IntelliChlor questions

[rjb1211]

Here are a couple things that I need to have clarified.

The manual says that the cell turns off when the water temperature falls below 52d. The Further Reading article says that it turns off when the temperature is below 60d. Why the discrepancy?

The manual also says that the cell needs 25 gpm +/- 5. My current pump low setting is 28 gpm. If it works once will it always work, or should I just keep it over 30 to be safe?

 

[JamesW]

Operating IntelliChlor SCG in Water Temperatures Below 52°F
When the IntelliChlor SCG is operated in water temperatures 52°F +/-3°F (11°C +/-1.7°C) and below, the “Cold Water” light will turn RED, indicating that the IntelliChlor SCG is on “Standby” mode to protect the blades (system off, no chlorine production).

During this mode, all other lights on the unit will remain OFF until the water temperature increases to a safe working level (above 52°F) and the unit resumes normal operation.


Temperature Sensor:
To protect the IntelliChlor SCG from operation and potential damage when the temperature of the pool water falls below 52° F, ±3° F (11° C, ±1.67°C), the temperature sensor switches the IntelliChlor SCG off, illuminates the COLD WATER light and no chlorine will be produced.

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/pentair-pool/residential/sanitizers/intellichlor/intellichlor-installation-users-guide-ic15-ic20-ic40-ic60.pdf

https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/nam/product-related/product-manuals/pool-and-spa-equipment/intellichlor/IntelliChlor_Quick_Start_Guide_and_Tips_English.pdf

• Salt Sensor: Two (2) salt sensor probes in the IntelliChlor SCG are activated each time the IntelliChlor SCG is switched on and again during every 12 hours of operation.
At each of those times, the salt level LED indicator lights flash in a scrolling sequence for two (2) minutes to indicate that the IntelliChlor SCG is in analysis mode.

After two (2) minutes, the LED indicators lights will signal one (1) of three (3) salinity ranges.

For more information, see “Salt Level Status LEDs” on page 7.

Note: The salt sensor reading is within +/- 500 ppm accuracy.

 

[JamesW]

The Further Reading article says that it turns off when the temperature is below 60d. Why the discrepancy?

60 degrees was incorrect.

Article edited.

 

[Jimrahbe]

rjb,

Even though the cell should shut off at 52 degrees, it will start to have issues when the water temp gets below about 60 degrees. Below 60, the cell often has a hard time measuring the salt. If the cell just 'thinks' the salt level is low it will not work, no matter what the actual salt level is.. Every cell and installation is slightly difference, so all that really matter is how your cell works for you.

I don't like to read a number in a manual and consider it an absolute.. again, each cell is a little different.. As far as flow goes, I would experiment and see what works best for you. If the flow switch is green at 28 GPM, then simple slowly lower the flow until the flow light turns Red. Then slowly increase the flow while watching the flow light. As soon as it turn green, then note the flow, or RPM, and add a little just to make sure.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

The manual also says that the cell needs 25 gpm +/- 5. My current pump low setting is 28 gpm. If it works once will it always work, or should I just keep it over 30 to be safe?

It's not an exact number.

Just find where your turns on and then add some speed for margin.

 

[JamesW]

The manual says that the cell turns off when the water temperature falls below 52d.

The range is 55 degrees to 49 degrees for the Cold Water shutoff.

When the IntelliChlor SCG is operated in water temperatures 52°F +/-3°F (11°C +/-1.7°C) and below, the “Cold Water” light will turn RED, indicating that the IntelliChlor SCG is on “Standby” mode to protect the blades (system off, no chlorine production).

Also, the temperature sensor is known to be unreliable and this affects where the cutoff actually happens and it affects the salinity reading when the temperature is inaccurate.

 

[rjb1211]

Thanks for the info. With regard to the flow once you find what works in a system does it stay close to that or can it drift?

 

[JamesW]

With regard to the flow once you find what works in a system does it stay close to that or can it drift?

If you use RPM control, a dirty filter can reduce flow.

If you use Flow Control, the pump maintains flow as the filter gets dirty by increasing the rpm.

 

[rjb1211]

If you use RPM control, a dirty filter can reduce flow.

If you use Flow Control, the pump maintains flow as the filter gets dirty by increasing the rpm.

That is really good to know and I am going to change my settings accordingly. Thanks.

I am still looking for the answer to the consistency of the flow switch.

 

[JamesW]

The switch is not very accurate; it is just a piece of steel that get pushed by the water.

Typically, RPM control is a better choice, in my opinion.

Your filter should not get dirty fast enough to make a difference.

If your filter gets dirty, you don't want the pump to ramp up too much.

If you use flow control, set a safe upper speed limit.

 

[ajw22]

The manual says that the cell turns off when the water temperature falls below 52d. The Further Reading article says that it turns off when the temperature is below 60d. Why the discrepancy?

Because the temperature thermistor is analog and not digital and not that precise. In real life the cell can have problems with cold water in the 50s so “below 60d” is a good description of its real behavior.

 

[rjb1211]

Here is another question - this is in the Further Reading article:

Some people look for champagne like bubbles coming out of their returns which is from the hydrogen gas byproduct of the generation. However that is not conclusive as the bubbles may come and go with varying pump speed.

My question is are the bubbles more noticeable at high pump speeds or low pump speeds?

 

[mknauss]

Easier to see at low pump speed.