Issue with Blue Works BLH40

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jayman69

jayman69

Member
Sep 5, 2024
9
Tampa, FL
The unit will only show 20-30% chlorine being produced (on screen) and if I toggle the super chlor button from super chlor to Auto I get the same result. The dial knob doesn't affect this percentage at all. If I switch that button to the off position and then back to super chlor then it goes up to 100% and will stay that way until it cycles the next day. My pool is green unfortunately.

I did take the top control board off to make sure the metal pins joining the 2 boards are clean and intact. I reinstalled and still have the same issue. I believe I need a new top panel. I am outside of my warranty and when looking online all of those boards have the led lights to the right of the dial and not on top of the display screen. It has as the super chlor button that goes horizontally and not vertically like the current ones for sale.

So I need a new top control board (I think) and if the style I have is no longer being sold then I would need a new cover panel to accept the new top display board. Anyone know the part number for the upper control board (the one with the display on it and the LEDS above the display)?
 
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Welcome to TFP! :wave:

Is this the SWG you have?

BLUE WORKS BLH40 Saltwater Generator Chlorinator for 40K Gallon Pool | 2-Year Warranty

Description BLH salt chlorine generator transform salt to chlorine effectively and saftly. The flow sensor can make the flow easy to track. The BLH40 works with your current pump and filtration system to provide you with a safe supply of chlorine to enjoy in your pool daily. The best part about ...
www.blueworkspool.com www.blueworkspool.com

If so, post up the diagnostics from the unit.
How old is the SWG?

You can also contact them thru the link above.
 
That is the one, it is from 2021 so outside of warranty. I have called and emailed. So far they replied to email but not helpful as of yet. As far as diagnostics all of the voltages and numbers (salt, etc) are correct. I have had one cell replaced under warranty and other than that the system has been fine. I am familiar with how it operates and the ranges for everything, just not familiar with what each board does.
 
I am told my panel is the same as the Hayward panel however looking at the two attached you can see the display boards are different due to the LEDs and switch being in a different position
 

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Might have found a few things on the panel, lost power during the storm Debby but only for an hour. It appears 2 items changed- first the salt cell showed f9 and it should be a T15, so I changed that. The 1st display is the salt level and it showed 3400 however the INSTANT feature shows 1700. I just reset the 1st display to the instant display and added in salt. I will allow it to go over night and see if this happens to fix my issues.
 
I would not add salt based on the panel salt readings.

You need to measure the salt using a salt test kit like the Taylor K-1766 - Salt

An aging or failing cell will give incorrect salt readings. Many folks have ended up with too much salt in their pool by following the panel salinity.
 
No worries on the "late" reply - we all get busy and sometimes the forum software doesn't provide a quick notice of a reply.

Don't just blindly add salt based on what the SWG is telling you - test it with a drop based salt test kit like the K-1766.
The SWG is only providing a conductivity test to display a salt reading.
 
You may want to check this video out (and watch it several times). They use the same generic board found in the Blueworks salt system (in this case they are using it in a Hayward controller).

blue works salt generator troubleshooting - Search Videos

www.bing.com www.bing.com

See if that adjusts your duty cycle setting from 20-30% up to 100%.

Keep trying to contact customer service. They are in NC and are likely getting swamped with calls this time of year. Be a squeaky wheel.
 
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I added in just one bag and will test tomorrow with the kit. I appreciate the help. So far adding in one bag has allowed the percentage to go up to 42. I still not not dial that number down (in auto) or up so there may be an issue with the dial itself. Once I get the salt level tomorrow that should identify a few things. I will report back here ( I promise, I hate it when people ask for help and then help is given and then the person never replies back as to whether or not that helped) later tomorrow
 

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jayman69 said:
BTW- the t-15 salt cell is just about 6 months old and has been cleaned within the past 2 weeks. It was not bad when I cleaned it but since I already had it apart I went ahead and did it.
Click to expand...
Cleaned the cell how?

You should not clean the cell with acid unless there is no other wat to remove the scale. Acid removes the rare earths and reduce the life of the cell.

Read SWG How It Works - Further Reading for alternative cleaning methods.
 
Per the salt test with my calibrated meter I am now at 3900ppm which is in tolerance for the generator. I am still only producing (per controller) only 42. When I turn the dial it still doesn't lower or raise that number. I am assuming the dialer on the board is bad. There is a local guy selling aqua rite controllers (reconditioned with warranty) so I am just going to pick up the entire control box and keep this current one as a spare for later down the road. If the hayward craps out I will then take of that top control board and re-install my current system with the hayward top board
 
jayman69 said:
I am told my panel is the same as the Hayward panel however looking at the two attached you can see the display boards are different due to the LEDs and switch being in a different position
Click to expand...
Wondering how you managed with the different display. I am trying to resolve an issue with the display panel reading HOT and not creating chlorine. It was recommended to me that a new PCB panel is purchased. IN order to get the new board to fit I would need to alter the box due to the display not fitting. Wondering if you might have some advice?
 
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