Is >10 weeks without the need to shock unusual?

Jun 6, 2018
11
Maineville/OH
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Just curious here - I'm at 10+ weeks of combined chloramines of <1; is that unusual? Prior years I followed chlorine manufacturers recommendation for weekly shock. This year I'm following TFP methods (which are awesome BTW). Details: Using TFP test kit, 16000 gal liner pool, manually chlorinated (pucks unfortunately), vacuumed daily, following CYA/chlorine chart (70ppm CYA & 6-10ppm free chlorine), pool chemistry very stable, generally light (2 person daily) use, surrounded by trees, heated to 85F, sand filter, pump runs continuously, algaecide added every 14 days. Water is crystal clear. Very happy with the results this year, just curious if I'm lucky or is my daily care paying off. Jim
 
just curious if I'm lucky or is my daily care paying off. Jim
I had 8+ years at the old place and never had the need to shock. I'm going on a couple months at the new place with no plans of ever requiring shocking.

The definition of a shock is a sudden and often violent disturbance. Kinda like not paying attention to the road and needing to jerk the car back in your lane. Don't text and pool. Keep doing what you're doing. (y)
 
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Following the TFP method, I've been 6 months with new pool with -0- CC and have never shocked my pool. Never put any algecide in the pool, or, any other unnecessary additive. Just chlorine and acid as needed. I'd be curious how you maintain a steady and non-climbing CYA level following the CYA/CL chart and using pucks.
 
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I had 8+ years at the old place and never had the need to shock. I'm going on a couple months at the new place with no plans of ever requiring shocking.

The definition of a shock is a sudden and often violent disturbance. Kinda like not paying attention to the road and needing to jerk the car back in your lane. Don't text and pool. Keep doing what you're doing. (y)
Ha, that's really funny! I don't text and drive or text and pool (apparently!) Thanks for the guidance.
 
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To keep the CYA level in range I have to drain about 4-5,000 gals out every 6 weeks or so. I'm switching to unstabilized pucks as soon as stock runs out.
Unstabilized pucks don’t exist. There are cal-hypo pellets, but they aren’t like the pucks. They dissolve much more rapidly and aren’t compatible with your feeder
 
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The way most people treat their pools is to throw some pucks in it. This works for a while, but without anyone actively monitoring FC and CYA levels, eventually FC drops too low for the CYA. This could be because not enough FC is getting released in general or because the CYA is getting too high.

To extend how long people can do this without exchanging the water, the people maintaining their pools this way do a weekly "shock" - bringing the FC levels up extremely high. The hope is that this will kill off any algae starting to grow, because eventually with the CYA getting so high, algae will start to grow. And it might kill off that growing algae, for a while.

Eventually the CYA builds up so much that the "shock" doesn't even bring your FC up high enough - or if it does, it doesn't stay high enough long enough for the elevated chlorine levels to kill any algae growing. The growing algae and sun bring the FC back down below where it's effective, and the pool goes green. Then they're told they have "too high of total dissolved solids" or "chlorine lock" and have to drain/refill the pool. This brings their CYA levels down, and the cycle starts all over again.

Instead, we maintain our FC where it should be. Algae can't start growing. So no need for a periodic "shock." If we slip, and our FC levels do drop too low and algae starts, we use the SLAM process as a careful, metered way of keeping an elevated FC that's high enough to kill algae without being so high that it damages pool surfaces and equipment. But people who are careful with their routine never have this happen, and so never need to raise FC past maintenance levels.
 
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Switch to liquid chlorine or you will have the same issue eventually with controlling calcium levels by using the cal-hypo.
I have debated the options in my head for a while. I used to use liquid: transport, storage and shelf life as well have having to be there daily are challenges. Really like the convenience of the pucks, but with the CYA downside. If I had a delivery service (like my drinking water and water softener salt) I'd be all in! Calcium shouldn't be an issue for my liner pool. I will consider finishing the year with the manual chlorinator then switch to liquid next year. Thanks for the advice. SWG is not an option for me unfortunately.
 
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This year I'm following TFP methods

Well, almost....
pucks unfortunately
algaecide added every 14 days
Frog System incline chlorinator


Neither of these are really part of the TFP method. As you already know, and others have said, the pucks create other issues. Also, keeping up with the FC.CYA chart, there is no need to add algaecide. At best, algaecide prevents algae, but isn't needed if the chlorine levels are where they should be. They also come at the cost of adding other things to the pool like copper, which is not wanted.

Sounds a little like you are mixing protocols. Some TFP, some pool store, some convenience. A truly TFP will not require a drain/refill because CYA or CH gets out of control.
 
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Thank you for that JohnT - was not aware. Certainly may speed up my decision to go back to liquid!
Yes, there are cal-hypo pucks available. They are sold at Home Depot and such for chlorinator tubes designed for aerobic septic systems where you would not want CYA in the final sanitation stage. Sold in same type bucket, but with red lid. They are full of fillers to get compaction. They swell, gum, and clog feeders easily, so most folks use LC in their aerobic systems instead. They are are not a great option for pool maintenance, and as stated above, dangerous to mix around with your current tabs and tab feeder.
 
Going on 4 years and have never had to "shock" my pool. Oh, and although you say you are using TFP methods, that would NOT include using an algaecide.
 
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I'm in an area where you swim from late May to the first week of September. I used to "shock" my pool at the beginning of the year just to clear the little bit of algae that grew over winter. This year I added chlorine thru the winter and opened to a clear pool. So I haven't shocked my pool since May 2021.
 
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My wife is saltwater sensitive. Although I realize the water will not be salty, it's a mental thing that can't be overcome. She will always sense salt in the water and be "unhappy". Not worth the risk.

You may want to check the actual salt level of the pool. You will be surprised at the salt level.
Adding chlorine (in any form) and/or muriatic acid will result in the salt level increasing.

What is her sensitivity?
If it's the ability to taste it, tell her to stop drinking the pool water.
 

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