Installing Easytouch 4 - Electrical Question

It is 1/2" conduit. If just pulling 4 #10 wires to replace the 3 #12 and 2 #14, then hopefully it would pull?

You can put up to 5 10 gauge wires in a 1/2 inch conduit.

Put a 30 amp 240V CB in your main panel and then four 10 gauge wires connect to your ET for 2 hots, neutral, and ground. Two black, white, green THWN wires. Now it is done right.
 
Depends how the conduit is run, length, number of bends.

Lots of tips on the net and youtube videos.

It takes more then one person and patience.
 
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One last thing (for now), and excuse some ignorance. Do I need stranded or solid? I see THHN, is that the same? I see some THHN is rated for wet and dry and some is rated just dry. Obviously I need the wet/dry one. Just seems like they market it as THHN.
 
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Thank you both. Ill stop saying one last thing.

Right now, they have romex run from the main, through the attic, then out of the soffit(entering into conduit at this point) running vertically down the exterior wall, into a junction box where it switches to THWN and continues in the conduit into the concrete to the pad.

Can THWN be run loose through my attic, or should I follow suit and run romex(NM-B?) from the main to the junction box, and switch over there?
 
Do not run loose wire. Run a 10-3 romex through your house, through the conduit sleeve to the junction box.

I hate to tell you but you may want to get an electrician to help you out. Maybe you know someone that can just help you with the connections and guide you through it. It may save you or someone you loves life.
 
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As I said, the devil is in the details. Things are often not as simple as they seem.

That conduit outside from the soffit to the junction box is a wet location. Romex is not allowed in wet locations. The inside of conduit in a wet location is considered a wet location. There should be a junction box inside the attic where it transitions from Romex to THWN in conduit running outside.
 
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Thanks for all your input. I replaced the wire this weekend with 10 gauge and got everything but the pool lights wired and running. Attaching picture just because.

Question: I bought a GFCI breaker for my 2 speed pump motor, however, it does not have a neutral wire running to it. In that case, it isn't GFCI protected correct? I essentially wasted $90?
 

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Thanks for all your input. I replaced the wire this weekend with 10 gauge and got everything but the pool lights wired and running. Attaching picture just because.

Question: I bought a GFCI breaker for my 2 speed pump motor, however, it does not have a neutral wire running to it. In that case, it isn't GFCI protected correct? I essentially wasted $90?

Why is there no neutral wire? You should have replaced the wire with 4 - 10AWG wires (to include a ground). So 3 insulated conductors and a bare conductor for ground.

You should have L1, L2, Neutral as well as a Ground, all coming from the main panel into the ET sub-panel.
 
Why is there no neutral wire? You should have replaced the wire with 4 - 10AWG wires (to include a ground). So 3 insulated conductors and a bare conductor for ground.

You should have L1, L2, Neutral as well as a Ground, all coming from the main panel into the ET sub-panel.

Sorry for the confusion, the ET definitely has a neutral. The pump doesnt take a neutral. It takes L1, L2(low), L2(high), and ground.
 
Sorry for the confusion, the ET definitely has a neutral. The pump doesnt take a neutral. It takes L1, L2(low), L2(high), and ground.

Correct, the neutral on a GFCI breaker doesn't go to the load device, it goes to the neutral bus, back to the source.

May I suggest you have someone knowledgeable look over your work, just to be sure you've wired everything correctly? Any chance you have a friend/family member who could give you a 2nd set of eyes on the whole thing?

1597076332085.png
 
Have not read the entire post, but looking at your pic, is your ET powered from the bottom breaker? Looks like your feed form your main goes to the breaker and not the feed lugs. I guess that would work, just not sure if that would be to code. If it was wired to the lugs, you would free up breaker space. Maybe my eyes are deceiving me. Or is there a reason it was wired that way?
 
Have not read the entire post, but looking at your pic, is your ET powered from the bottom breaker? Looks like your feed form your main goes to the breaker and not the feed lugs. I guess that would work, just not sure if that would be to code. If it was wired to the lugs, you would free up breaker space. Maybe my eyes are deceiving me. Or is there a reason it was wired that way?

Line from main goes to the lugs. The bottom breaker is for surge.
 
Correct, the neutral on a GFCI breaker doesn't go to the load device, it goes to the neutral bus, back to the source.

The curly is on the neutral bus. I was concerned by not having a load neutral(middle connector on breaker) connected to the GFCI breaker that it wouldn't work. However, yours doesn't have a load neutral either.
 

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