Imagine Illusion 40 Complete 10/19/21

Not much better than seeing your hard work pay off such as those seeds sprouting!
Those sunflowers are almost a ft tall. No lie. I think that window has some kind of super plant power because my plants love it. This was on 3/27. They are bigger than that now!!!:oops:
 

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Anyone want to suggest how I can fix my slide hose myself? I'm not looking forward to the wait I'm being placed on and I want it done so my girl can use it in a couple weeks. PB cut it to winterize so I'd like to be able to winterize it for future closings.
 

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I have used these in the past to repair garden hose, one female and one male would allow you to unscrew the section to winterize.
They also make these in plastic, but the brass holds up better. They should be available in local HW store in the hose section.
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Exactly that. Or a sprinkler pipe fitting and 2 hose clamps if the two halves still reach.
I'd guess 3/4 would work.

Even if it leaks a little, so what ? Turn it off when you're done sliding. The PB can then come whenever and make it right.
 
That looks to be about 5/8 to 3/4 inch hose??

This should work great..

1 side gets the male and 1 side gets the female than connect them using the quick connect.. A disconnect for the winter and easily connected back for summer.. :)


 
So I love some Pentair for the quality but it is more expensive.. It really will depend on the builder as most are locked into a certain company, Pentair, Hayward or Jandy..

I agree with @Jimrahbe I have a Clean and Clear Plus 320, A little smaller than his and love it, clean it once a year... Have them pipe in a 3 way valve off the return of the pump so you can lower the water when you need to (if you do not get an auto filler and overfill) You can see how I did mine :)

Did you spray paint all the pipes and equipment except the pumps?

I like the look, what color and type of paint did you use?
 

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Did you spray paint all the pipes and equipment except the pumps?

I like the look, what color and type of paint did you use?
I used Plasti dip and there are tons of colors.. :)


This is just black and works great for most everything

This is the color I chose..
 
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I did not find what I was looking for n ended up asking my builder to come over after Easter to please fix it. He said he would.

I just got a quote for more concrete. I was just going to extend the concrete 10 more feet out and right before he got here, I said I may as well go the whole way so this is a quick drawl up of what I'm planning. I'll have to have a portion of the fence removed ( I already called my fence guy who's coming out next weekend). Red square is my hot tub placement. I need the space to have room for my furniture. I may as well. I think it'll look nice.

You can see how bad my pool yard looks. The seed didn't take well at all there.
 

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I started landscaping too. I got the solar cover hooked up to the reel I put together yesterday too. I'm so glad to see it all coming together.
 

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2 thoughts.

1) The stand alone spa serves a whole different purpose than a built in. It's more for you than it is for entertaining. But even if you did have friends over 'to hot tub', it would likely be *not pool* time of year. So my vote is to put it by the house because you'll have less distance to run back inside in February, and you will have some sort of privacy not being out in the middle of the yard.

2) love love LOOOOOOOVE the reclaimed backwash pipe from Jerk Jerkson in post # 753
 
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The closer the stand alone hot tub to the back door the better.. It is not bad coming from the hot tub back inside.. It is painful going from a 70 degree house and going outside in skivies when it is 0 degrees, getting the top of the hot tub, hitting the motors and bubbles and then climbing in to the most AWESOME 104 degree hot water and your hair freezes :)
 
2) love love LOOOOOOOVE the reclaimed backwash pipe from Jerk Jerkson.
I have about 200ft of it wrapped up in the shed that's not being used. Just think... if he wasn't such a jerk... he could have had a huge piece of it. But nooooooooo.... he was Jerk Jerkson and you don't get rewarded for being such a jerk!!! :mrgreen:
 
I'm looking at the manual for my Jandy heater for chemical levels. Says it wants a minimum of 175 ppm of calcium up to 400ppm. I'm at 150ppm. Should I bump it up and if so, can I soak the calcium in a different sock to get it into the water? I dont want it laying on the pool floor.
 
I woudl raise your CH to 200 ppm

From Calcium Hardness - Further Reading

Direct fired gas heaters tend to build up a thin layer of calcium carbonate on their internal surfaces over time. This thin layer acts as a barrier to physical metal erosion (from high flow rates of water) and chemical attack (from accidental pH drop). However, this film is not indestructible and it can come and go over time depending on CH and pH levels.

This does not apply to Heat Pumps, electric heaters, or solar heaters.

Low CH inhibits this film formation and leaves the internal metal surfaces more exposed to pool water. There is no way to precisely assess the quality of this scale layer but having some CH will assure that it is present.[1]

Very high CH can lead to thick and flaky scale formation inside the heat exchanger that can be highly detrimental to it. The coils can get plugged up with scale which can lead to over-boiling of the water, banging or knocking sounds, and/or a plugged up header/bypass. All of these can shorten the life of a heater and lead to less efficient heating. See this thread for what scale can do to a heater.

Keeping the CH around the minimum recommended value, ~ 200ppm, seems to be a reasonable compromise between the formation and maintenance of a thin scale layer and low risk of boiler scale.

Chronically low CH leaves the heater more susceptible to chemical attack should the other chemical levels get out of range.
 
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