Initial chlorine addition didn't take?

[bjaspan]

I think I'm almost there!

Easy Set 12' x 30", 1485 gallons. I put the water in two days ago. I added 8.9 oz CYA last night via the sock method and it is mostly dissolved (with lots of sock squeezing).

This morning, pH read as 7.6, so I did nothing for that. Next up, chlorine. Pool Math app defaults to suggesting 6 ppm and for me said to add 9.1 oz of 12.5% bleach. Wanting to start slowly, I added 4 oz, and got a reading on my K-1000 test kit of about 1 ppm. Then I noticed that Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools - Trouble Free Pool says to target 4 ppm, not 6 ppm , which the Pool Math app says means I should add 6.1 oz starting from zero. I decided to split the difference and since I'd already added 4 oz, I added 4 oz more. Now, the K-1000 test kit still gives a Chlorine reading of 1 ppm. Do I add more chlorine?

Also, I noticed that the plastic measuring box in the K-1000 test kit only reads up to 5 on the chlorine scale. Do other test kits have higher readings? I wouldn't be able to target 6 ppm with this kit that only goes up to 4 ppm.

Thanks!

 

[Cwiggs]

The K-1000 only has an OTO test for FC, which only measures up to 5ppm, and isn't very accurate. You can read more about the recommended test kits here: Test Kits Compared - Trouble Free Pool

 

[drsipe]

I hate to say this, but if you filled the pool two days ago and you just added chlorine now, you probably have an algae problem already.

On a new fill, the water has little to no chlorine, depending on the water source. Chlorine should be the first thing added, and can even be added while the pool is filling. CYA is important, because without CYA the UV light will destroy all the chlorine fast, but it is secondary to chlorine, without sufficient chlorine in the water, algae and other biologicals will take over.

You could perform an overnight chlorine loss test, which would prove or disprove that you have algae, and if you do have algae, the sooner you start a SLAM, the faster you can beat the algae, or as mknauss points out below in the guide for seasonal pools, you could drain, clean and refill.

Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT)

The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tells if the SLAM is finished or if you need to start a SLAM. This article says how to do the OCLT.

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[mknauss]

@Cwiggs @drsipe
It is just fine to manage a Seasonal pool of small size with just the two way TC/pH test kit. Anything goes wrong, the pool is drained.
Read Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools - Trouble Free Pool

 

[drsipe]

@Cwiggs @drsipe
It is just fine to manage a Seasonal pool of small size with just the two way TC/pH test kit. Anything goes wrong, the pool is drained.
Read Guide for Seasonal/Temporary Pools - Trouble Free Pool

Thank you for the correction

 

[bjaspan]

My pool top and walls were covered with a tight-fitting opaque tarp basically 100% of the time from when it was filled two days ago until I added chlorine today. Does that affect how likely it is that I already have an algae problem?

 

[Vickery]

The two main depleters of chlorine are sunlight and organics. While the cover kept the sunlight from reaching it, organics: pollen, airborne algae, dust, etc, is everywhere. So, yes you could already have an algae bloom started, even if you can't see it. But getting your chemistry right can fix it. As Marty indicated, a seasonal pool may not require a sophisticated test kit, but it will still need attention. I use the OTO kit regularly just as a check that my swg is keeping up with the sun and rains this year. I'll use the DPD for start up and severe flooding, but just watch how yellow the chlorine side is. (Don't go for orange!) If you plan to keep the pool covered most of the time, it won't take long to be ahead of the algae.