INEXPERIENCED OB Steel wall vinyl liner inground pool under construction in north texas

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I have that cable, it came with my Hayward pump. Are you sure yours did not come with it? It may still be in the box.
If not, I do not have automation so I’m not using it. So, you can have this one if you cannot find yours. Just pay for the shipping and I’ll send it to you.
 

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I love this place!
Share Sharing GIF by stellar247
 
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Caro325 said:
what is a good schedule for a variable speed pump
Click to expand...
That's trial and error unfortunately. Find the lowest speed that the weir doors are bobbing away, and that turns on the SWG, and heater. Add 100 Rpms to each of those to account for reduced flow when the filter gets a bit dirty. Those are your functioning speeds. If you want to heat, run that speed for as long as you need. The same goes for the SWG and skimming. The higher speed function covers the other 2 by default.

1200 RPMs covers skimming and SWG for me but it's so cheap I splurge to 1500 for more water movement. It looks nicer with bigger ripples. Running 24/7 removes the need to fiddle with schedules and add more skimming time when the spring/fall crud is dropping. I cannot reccomend it enough. Or. Trial and error with run times at the speed of whichever function you're looking to do. :)
Caro325 said:
what percentage should I set my SWG to run????
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It appears your unit is roughly double the pool volume. In theory, 50% of 24 hours or any equivalent maths (12 hours 'on') would be about right in the peak season.

Dial it in a little on the hot side as you learn. So maybe 14.4 hours on with whatever maths you like better. At 24/7 pump runtime that would be 60% for example.

Test the FC daily to ensure you stay freeeeeeee and clear from minimum. I do NOT like that word at all. It sounds to okay-y for me. Rename it in your head to Swampville. If you test and find yourself 1 or 2 ppm above minimum, that's entering the city limits of Swampville.
 
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The average fc loss in an algae free residential pool is 2-5 ppm. At this time of year in your locale it is likely towards the 4-5ppm range. You need to have your swcg produce that much each day.
Here’s the max that cell will produce in your pool in 24 hours
IMG_7169.png
Here’s what 50% running 24/7 looks like
IMG_7170.png
You can play around with runtimes & percentages in
PoolMath effects of adding
The nice thing about a vsp is that you can run it at a lowish rpm around the clock for cheap so I would suggest that
 
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Did you ever test & confirm that you’re algae free? If not do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
at target fc levels FC/CYA Levels
to be sure as a swcg won’t overcome an algae problem. You need the
SLAM Process for that.

Also, If below target fc, You should always dose to target with liquid chlorine then adjust the swcg to maintain that fc level. You shouldn’t wait for the swcg to catch up - it takes too long & nasties grow & take hold in the meantime.
 
Mdragger88 said:
Did you ever test & confirm that you’re algae free? If not do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
at target fc levels FC/CYA Levels
to be sure as a swcg won’t overcome an algae problem. You need the
SLAM Process for that.

Also, If below target fc, You should always dose to target with liquid chlorine then adjust the swcg to maintain that fc level. You shouldn’t wait for the swcg to catch up - it takes too long & nasties grow & take hold in the meantime.
Click to expand...
yesterday I finally had the time to sit down and do all the testing as I didn't have to work. I measure in the morning so probably not valid already. I will test again this afternoon.

I got FC: 4.5 (I was running the SWG in supper chlorination mode, because I kept getting 0 fc, so I added a bunch of stabilizer and run it the swg
ph: 7.4
TA: 100
CH: 250
CYA: 30 (I think......I really don't understand this test.....add drops until you can't see the black dot........ what does that mean????)

I will test again, to see what I get.

I also check salinity, and with the test I got 3800 ppm, but my SWG says 2700...... what should I do about that???
 
Caro325 said:
yesterday I finally had the time to sit down and do all the testing as I didn't have to work. I measure in the morning so probably not valid already. I will test again this afternoon.
Click to expand...
The oclt needs to be done exactly as directed in the article- both tests in the dark & the swg off.
Caro325 said:
I got FC: 4.5 (I was running the SWG in supper chlorination mode, because I kept getting 0 fc, so I added a bunch of stabilizer and run it the swg
Click to expand...
No more cya until you are sure you don’t need to do the SLAM Process
BTW - “super chlorination” mode just runs the swg at 100% until the pump turns off or after 24hrs - whichever comes first. Which is roughly only .38 ppm of fc per hour in your pool. This is too slow & nasties proliferate in the meantime.
Also, If you don’t go back afterwards & change it back to normal operation mode it may not produce fc at all. You’re better off just setting it to 100% on regular instead.
From now on - When you are low on fc dose with liquid chlorine asap - then set the swg to maintain that. Don’t wait on the swg to play catch up.

