Installing ProTek Shield on Raypak
- Thread starter Sidemoves
- Start date
Yours is the newer style of bond lug on that motor. Just insert the wire under the 1/4" screw (bottom screw) and tighten it down.
@JamesW does your “like” mean the bonding is good to go as is? Hah
- May 23, 2015
- 25,718
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I think what you have will work fine from an electrical bonding standpoint.
BUT ....
... the OCD-Nerd in me would have done it differently. I would not have two bonding points on the heater. I would have simply gotten a piece of #8 bare copper wire and I would have run that wire from the connector on the bottom of the ProTek Shield to the bare copper wire running to the bottom lug of the heater and I would have connected it using a brass split-bolt connector. Electrically it's no different, but visually I hate the look of random insulated wires running all over the place. Nothing says "bonding wire" to the pool tech's eye like a run of bare #8 copper.
Just add it to the punch list of "important things I plan to (never) get to when I have time ..."
BUT ....
... the OCD-Nerd in me would have done it differently. I would not have two bonding points on the heater. I would have simply gotten a piece of #8 bare copper wire and I would have run that wire from the connector on the bottom of the ProTek Shield to the bare copper wire running to the bottom lug of the heater and I would have connected it using a brass split-bolt connector. Electrically it's no different, but visually I hate the look of random insulated wires running all over the place. Nothing says "bonding wire" to the pool tech's eye like a run of bare #8 copper.
Just add it to the punch list of "important things I plan to (never) get to when I have time ..."
Makes sense. Good to know it’s functional for now. I’ll change it out in a couple weeks. Thanks for all the help!