IntelliPH in-line feeder cage/support system ideas?

[tomas21]

Curious what ideas others have to protect our intelliPH in-line feeder insert from getting hit and snapped off. Now that pool is in use a couple balls have landed in the pool equipment area and I feared it hit the intelliPH in-line feeder

Curious what cage / support system ideas anyone has ..

 

[ajw22]

What would @Dirk do?

 

[Dirk]

I had the same concern, but my setup makes for a natural "cage" for the IpH injector, so mine is pretty safe and I didn't feel the need for any additional protection.

The red arrow is pointing at a drain bibb that I had originally planned to plumb with a 2x3/4x2 tee. I was told by my plumber that using a 2x2x2 tee, with a reducer to get to 3/4 is the better, stronger way, so the two bibbs got plumbed that way. But then I ignored that advice for my injector, and used a 2x1/2x2 tee instead, mostly because of its protected location. But you did yours correctly, with the larger tee outlet and reducer.

All that might be academic, because the injector is probably going to snap off before the tee gives way. The injectors are a pretty soft plastic, not hard like PVC, so I think your concern is real. I would fasten some sort of tube to the tee, and protect it that way. Perhaps a 6" length of the next-size-up PVC pipe. Or maybe a chunk of large radiator hose, that you could clamp to the tee. Really anything that could slip over the tee and cover the injector. You could use a radiator clamp to affix two flat pieces of material (even wooden slats) to the tee, sticking upward to guard the injector. Heavy-duty mesh (like heavy chicken wire) could be formed into a cage. Those are just off the top of my head.

I think it's worth the effort because the injector's internal check valve is located above where it's likely to break off, which would render your system unusable should it snap. You might keep a 1/2" PVC plug handy, so that you could quickly plug up the tee should the injector ever break.

It's not shown in this pic, because it was taken before I was done, but you can see it elsewhere on my pad. I cover all my tubes and wires with cable covers, for UV protection. This stuff:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-10-ft-Plastic-Cord-Organizer/999953798

And I keep all my PVC painted (also not shown yet!). That's recommended by PVC manufacturer's for above ground PVC, as it is not rated for above-ground use with constant UV exposure. It can become brittle and fail. (Plus painting it looks nice.) Use a light-colored paint, as dark paint gets hotter.

 

[Dirk]

Not that you asked, but that's never stopped me before... Does this valve lead to an auto-filler valve by your pool, by any chance? If so, it's not the right kind of valve for that purpose. I can offer more details if you're interested...

If there is no additional valve downstream from this one, and it's just for filling your pool manually, then it's fine.

 

[Turbo1Ton]

Mine is also down low and relatively well protected similar to @Dirk has. Not sure what you could use to protect it. Maybe you could slot and notch a piece of larger PVC pipe (3"?) to fit over the top of it and extend down over the 2" pipe to keep it in place? Let me know if that doesn't make sense and I can sketch what I'm thinking.

--Jeff

 

[Dirk]

Mine is also down low and relatively well protected similar to @Dirk has. Not sure what you could use to protect it. Maybe you could slot and notch a piece of larger PVC pipe (3"?) to fit over the top of it and extend down over the 2" pipe to keep it in place? Let me know if that doesn't make sense and I can sketch what I'm thinking.

--Jeff

Yah, I think that would work great. And probably look nicest.

 

[Dirk]

and yes that anti siphon valve sends water to a auto fill with float next to my pool. Let me know what you wanted to share.

So when you have any sort of closed valve (like an auto-filler valve) downstream of the type of anti-siphon valve you have on your pad, the pipe leaving that anti-siphon valve is under constant, full pressure, as is the anti-siphon components within the valve. Those components are rated for uses like running sprinklers, where the pressure is no where near full blast, and only then when you're running sprinklers: not full time. Those components are not rated for constant, full pressure, and will eventually fail because of it. And because those types of valves are not testable, you might not ever realize it has failed, and that it no longer is pulling its anti-siphon duty. That duty is meant to protect your water supply from being contaminated by pool water and its nasty chemicals. You should have a pressure-rated backflow preventer for the job. Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KI0WORE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can read more about it here:

Back Flow Preventer - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[tomas21]

