IntelliChlor Flow and Temperature Sensor FAILED

[RMcGirr83]

Build a shade structure, drill a hole, filter cleaning....did everyone but me miss this part?

laziness is the ultimate factor in deciding what to do

 

[Arizonarob]

Unfortunately laziness is a side effect of the “hobby” he has.

 

[the_sphynx]

Thought I would provide my recent experience with this in this thread so it might help someone.
My pool was just handed over to me in December 2018 so still under warranty.
All of my Pentair equipment has 3yr warranty on the equipment since it was purchased with a filter/pump/swg at the same time

• I noticed on Sunday that the Flow light was red. All other lights green. Didn't think much of it and walked away.
• Water temp was low but in the mid-60's so warm enough for Chlorine to be generated.
• On Tuesday I noticed the same thing, Flow light on all others green.
• Went into the full ScreenLogic Connect client on my laptop.
• App showed 0ppm for salt. I had tested my salt level semi-recently and had 3,800ppm so I knew my salt didn't disappear.
• Called Pentair after seeing here there appears to be a rash of flow switch failures.
• Was on hold for 2 minutes, the tech totally understood what the issues was after explaining the situation.
• They had me create an account on Pentair's website and register my swg on it.
• Had to get the serial # for the cell (It's on the back side of the cell BTW).
• Entered that along with the Proof of Purchase on their website
• Today (2 days later) the Pentair warranty tech showed up and replaced the flow switch

Works like it's intended to now!
Before/After screenshots below along with pic of the SWG in the "failed" state

 

[Jimrahbe]

Brian,

If the flow light is on, the SWCG will never calibrate and the salt reading will be zero. It cannot measure the salt level unless the flow light is green..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JoyfulNoise]

I just got all my parts on Amazon but did not have time yet to do the thermistor hack. Planning on Saturday. I did get my SWG running again though by adding 40lbs of softener salt. My salinity was at 2700ppm (K-1766) and so it was definitely low to begin with so the dead thermistor only exacerbated the false low. After bumping it up to 3000ppm, my IntelliChlor started generating again even though the diagnostic check still shows a dead thermistor (all flashing LEDs). But, because the water temp is 76F the salinity readout from the IC was 2950ppm since the system defaults to a temperature of 76F when the thermistor is dead. So the IC is totally fine, it’s simply the dead thermistor causing bogus readings (except when the water temp is 75F).

Like I said, I have all the parts to do the hack and bypass the flow switch thermistor. Just working up the energy to get off the couch and do it ....

 

[bdavis466]

I just got all my parts on Amazon but did not have time yet to do the thermistor hack. Planning on Saturday. I did get my SWG running again though by adding 40lbs of softener salt. My salinity was at 2700ppm (K-1766) and so it was definitely low to begin with so the dead thermistor only exacerbated the false low. After bumping it up to 3000ppm, my IntelliChlor started generating again even though the diagnostic check still shows a dead thermistor (all flashing LEDs). But, because the water temp is 76F the salinity readout from the IC was 2950ppm since the system defaults to a temperature of 76F when the thermistor is dead. So the IC is totally fine, it’s simply the dead thermistor causing bogus readings (except when the water temp is 75F).

Like I said, I have all the parts to do the hack and bypass the flow switch thermistor. Just working up the energy to get off the couch and do it ....

 

[Arizonarob]

 

[JoyfulNoise]

UNTRUE!!!! I don’t drink Bud Light!

 

[Arizonarob]

I couldn’t find a cat with your preferred beverage...