I’m here-got my test kit and everything

joshuaj1975

Well-known member
Jun 10, 2022
89
Mesa Az
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
New to tfp. First off I’ve had many pools living in Az and every one acted different. I never really got as involved as you all have made me(thank you). Heck I even had a job doing pool service when I was 19 and that’s exactly why I don’t want someone coming to take care of MY pool! Fast forward to my current pool. I have lived in this house for 6years and have never had a problem. Reason being that the entire 100% of the water was shaded all the time. (No joke I think I’m the only one that had to run my heater in the middle of our 110+ summers). We’ll did some backyard updating and decided to get rid of the shade. We will put up some smaller removable sails soon. But nothing like before.

This is before tfp.

So with the backyard updating we had the pool acid washed and the sand changed out as well. Upon completion and getting the new water filled and what not it’s been about 1.5 months. At first it seemed fine, then started getting cloudy with a fine dust whiteish in pool and brownish in spa even though they run on the same system. After checking everything- test from the pool store - add this add that- I decided to check my laterals and sure enough the guy that did it didnt get 3 of the laterals folded into the down position. So I did that and added 2 more bags of sand. He said he put in 500 and if true I probably lost 20lbs when removing and added the 2 bags so I would say somewhere in the neighborhood of 560-580# sand. Pump psi is around 15-16 the same as before doing any of this. I’d let the pool run without the vacuum and it would start clearing up. Run the vacuum and it started getting cloudy. Look to be just flipping up the stuff that settled to the bottom. After about 5 days the cloudy mess seems to have been filter out pretty good, thought I would need to vacuum to waste or try de. My readings from my first test are as follows

Test kit: k-2006c
FC: 6
CC:0
PH:7.4
TA:50
CYA:50
CH:260

Pool is clearing up but still has a light greenish blue tint.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

I think I have my signature set up right.

And no I am not using anymore Chloe tabs(maybe on vacation) the floaters are empty and will be coming out.

Thanks
 

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Joshua.... are you using Liquid Chlorine daily, or perhaps a salt water chlorine generator (SWG)?? You don't mention?

I'm wondering if your FC hasn't dipped into the danger level enough times to allow algae to move in? Your absolute minimum FC level is 4pp,,. bur ideally you want to aim for 6-8 ppm of FC. That allows you to lose some to the sun and bathers yet still be over your minimum.
Remember that the sun *will* burn off some FC daily even with CYA holding some FC in check.

Base your FC on the level of your CYA --> FC/CYA Levels

Bump your FC up and see if that helps. If it doesn't we can get more aggressive.
One way to determine if you have algae is to perform an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test --> Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Maddie ☮️
 
Liquid chlorine 10%. I’ve been bringing up the fc from the pool stores 1-3 ppm. I’ll get it up a little more. I’ll perform oclt tonight. And post results.

I just noticed my sprinkler was spraying low, found the sock on the skimmer had caught some dirt debris. Replaced that and backwashed and also turned the valve to bypass my heater (16psi when water is flowing through the heater) and now have a new clean psi. Of 10.

Thanks.
 
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I’ll perform oclt tonight. And post results.
If you visibly see the pool is off.
If the expected FC is off.
If you have a feeling something is off

OCLTs are free and easy. Prolonged SLAMs because you waited to long are costly and time consuming.

If you pass your OCLT, we have time to fiddle and figure out whatever else is wrong, and it wont become a swamp while we do.

Oooooh and please forgive my terrible manners, Welcome to TFP !!!
 
If you visibly see the pool is off.
If the expected FC is off.
If you have a feeling something is off

OCLTs are free and easy. Prolonged SLAMs because you waited to long are costly and time consuming.

If you pass your OCLT, we have time to fiddle and figure out whatever else is wrong, and it wont become a swamp while we do.

Oooooh and please forgive my terrible manners, Welcome to TFP !!!
Pool is “off” but had that “just hasn’t come around” feel yet-seems to be improving for sure.

Fc has been good since adding the new water and start up. Just in the 1-3 range cause of the store. Just started coming up since I learned about effects of cya.

Every time I had a feeling I found someone/something else to blame-lol!!

Hope I don’t have to slam.
 
Every time I had a feeling I found someone/something else to blame-lol!!
We get it. We were there too. So lemme tell ya. When given the choice to be proactive or reactive, chose to do it on your terms. Even if you have to SLAM, it's an easier battle. You could spend a week or more just to get back to where you should have pulled the trigger in the first place and *then* have that fight.

We'll get you there. Report back in the morning.
 
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OCLT test last night showed me that there is no algae. Way less than 1ppm loss if any!

Pool is looking way better. Gonna get my chlorine up a little towards the 7-8ppm. Run the filter all weekend and maybe even throw a little de in to see how much clearer I can get it.

Side note of the heater. Does the psi. Go up when pushing water through the heater because of the smaller tubing it needs to go through…? The heater is new and the psi. Was always the same at 16psi. Until I used the bypass and the psi. Went down to 10psi.
 
+1. The cloudiness could be any combo of dead algae or pollen that still needs to be filtered out. With no overnight FC loss, maintaining SLAM FC will be much easier and keep your defenses up just in case, until the pool is clear and you pass an OCLT at that time.

Clean the filter at 25% PSI increase over the clean value. Brush and vac daily in case the is algae hiding under the biofilm it grows to protect itself from harsh environments.

You are basically starting your SLAM at the ending stages of a normal one. Take the win and see it though.
 
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I have a bypass valve that I’ve never used before until yesterday. Once I cut the flow through the heater is when the pressure really dropped from 16 to 10
I think you’re kind of right when I open the by pass valve water flows through easier but I think water can still go through the heater just not at the same force as opposed to that bypass valve be closed. If That makes sense
 

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