InteliChlor IC20 Full Output Issue

[mizzamouse]

Hi,

I'm battling a low (to no) FC level in my pool. After a party, I turned the IC20 to "full output". This didn't help bring the FC up, so I ran it again the next day. Since then, the IC20 is stuck on full output and hasn't stopped (But I also don't think it's producing any chlorine since my levels are still extremely low, even after manually adding liquid chlorine)

Has anyone seen this problem with the IC20? I have the pool builder coming out on Wednesday but thought I'd post the question to the group. I've even tried powering off the breaker and powering back on again.

Thanks!


Latest test results (Pool store results, still waiting on TF Kit)

FC - 1.73
TC - 2.15
CC - 0.42
PH - 7.4
Hardness - 178PPM
Alkalinity - 105PPM
CA - 36PPM
Copper - 0PPM
Iron - 0PPM
Phosphate - 3980PPB
Salt - 3800


I've added almost 2 gallons of liquid chlorine today trying to bring to shock level, and bringing the water for testing to the pool store daily until my kit comes in.

 

[LFrankow]

Hello, Welcome to TFP
You are doing ok, how does your water look, still clear hopefully.
Keep adding enough bleach to add 3-4 ppm to your water each day until your kit arrives. Use the poolmath link above, make sure the bleach is less then 90 days old and put the correct strength of it into the pool calc.
When your kit arrives post a full set of numbers.

 

[mizzamouse]

Thanks @LFrankow!

The water definitely looks much better than it did the other day! (Green, Cloudy, and gross!). This morning it was blue, and I can see the bottom! Manually adding the liquid chlorine certainly helped. It did have some algae (i think) on the bottom of the pool that I did vacuum out. I backwashed twice in the past 2 days since the pressure was so high. Overall, the pool is coming back to life.

I'll definitely post the results tomorrow when the kit comes in. I did put chlorine pucks in the skimmer (as recommended by the builder) until the pool builder can look at the SWG.

I'm hopeful that the SWG is not broken. I'm on hold with Pentair right now to see if they've seen the issue with the 100% output lights not turning off.

 

[Jimrahbe]

mm,

I really doubt there is anything wrong with your IC20.. Except it is way..... way undersized for your pool. We recommend always installing a cell that is at least 2 x the pool volume. In your case an IC40 would have been much better size. It is working for you mainly due to your location..

I see two issues... one, is that with a CYA level of only 36 ppm, you will use much more chlorine than if you were in the recommended range of 70 to 80 ppm...

The other issue is that you may be on the verge of an algae outbreak, so your pool is basically consuming all the chlorine the cell is producing as well as the extra Liquid Chlorine.

I recommend that when you get your test kit you perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.. (OCLT). Here are the instructions... Overnight Chlorine Loss Test The only hard part is getting your rear out of bed before sunrise...

If the OCLT shows a loss of more than 1 ppm, then you will need to perform what we call a SLAM... SLAM Process

Hang in there until your kit arrives.. If me, I'd add a jug of bleach a day until then..

Thanks for posting,

Jim R.

 

[elwood58]

You could try resetting the IC-20 by throwing the circuit breaker to your pool pad.

 

[LapPoolMike]

Mouse,
TFP recommends a CYA (Cyanuric Acid) level of 70-80ppm when running a SWCG, so if yours CA=36ppm, you're about 40ppm low. Also if your pool is 18k gallons, the IC20 may be undersized unless you're running it close to 24hrs/day.

If it was my pool, I'd raise the CYA to 70-80ppm by hanging CYA stuffed (with the proper amount) tube socks in front of the pool returns to dissolve. Then I would raise the FC to 5-6ppm (see TFP Chlorine / CYA chart) using liquid chlorine. Then I would ask the pool builder to adjust IC20 output/run time so that it will keep the FC stable. This may mean running the cell/pump for longer, or if that's not acceptable, moving up to the IC40 cell. TFP recommends sizing the cell at least 2x your pool size.

I'm in the same boat, my pool is 30k gallons and my PB installed the IC40. I have to run it at 100% for 9 hours/day to keep my FC ~ 6ppm (with CYA ~ 80ppm).

