Is the pool guy correct?

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So, it appears you have visible algae that were not sure if it’s dead or alive. You did pass the OCLT technically BUT there was something consuming the chlorine as you saw a drop. IMHO I personally would focus on a SLAM rather than focusing on the filter. The algae in my eyes appears to be the root cause of your issues. Now do you drain some to lower the salt level first? I’ll let others chime in here as I don’t really ever look at salt so I’m not sure if that’s high or what. ??‍♂️ I would get your CYA level up there to around 40ppm then follow the SLAM Process procedure.
 
ABQ_Pool said:
What's odd is that I did add CYA (>1 year ago) and I know that doesn't evap out so wondering why salt is high by CYA is almost nonexistent.
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CYA does degrade at a slow rate in elevated water temperatures. So here in our area we tend to need to add CYA a few times a year. It should be tested monthly from May to September.

Your salinity is quite high. I did not see how you tested that level. If via a K1766 kit, it would be wise to lower that level to below 4000 ppm (preferably closer to 3500 ppm). With your sand filter and your exchange of water due to backwash your salinity should not rise much if at all, unless you add salt to the pool.
 
Here would be my next steps if it was my pool.....

1. Pool is reasonably vacuumed up....filter is backwashed and psi is normal.

2. I would drain 30-50% of your water to reduce CH (what is the CH of your fill water?) and salt.

2. CYA should be raised to 30 ppm by placing a CYA-filled sock into the skimmer and run the pump 24/7 (I think it's fairly reasonable to assume you have 10 ppm in there even though you really can't test that small amount so you will be adding 20 ppm)

3. It is safe to assume your 30 ppm of CYA is in the pool, even though it may not yet register on the test

4. Now, SLAM your pool. During the SLAM you should only focus on your FC.....making sure it stays up around 12 ppm. Remember, There is no need to test ANY of the other parameters until your SLAM is completed. if you get haphazard with the SLAM process it won't work. Clean your filter as required (watch for the pressure rise of 25%), run your pump 24/7 and brush and vacuum (yes, again) as needed.

If you do the SLAM right, your pool will sparkle.
 
If you still have dirt on floor your can manual vac to waste before draining
Probably could even run floor cleaner to waste as well before draining
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Essentially no dirt on the floor is a precursor to the slam......see #1 above. Additionally, OP has had marginal success in getting pool cleaned up with the "floor cleaner", that's why I suggested and he purchased a manual vac.

At this point of his progress, there is no reason to vac to waste
 
Thanks all - I'll focus on the steps that duraleigh suggests - I will continue to vacuum up the dirt and drain out the pool with a pump to get down to around 50%. I'll check and post the CH of the fill water here shortly.

mknauss, I test my salinity with the 1766 kit.
 
ABQ_Pool said:
mknauss, I test my salinity with the 1766 kit.
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Great. If you would put the test kits you use in your Signature we will all know that each time we see your post.

Your fill water is from the Colorado River. Your CH will be ~250 ppm and TA ~130 ppm.
 
CH from the hose (fill) is 150ppm. I rechecked the salt and I calculated wrong earlier - it's 1200ppm from the faucet.

Pictures: Pool 10 is last evening, dog for scale. Pool 11 is today a 1PM.
 

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With the new numbers you just put up, there is no reason to drain ANY of your pool.

Add the CYA to get to 30 ppm total and start your SLAM. Base on your pics, your SLAM will be complete very quickly....perhaps 24-48 hours.

Remember to follow that SLAM article exactly....NO shortcuts.

(Nice Dog!)
 
duraleigh said:
With the new numbers you just put up, there is no reason to drain ANY of your pool.
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His salinity is still high but that is not a reason to drain immediately, though it should be worked down to under 4000 ppm.

The 1200 ppm from the faucet sounds odd -- I doubt your local water company can distribute water that high in salinity. Check the water quality reports from your water company.
 

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mknauss said:
His salinity is still high but that is not a reason to drain immediately, though it should be worked down to under 4000 ppm.

The 1200 ppm from the faucet sounds odd -- I doubt your local water company can distribute water that high in salinity. Check the water quality reports from your water company.
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Whole house water softener?
 
I'm draining the pool now - my thinking is that i will need to get the CYA up before I SLAM, and i'd prefer to not have to re-add the CYA again when I drain (due to Salt levels) later. Should I SLAM before draining?

The 2017 water report for my area shows Sodium (no NaCl readings) ranges from 87-270ppm.

I don't have a softner.

I tested salt from the sink faucet it comes out around 800ppm.
 
mknauss said:
His salinity is still high but that is not a reason to drain immediately, though it should be worked down to under 4000 ppm.

The 1200 ppm from the faucet sounds odd -- I doubt your local water company can distribute water that high in salinity. Check the water quality reports from your water company.
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Marty,

I agree, very unlikely. I got a copy of the 2017 City of Chandler water. It shows sodium 87-270 ppm. Here's the link. I thing you should retest the salt when you have time, Not urgent just do it before you add any water to be sure you add the right amount. In the meantime do what the experts advise.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
Get your water sample from the spigot that you fill your pool with. Also let it run a few minutes before taking the sample. The range your water company reports makes sense.

I would drain to get the salt down now. Then add CYA to get to 30 ppm.
 
Ok - I'm back to revive this thread of mine. Apologies for not posting after all the support, but I had life get in the way of working this pool issue. I've been adding chemicals, sweeping the pool and testing today and I think I'm ready to begin SLAMing.

I've been using the Pool Math app to log my results, but currently the pool is:
FC 15.0
CC 0.0
pH 7.2
TA 100
CH 490
CYA 60
Salt 3400

The Chlorine/CYA chart says at a CYA of 60 that its not recommended to SLAM - should I try and bring it up to 70ppm before beginning? If i begin at CYA of 60, I will raise up the FC to 24 tonight and test. Heading to Costco to get more Clorox now...
 

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