So when you have any sort of closed valve (like an auto-filler valve) downstream of the type of anti-siphon valve you have on your pad, the pipe leaving that anti-siphon valve is under constant, full pressure, as is the anti-siphon components within the valve. Those components are rated for uses like running sprinklers, where the pressure is no where near full blast, and only then when you're running sprinklers: not full time. Those components are not rated for constant, full pressure, and will eventually fail because of it. And because those types of valves are not testable, you might not ever realize it has failed, and that it no longer is pulling its anti-siphon duty. That duty is meant to protect your water supply from being contaminated by pool water and its nasty chemicals. You should have a pressure-rated backflow preventer for the job. Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KI0WORE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can read more about it here:

Back Flow Preventer - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Thanks. I’m trying to figure out how i should re-plumb this setup. I also have a double check valve setup to add to the main line that the pool and irrigation are all on too.

 

[Dirk]

Thanks. I’m trying to figure out how i should re-plumb this setup. I also have a double check valve setup to add to the main line that the pool and irrigation are all on too.

Maybe you can use some of this. It's a crazy long thread. This link jumps to the plumbing part:

#76

That was a while ago. Recently I added another backflow preventer for my irrigation system, when I added the liquid fertilizer distribution system to my garden last year. So that's four check valves total to manage the various lines for pool, garden and house. Had I thought ahead I could have used one less backflow preventer, by putting it on the main line, instead of a dedicated one for the pool and the other for the irrigation. But they're relatively cheap, so no big deal. The other two check valves I think I explained in that old post.

 

[tomas21]

Mine is also down low and relatively well protected similar to @Dirk has. Not sure what you could use to protect it. Maybe you could slot and notch a piece of larger PVC pipe (3"?) to fit over the top of it and extend down over the 2" pipe to keep it in place? Let me know if that doesn't make sense and I can sketch what I'm thinking.

--Jeff

Jeff what is your sketch idea. Like a Viking helmet the slides down over ?

 

[Turbo1Ton]

You got it. 3" or 4" PVC. Not sure if the ID of the 3" is large enough to fit over everything. Notched on opposing sides to slide down over the 2" PVC, and slotted perpendicular to those so that the injector tube has room to come out. Make the injector tube slot 3/8" or 1/2". Overall height of this is probably 6" higher than the measurement from the bottom of the 2" pipe to the top of the injector tube.



Let me know if this doesn't make sense.

--Jeff

 

[Dirk]

According to the google machine:
Outside diameter of a PVC tee port is about 2.75".
Inside diameter of a 3" PVC pipe is about 3.04".

Sometimes the big box stores have a selection of PVC in 2' lengths.

 

[Dirk]

According to the google machine:
Outside diameter of a PVC tee port is about 2.75".
Inside diameter of a 3" PVC pipe is about 3.04".

Sometimes the big box stores have a selection of PVC in 2' lengths.

If the tolerance is that close (it's only 1/8" on all sides), you might not even need to make the slots. It might stand up just fine slipping a length of 3" pipe over the upward-facing port of the 2" tee...

 

[Turbo1Ton]

If the tolerance is that close (it's only 1/8" on all sides), you might not even need to make the slots. It might stand up just fine slipping a length of 3" pipe over the upward-facing port of the 2" tee...

I'd still consider making the slots. The concern is an object striking it, such as a ball. If you can give it more vertical depth it may provide more lateral stability and distribute any loads from an inadvertent ball strike to the entire tee, and not just the branch portion.

I dunno. I'm making this up as I go. Sounds good in my head though.

--Jeff

 

[Dirk]

If you can give it more vertical depth it may provide more lateral stability

Sounds right.

 

[tomas21]

Well my intelliPH is down for the count but I built a custom viking helmet to protect the feeder from “rogue” pool toys….rock solid

• ADS3000 3" Triple Wall
• ~14" Height
• Cut notches, heated up and pushed over a spare 3-way to get it to mold to the form
• Cut slots on side liking Viking helmet and put a velcro strap under it like a chin strap to hold
• Put some plastic shims from cut outs inside so there is 0 play
• Did another velcro strap around base
• Unit is solid and does not even budge

 

[Dirk]

Where can I order mine!? Do you support any other teams besides Minnesota? Excellent job!!