 

[LFrankow]

Pucks will add chlorine and a bit of CYA or CH depending if they are di or tri chlor.
I have a story to tell you, it happened to me not once but twice, two years in a row.
About 5 years ago it got to being July and of course hotter then all get out. Round about the third week in July I noticed during daily checks that all of a sudden my SWG just wasn't keeping up. OMG what to do what to do, major panic mode, checked the cell, cleaned it made sure the electronics were working right, upped the run time. Then I came back here and put myself back into pool school, because I must have missed something. And there it was the recommended CYA for a SWG is not 30 or 50ppm as my Intex manuals had told me but 60-80. I noted this in my log corrected my CYA levels and things went smoothly the rest of the season.
The very next year same week in July same thing happened again, I had just finished cleaning the cell with vinegar when it dawned on me this was a repeat performance of last year, sure enough re read my old log, upped my CYA and things got nice.
I was going to tell you this earlier, but I had visions of you running off and raising your unknown CYA.
So only bleach for now, and a log book is a very valuable tool. I used to keep mine on my laptop, but when I am out of town so is my laptop, I have gone to the old reliable notebook near the testkit. Date, pool temp am + pm, daily weather are the first things I input. After that test results and anything I do to the pool that day.

 

[LapPoolMike]

I did put chlorine pucks in the skimmer (as recommended by the builder) until the pool builder can look at the SWG.

I wouldn't run those pucks in the skimmer for too long. If the pump goes off at night, a high concentration of the puck chemicals can build up in skimmer, and risk damage to equipment when pump comes back on. Better solution would be a puck floater for the pool, probably pick one up at pool store for less than 10 bucks, may be good to have also if you go on vacation.

 

[LapPoolMike]

Honestly, I would have a discussion with your builder and let him know that the IC20 sizing for 20,000 gallons is based on the unit (and your pump) running 24 hours/day, this is in the manual. I would ask him did he expect you to have to run your pump for 24 hours/day? If not, he should have specified the IC40. I'd make him prove to you that the IC20 will work with your pool.

 

[mizzamouse]

Thanks, everyone!

I just got off the phone with Pentair support. I was able to stop the 100% output simply by pressing the 100% output combo again for 3 seconds! (How dumb did I feel!)

The comments about an undersized IC20 are spot on! The Pentair rep said the same thing and recommended that when it comes time to replace the cell, upgrade to the IC40.

I did ask about what he thought about the CYA recommendations being 30-50 in the manual. He wasn't trained on that and couldn't provide any feedback, but he said he heard the same thing I was saying about increasing that to 60-80. When my test kit comes, that is something I will be doing (already purchased the product from Ocean State Job Lot) I'm thinking this might be a reason why I'm losing chlorine so quickly. The pucks should increase that a bit until I can add CYA.

Though it's not a proper OCLT test, results from yesterdays pool store test dropped 1.25PPM in FC. And CC up .15ppm

Thanks for all the quick responses!

- - - Updated - - -

Hey @LapPoolMike!

Thanks for that suggestion! I'll definitely keep that in mind. For the time being, i'm running the pump 24x7 because the pool is recovering from being in such rough shape. Normally I only run 12-14 hours.

Thank god for solar panels!

 

[LFrankow]

Recapping:
The order of business should be
Manually add chlorine daily until testkit arrives.
Once you know your CYA level go to the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart, find the correct shock level for your present CYA level, if needed adjust ph to 7.2-7.6 then proceed to SLAM using bleach
Once you pass the OCLT and your cc is less then .5 and your water is clear, then adjust your CYA to the 60-80 range, I aim for 60 and end at 70 slowly sneaking up on the 70ppm #

 

[mizzamouse]

Recapping:
The order of business should be
Manually add chlorine daily until testkit arrives.
Once you know your CYA level go to the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart, find the correct shock level for your present CYA level, if needed adjust ph to 7.2-7.6 then proceed to SLAM using bleach
Once you pass the OCLT and your cc is less then .5 and your water is clear, then adjust your CYA to the 60-80 range, I aim for 60 and end at 70 slowly sneaking up on the 70ppm #

Thanks @LFrankow!

Just to confirm, my CYA levels are definitely below 60-80 right now (36ppm). So I was going to use the Pool Math Calculator, enter my CYA in the "NOW" field, my current FC, and see the what the shock level should be there. Once I get my CC down below .5, then I was going to add CYA to get me to the 60-70 #.

Sound right?

And if my FC is between say 2-5, I'm assuming it's safe to swim?

Thanks, guys!

 

[LFrankow]

Well the 36 say 40 as you always round your CYA reading up to the nearest ten, is a pool store number, so not real reliable. I would stay the course keep adding enough bleach to add 3-4 ppm of bleach to an 18,000 gal pool.
Then when you have your kit and find your CYA number go to the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart, say for example your CYA is actually 40, shock level for your pool would be 16 ppm. Then you go to pool math, enter your CYA, FC and PH numbers, strength of bleach and volume of pool, calculate will give you the amount of bleach to add, once added test about a half an hour later to confirm.
It is safe to swim in once FC is below shock level.