron: 0.2
Magnases: No
Hazy: No
Cloudy: No
Copper Stain: None
Iron Stain: No
Quat: Not Tested
Green Algae: No
Swampy: No
Black Algae: No
Mustard Algae: No
Slime/Mold: No
Plaster <12: No
Startup: No
Temp <32 : No
CD Sample: Not Tested
CD Standard: Not Tested
CD Test Type: None

Their recommendation was to add 25lbs of salt to the pool. They tested salt at 2800 but my taylor test kit shows 3200 last I tested it which was a few hours before the water test by them. If you think it is a good idea I can buy more salt and add that as well.

My wife and I are going to try the fountain I ordered to aerate with tonight. If this doesn't work this same store had a fountain for $70 that floats in the middle of the pool and hooks to the return. I could also look elsewhere. I'm not that handy, so I doubt I'd do well building one on my own without some assistance.

If you all think the above doesn't change the plan of acid / aerate to lower TA, we will start that tonight on the pool.

Thanks for the guidance!
 
A couple things..
1. I am surprised how close they got to your numbers

2. Your levels of copper and iron, I think that is where your getting the blue colors in the swg.. Do you use sequester for metals

3. They got really close to your CSI

I would still drop your TA... On another note, I am worried about the metals in your water and staining...

I am using my phone so please excuse any spelling errors and short response. :)
 
Sorry, I have been away.. it is used for metals in the water, have you ever used jacks or any AA treatment, I just know about it, not an expert :) here is a post about AA treatments

Ascorbic Acid...confused about sequestrants/cheleating solutions

I would still recommend dropping your TA to 80 to start with and getting your CSI down in the -0.3 range on poolmath
 
I put in the MA earlier today and I'm aerating now with a fountain off the return.

I have not used sequesters. My pool is above ground with vinyl lining. I'm not sure that would apply?

I could get another Culater bag for the skimmer to remove the metals.

I'll work on the TA first.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N915A using Tapatalk
 
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