Is my CYA tester fluid faulty or am I the worst CYA tester in history?

[kstough]

So IF my CYA is 50, then why am I getting algae? I have been treating my pool as if my CYA was 60-70 and kept my FC at least at 6ppm every day...and still algae comes. My pool was crystal clear until I started adding CYA to my pool. When my pool was a CYA 30 at the beginning of season, I kept FC at 4 and followed the CYA chart as I added CYA to finally get it to where it *should* be at 60 per Pool Math app.

This is what confuses me so much.

 

[newdude]

So IF my CYA is 50, then why am I getting algae?

Could be hiding in plain sight just waiting to bloom again. Ladder rails, steps, lights, water features, skimmer boxes/doors etc. I’d go on a treasure hunt scouring every inch with a slightly different/new mentality. Not just a clean the pool mentality but a ‘where can you be hiding you stubborn SOB mentality’.

 

[clambert1273]

So IF my CYA is 50, then why am I getting algae? I have been treating my pool as if my CYA was 60-70 and kept my FC at least at 6ppm every day...and still algae comes. My pool was crystal clear until I started adding CYA to my pool. When my pool was a CYA 30 at the beginning of season, I kept FC at 4 and followed the CYA chart as I added CYA to finally get it to where it *should* be at 60 per Pool Math app.

This is what confuses me so much.

If you never did a SLAM or completed it fully then there could have still been residual & it's starting to show itself to you. If there is any inkling of algae then SLAM Process

 

[ajw22]

So IF my CYA is 50, then why am I getting algae?

You can get algae at any CYA level. CYA does nothing to prevent algae.

Start with a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test with your SWG off.

Why are you adding Polyqaut and bleach if you have your SWG generating?

 

[IUsedToSail]

Okay... so what is the consensus on what his FC should be based on a CYA of 50?

I'm struggling with this myself. CYA of 90, no FC loss over night.

 

[ajw22]

Okay... so what is the consensus on what his FC should be based on a CYA of 50?

Target of 4+ but I would run it around 6.

TFP FC recommended levels assume an algae free pool that passes an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Once you have algae int he water, even if the water is clear, then the FC demand rises and the FC/CYA Levels recommended level don't work to keep the water algae free.

 

[getreal720]

As others have mentioned, the CYA test doesn't need to be super critical.

The key is to have it above 20 PPM and below 80 PPM. I have a fresh water pool, that I manually chlorinate with cal hypo 73 powder. So I keep my CYA around 30 PPM.

FOR YOU - since you have a salt water generator... your levels should be between 60PPM and 100 PPM. Sounds like you need to double your CYA (if the 40 PPM reading
is accurate). That's off of the trouble free pool chlorine / CYA chart anyways.

The one and only thing CYA does is prevent the sunlight from killing all your chlorine off super fast. CYA protects your chlorine from sunlight. It has nothing to do with
sanitation directly. However, the trade off is that while CYA protects your chlorine from the sun, it also effectively causes you to need higher levels of chlorine in the water
to be able to keep the water free of organics. The Chlorine / CYA chart is very handy there.

 

[clambert1273]

Okay... so what is the consensus on what his FC should be based on a CYA of 50?

I'm struggling with this myself. CYA of 90, no FC loss over night.

Target is 6-8 fc for 50, so me I would aim for 8 to be safe and make sure

 

[ajw22]

FOR YOU - since you have a salt water generator... your levels should be between 60PPM and 100 PPM. Sounds like you need to double your CYA (if the 40 PPM reading
is accurate). That's off of the trouble free pool chlorine / CYA chart anyways.

I would not increase the CYA until the algae problems are resolved. If the SLAM Process is requried a lot less chlorine will be used at lower CYA levels.

 

[getreal720]

I would not increase the CYA until the algae problems are resolved. If the SLAM Process is requried a lot less chlorine will be used at lower CYA levels.

Is the information on this page no longer accurate?

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

On the SWG page, it lists 60 PPM as the minimum for target level..... it also indicates there's a tiny fluctuation in necessary chlorine for SWG pools.


For example, at 60 PPM it lists a target of 4 PPM, while at 100 PPM it only bumps up to 7 PPM at a target.


