Intelliflo3 VSP I/O Board - Heater and SWG

loamyroots

Bronze Supporter
Mar 8, 2024
51
NJ
Pool Size
49000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Hey, I'm in the process of installing a Intelliflo3 VSP with the I/O board attachment. I understand that there are 2 relays on the I/O board, 5A and 16A terminals.

I was wondering if it would be possible to connect the Circupool RJ60+ to one set of relays to act as a backup to the flow switch and ensure that the SWG is only on when the pump is on.

In addition, I was also hoping to connect my Hayward H400K btu NG heater to the other relay to be able to turn on/off the heater through the Pentair app? I understand that I won't be able to control the temp, but I wouldn't be interested in changing it. I'll manually set it to the desired temp, but would like the ability to turn on/off the heater remotely?

I read a prior post where someone mentioned that I would have connect the fireman switch to the relay, but I'm not too familiar with that concept.

Has anyone successfully done this before? Thanks in advance!
 
I found this in the manual, wondering if the 2 wire connection to the Intelliflo's relay would work? There's a YouTube video where someone wired the 5A relay to the fireman switch wires on a Pentair MasterTemp but I don't think the Hayward H400 has a fireman switch.
Screenshot 2025-04-16 at 6.30.20 PM.png
 
I was wondering if it would be possible to connect the Circupool RJ60+ to one set of relays to act as a backup to the flow switch and ensure that the SWG is only on when the pump is on.
Yes. The SWG will work fine. However, in that mode of operation of the heater, it is expecting the pump is the thermostat. You will have to turn heater on and off at the temperature you want, the heater will NOT control the temp, it will allow a maximum temp of 104 degrees. Not really a best practice.

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So let's say I always want the pool heated to 82 degrees, as long as I set it there, the pump would be able to turn the heater on and off once it hits the desired temperature?

If so, would I just connect the COM (white) and the POOL (orange) wires to the pump's relay? I'm guessing it would be ok to connect the heater to the 5A side and the SWG to the 16A side or vice versa?
 
Oh wait, are you saying that wiring it this way assumes that the pump is the thermostat even though it is not. So we've essentially removed the thermostat from the equation. Therefore there will never be a signal from the "thermostat" to shut off the heater once it hits 82 degrees and will continue to heat until it gets to 104 degrees?
 
Oh wait, are you saying that wiring it this way assumes that the pump is the thermostat even though it is not. So we've essentially removed the thermostat from the equation. Therefore there will never be a signal from the "thermostat" to shut off the heater once it hits 82 degrees and will continue to heat until it gets to 104 degrees?
Correct.
 
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Oh that's not really a good situation then. Thank you for the clarification!

Guess I'll just do it manually for now. Might have to look into future ways of controlling the heater remotely without getting into any expensive automation options.
 
Just thinking out loud….why not just run the power for the heater through the relay board itself? It will only turn on when the relay is closed and could use the onboard thermostat. It should stay set to your last set temp even when powered off….. I can’t find the electrical specs for it at the moment, but I doubt the heater wouldn’t be able to be wired through the 16A relay…even possibly the 5A.
 
Yeah I guess that was my original thought as well, just wasn't sure. The 16A relay can supply high voltages, so if the heater requires a 15amp service, I'm guessing that I can place it on the 16A relay and be ok?

Then I would place the RJ60+, which has a 1 amp draw on 240V, on one half of the 5A service.

Thinking out loud here, in addition I have 3 lights in the pool (I believe older Hayward Astrolites, but I have to double check after opening). If I were to replace their bulbs with color changing LED bulbs, couldn't I also connect all 3 of them to the other half of the 5A service. The 3 LED bulbs likely wouldn't draw more than 1-2 amps and I could theoretically control them from the Pentair app as well?
 
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15amp service on the heater...
But what is the actual draw? The heater may require a 15A circuit but draw 2 amps…..
Yeah I guess that was my original thought as well, just wasn't sure. The 16A relay can supply high voltages, so if the heater requires a 15amp service, I'm guessing that I can place it on the 16A relay and be ok?

Then I would place the RJ60+, which has a 1 amp draw on 240V, on one half of the 5A service.

Thinking out loud here, in addition I have 3 lights in the pool (I believe older Hayward Astrolites, but I have to double check after opening). If I were to replace their bulbs with color changing LED bulbs, couldn't I also connect all 3 of them to the other half of the 5A service. The 3 LED bulbs likely wouldn't draw more than 1-2 amps and I could theoretically control them from the Pentair app as well?
You can supply two circuits. The relays can handle 240 or 120 but only two independent circuits….. Heater and SWG….Heater and lights….SWG and Lights…you can’t “piggyback” three devices on two relays. (You can but it’s a bad idea) and the automation is only programmed to open or close two relays, so 3 devices on two relays regardless of draw doesn’t work well. You’d have to have two devices operating at the same time regardless of whether or not you wanted 1 of them on.
 
Can the firemans switch be run through a relay?
Hayward heaters have a bO remote control setting that disables its internal thermostat.

A MasterTemp heater would work that way as you can set the MasterTemp control temperature even when using the fireman’s switch remote control.
 
Can the firemans switch be run through a relay?
Hayward H400 has no fireman’s switch….They employ “Fire Tile Technology” which eliminates a fireman’s switch. Their comms call it a ”fireman’s switch” but the tech turns over temp monitoring to a separate temperature probe that’s supposed to be on a separate device.
 
You can supply two circuits. The relays can handle 240 or 120 but only two independent circuits….. Heater and SWG….Heater and lights….SWG and Lights…you can’t “piggyback” three devices on two relays. (You can but it’s a bad idea) and the automation is only programmed to open or close two relays, so 3 devices on two relays regardless of draw doesn’t work well. You’d have to have two devices operating at the same time regardless of whether or not you wanted 1 of them on.
Ah I had a feeling that might've been the case. The manual splits the low and high voltage relay circuits into Device 1 and Device 2, I just wasn't sure if you could have 4 separate circuits as long as you stayed within the max amperage or if they capped it to just 2 circuits. Makes sense.

So if possible, I'd like to control the SWG and the heater through the pump.

If the actual heater's amp draw is significantly less than 15A, then I should be safe to connect both the SWG and heater to the high voltage relays.

If not, then I'll have to connect the heater to the high voltage relay and the SWG to the low voltage relay. But then I will have to change the jumper cable on the RJ60+ to accept 120V instead.
 
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You would need install the heater on the 16A relay of the pump to control it. This leaves the 5A relay to power your RJ60 which should be sufficient as it draws about an amp or two max.

Edited to add….both relays can handle 240v, so you can power the SWG on the low amp relay regardless.
 
If it were my install, I’d run the SWG on the 5A relay and the heater on the 16A relay…both 240v. The lights are out of luck. Heater should power on and off on command with its last set point retained. You would set up programs in the automation that are flow dependent and close whichever relay you tell it to in the program/schedule. Nickname the relays to heater and SWG to make identification easier.
 
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