Caro325 said:
ph: 7.4
TA: 100
CH: 250
CYA: 30 (I think......I really don't understand this test.....add drops until you can't see the black dot........ what does that mean????)
Click to expand...
It is a turbidity test.
You pour your mixture into the tube- if you have very high cya it will be very cloudy & the googly eye at the bottom will disappear from view quickly,
if you have lower cya it won’t disappear until you have filled the tube quite a bit .
Do this:
pour the liquid to a line and with the tube waist high just glance down into the tube, if you still see the dot go to the next line, glance, repeat until you don’t see the dot with a glance.
Don’t stare.
It’s best to do the cya test outdoors in bright sunlight. Back to the sun.
You can pour the solution back into the little squirty bottle & repeat the last part of the test as many times as you need to feel confident in your results.
Caro325 said:
I will test again, to see what I get.

I also check salinity, and with the test I got 3800 ppm, but my SWG says 2700...... what should I do about that???
Click to expand...
That’s fine - they will almost never match exactly. It also takes the swg 24 hours to “calibrate” itself after being turned on the first time or after adding salt.
 
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Mdragger88 said:
The oclt needs to be done exactly as directed in the article- both tests in the dark & the swg off.

No more cya until you are sure you don’t need to do the SLAM Process
BTW - “super chlorination” mode just runs the swg at 100% until the pump turns off or after 24hrs - whichever comes first. Which is roughly only .38 ppm of fc per hour in your pool. This is too slow & nasties proliferate in the meantime.
Also, If you don’t go back afterwards & change it back to normal operation mode it may not produce fc at all. You’re better off just setting it to 100% on regular instead.
From now on - When you are low on fc dose with liquid chlorine asap - then set the swg to maintain that. Don’t wait on the swg to play catch up.


It is a turbidity test.
You pour your mixture into the tube- if you have very high cya it will be very cloudy & the googly eye at the bottom will disappear from view quickly,
if you have lower cya it won’t disappear until you have filled the tube quite a bit .
Do this:
pour the liquid to a line and with the tube waist high just glance down into the tube, if you still see the dot go to the next line, glance, repeat until you don’t see the dot with a glance.
Don’t stare.
It’s best to do the cya test outdoors in bright sunlight. Back to the sun.
You can pour the solution back into the little squirty bottle & repeat the last part of the test as many times as you need to feel confident in your results.

That’s fine - they will almost never match exactly. It also takes the swg 24 hours to “calibrate” itself after being turned on the first time or after adding salt.
Click to expand...
thank you. I will try testing again today....... about the SWG salinity, I found a trouble shooting document on the web for the unit, and learned that I am supposed to reset it when it first stars (and save the value???), anyway, I did that this morning before work and it actually measured at 3,800 which was the correct amount............ just to be clear, once The amount of salt is correct in the pool I do NOT add anymore unless I add more water to the pool correct??? (Which with the heat wave here in north texas I have to do at least once per week :confused: )
 
Caro325 said:
thank you. I will try testing again today....... about the SWG salinity, I found a trouble shooting document on the web for the unit, and learned that I am supposed to reset it when it first stars (and save the value???), anyway, I did that this morning before work and it actually measured at 3,800 which was the correct amount............ just to be clear, once The amount of salt is correct in the pool I do NOT add anymore unless I add more water to the pool correct??? (Which with the heat wave here in north texas I have to do at least once per week :confused: )
Click to expand...
The salt level doesn’t change much unless you actually replace water from splashout or draining/backwashing. Replacing water lost to Evaporation doesn’t lower salt levels. The salt remains in the pool.
 
hey guys can somene please help me figure out what I need to buy in order to be able to monitor the pool control (Hayward PL-plus) on my phone (using the aquaconnect?????)???? I have gone through post all morning and I haven't been able to nail it down........ I know I need a "AQL2-BASE-RF " , but do I need anything else besides the app???? TIA
 

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Caro325 said:
hey guys can somene please help me figure out what I need to buy in order to be able to monitor the pool control (Hayward PL-plus) on my phone (using the aquaconnect?????)???? I have gone through post all morning and I haven't been able to nail it down........ I know I need a "AQL2-BASE-RF " , but do I need anything else besides the app???? TIA
Click to expand...
Do you have the installation manual?
 
hey guys.... I hope you are all having a good weekend...... I am slowly working on getting my backyard back from the destruction area that I created while building my pool, and I am hoping someone can give me some recommendations regarding outdoor lighting.... the backyard didn't have ANY lighting on it...... now that I have the pool, I need to put some lights. I want to find something that is bright enough but solar (as I don't have electricity running back there) any suggestions????
 
I have been eyeing these On Amazon
& These
I have the smaller version of the rectangle ones (first link) on my deck & in my equipment area but they’re a few years old & don’t all work now.
They were pretty bright so the bigger ones should be even brighter. The ones linked also have replaceable batteries.
 

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