Maybe I don't know enough about SWG pools...

 

[clambert1273]

Is the information on this page no longer accurate?

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

On the SWG page, it lists 60 PPM as the minimum for target level..... it also indicates there's a tiny fluctuation in necessary chlorine for SWG pools.


For example, at 60 PPM it lists a target of 4 PPM, while at 100 PPM it only bumps up to 7 PPM at a target.


Maybe I don't know enough about SWG pools...

It's accurate but as said above it assumes a passed oclt & zero algae

 

[ajw22]

Is the information on this page no longer accurate?

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

On the SWG page, it lists 60 PPM as the minimum for target level..... it also indicates there's a tiny fluctuation in necessary chlorine for SWG pools.


For example, at 60 PPM it lists a target of 4 PPM, while at 100 PPM it only bumps up to 7 PPM at a target.


Maybe I don't know enough about SWG pools...

The FC/CYA Levels is accurate.

A SWG will work fine with CYA at 40 or 50 ppm. Especially if you are in the Northern latitudes. CYA of 60 and above will provide more sun protection for the FC which is needed when your pool is the intense sun on the southern part of our country.

You will need the SWG % up a bit higher if you have CYA 40 then CYA 70.

 

[clambert1273]

The FC/CYA Levels is accurate.

A SWG will work fine with CYA at 40 or 50 ppm. Especially if you are in the Northern latitudes. CYA of 60 and above will provide more sun protection for the FC which is needed when your pool is the intense sun on the southern part of our country.

You will need the SWG % up a bit higher if you have CYA 40 then CYA 70.

I know here in AZ i will be running it at 80 when its time lol

 

[Oly]

The goal is a clean pool, a low daily FC loss, your SWG dialed in to match your FC loss per day and your FC ppm to never drop out of your target range, better yet stay on the high side 24/7 especially now during peak season. Use liquid chlorine to bump up as need before or after a planned event and after an unexpected environmental load. Monitor your FC daily until you know exactly how your system operates.
All pools are unique but the first order of business is a clean pool with little or no overnight FC loss. Next find your ideal CYA by monitoring your daily FC loss. Dial in your SWG and monitor with testing because seasonal demand changes.

 

[kstough]

I

You can get algae at any CYA level. CYA does nothing to prevent algae.

Start with a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test with your SWG off.

Why are you adding Polyqaut and bleach if you have your SWG generating?

I'm trying to keep my GC at least at 6ppm right now b/c of the algae since I am unsure of my CYA results.

 

[ajw22]

I

I'm trying to keep my GC at least at 6ppm right now b/c of the algae since I am unsure of my CYA results.

6 ppm FC is only adequate for an algae free pool. I do not know what you are trying to accomplish.

 

[LoneWolfArcher]

I, too, hate the CYA test. THOUGH, I hate it a lot less than I did the past two years. That stupid dot would disappear right away with the CYA levels I was dealing with!

This spring the CYA test was about 50-55. As someone said above, exactness isn't necessary and I have called it 60. The goodness (badness?) is that my CYA level seems to remain constant through the swimming season. Last 2 years, what I got testing in May is what I got testing in late September I got ready to close it. I lose about 35PPM with draining to close, and then having rain and snow melt refill it. So I expect next spring I will be at about 20 and will have to add some.

 

[pb4uswim]

I have also noticed that it settles pretty quick. Just squirt some in the tube and watch how quickly it changes.

My method is to fill until I get a jist of what I think it is. Then, looking at the tube marker (say 50) and will then pour it all back in the squeeze bottle, shake, and refill the test tube to the my estimated reading (50) and then take a quick glance. More often than not, it confirms. A couple of others mentioned the OP's pics and I would have put that at 50 as well.

That’s how I do it as well.

I know this is not recommended, but I have also taken my water to the pool store and we are both coming up with the same CYA. Also, because my pool is new, I know how much CYA has been added to the water. All indications are that I’m between 50 and 60, so I use 60 as my number. It really helped when someone pointed out that the mixture/solution can be used several times. That helped me hone my technique. I originally thought it was a one and done test. Being able to keep testing until you’re comfortable with the results is very helpful.