- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,109
- Pool Size
- 26000
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- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Im drowning and I cant get it right
- Thread starter SeanThePoolFreshman
- Start date
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,109
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- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Before y’all freak out - they are soft like silicone. Everyone can’t clean their ears with liquids due to holes in their eardrums. I have had to use these (carefully) on my daughter for her whole life- she’s waxy 
i also have an led pen light/tool combo.
**disclaimer** this is not a substitute for real medical advice…
i also have an led pen light/tool combo.**disclaimer** this is not a substitute for real medical advice…
Orion7319
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,442
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- 19775
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- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Orion7319
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,442
- Pool Size
- 19775
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- Vinyl
- Chlorine
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- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Poor kid! I got to take my kid to the ENT office later this month. He keeps getting clogged up with pressure in his ears. Not fun!Before y’all freak out - they are soft like silicone. Everyone can’t clean their ears with liquids due to holes in their eardrums. I have had to use these (carefully) on my daughter for her whole life- she’s waxy
**disclaimer** this is not a substitute for real medical advice…
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,109
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
She’s almost 16- & has had tubes since she was 2. Sadly, we are pros w/ the wax. Don’t worry, it’s not the norm. Most kids only have to do it once. She just happens to have congenital ear, nose, & throat problems & will need vent tubes the rest of her life.
jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
- Pool Size
- 21000
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- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I like the Jandy NeverLube valves. They are a bit pricey. This is the CMP version of the same things. Interestingly, Zodiac owns both Jandy and CMP now.
For the diverter (3-way valve), I'd suggest this:
CMP Pool and Spa 3-Way Diverter Valve, 2" Inside, 2-1/2" Outside, Slip - 25913-204-000 - INYOPools.com
CMP 3 Way Pool Diverter Valve 2" Inside 2.5" Outside
www.inyopools.com
For the main return check valve, I'd suggest this:
CMP Check Valve, 2" Inside 2-1/2" Outside, 1/2 lb. Spring - 25830-814-000 - INYOPools.com
CMP Check Valve 1-1/2" Inside 2" Outside 1/2 Lb. - 25830-814-000
www.inyopools.com
Note that both of those are made such that you can plumb with 2" PVC pipe into the socket, or 2.5" PVC fittings to the outside of it. They also have 1.5/2" versions, and 2.5"/3" versions of all these.
For the Stop valve, you could either use a 2-way diverter:
CMP 2 Way Diverter Valve, 2" Inside, 2.5" Outside - 25912-204-000 - INYOPools.com
"Diverter Valve,Hydroseal,2"",2 Way,2""Socket x 2-1/2"" Spg" (25912-204) - Pool & Spa Parts
www.inyopools.com
Buy 2" PVC True Union Ball Valve - Socket & Threaded Ends
2 in. PVC True Union Ball Valve with Socket (ANSI) and Threaded (NPT) Ends. Easy to install and use - now available at a great discount price!
www.pvcfittingsonline.com
I wouldn't suggest the single-union ball valves or the non-union ball valves. You want something that you can service if need be.
Of course you can use the Jandy-style valves I've noted above on the suction side as well.
For the waterfall, I'm not sure what size tubing / hose you have there, but I'm going to assume it's 1". If different, just change size of parts as needed.
I would come out of that diverter to a 2" to 1" reducer bushing: 2" x 1" Sch 40 PVC Reducer Bushing Flush Style - Spig x Soc 437-249 (can easily find at Lowe's / HD)
and into a unioned check valve like this:
1" PVC True Union Swing Check Valve - Soc (S1720-10) - PVC Fittings Online (can also probably find similar at Lowe's / HD)
Then from that to whatever kind of fitting you need to adapt to your hose. Maybe a barbed fitting with a hose clamp? I don't know, I haven't done a water slide.
For your pump, I would use these high-temp unions. The reason for high-temp is if the pump were to run dry, they won't melt.
Amazon.com: Swimables 2" Hi-Temp Union for All Pentair Whisperflo and Intelliflo Pumps for Inground Swimming Pool 21063-200-000-2" MIP x 2" Slip PVC - Made in USA - 2 Pack : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Amazon.com: Swimables 2" Hi-Temp Union for All Pentair Whisperflo and Intelliflo Pumps for Inground Swimming Pool 21063-200-000-2" MIP x 2" Slip PVC - Made in USA - 2 Pack : Patio, Lawn & Garden
smile.amazon.com
Then for your multiport, just find some good unions that will work for you. If you can afford it, buy an extra 1 or 2 because unions are not standardized...every manufacturer uses different sizes and threads. It's annoying to try and find a replacement down the road.
Hope that helps.
I'm an aerospace engineer by education, and a systems engineer (mostly on electronics, with some mechanical concerns, and software) by vocation. I replumbed my entire equipment pad years ago. I did a good enough job that when I was getting quotes to upgrade the gas line for my heater, the plumbing foreman offered me a job (seriously) on the spot when he learned I'd plumbed my pool pad. His comment was that he rarely saw even professionals lay that many fittings out so neatly and precisely & not leave a single drip of glue or primer. Now, 15 years later, it needs to be done again--the deep freeze last year broke a lot of stuff due to losing power for so long & being unable to drain everything in time. So it's currently a (functional) patchwork of repairs.
Orion7319
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,442
- Pool Size
- 19775
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Mine is 13. Last couple of months he’s been put on steroids four times because his right ear keeps backing up. It drives him nuts. Not sure if he will need tubes or what. I feel for your daughter, doesn’t sound like fun.
Orion7319
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,442
- Pool Size
- 19775
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
How cool! My oldest is in college studying computer engineering now. Kid has always breezed through math that’s way over my head. Good news was he never needed my help with his homework! They got him working on some AI research project right now…. Hopefully he doesn’t create Sky net….
For the OP, the only thing I can offer is that PVC work is fairly straight forward. Just make sure your cuts are as straight as possible and dry fit everything before gluing anything.
jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
- Pool Size
- 21000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Also realize that dry fit won't go in as deep as the actual glue job. I make sure to measure the socket depth, so my dry fit is always a little "long" but when the glue goes on, it winds up the right dimension.
Deburr the pipe after cuts. Nothing fancy, just a pocketknife to trim off the burr inside and out.
Prime before gluing. Both the pipe and the socket.
When you glue, if you can, twist about 1/4 turn and hold it together for 30-60 seconds. The sockets have a draft angle & it can & will squeeze your pipe out if you don't hold the joint until it starts to set.
Believe it or not, you can un-weld pipe from a socket and re-use a fitting. You use a torch to heat a 2" hole saw, which you use as a heating iron for the pipe (assuming 2" pipe). Cut the pipe close to the fitting (leave a little to grab). Heat up the hole saw and use alligator nose pliers to stick it in the pipe & socket. Let it set and move it against all sides of the pipe. Repeat. Occasionally test with the tip of the pliers if the pipe is getting soft enough to release & collapse. When that happens, quickly pull the hole-saw out, grab onto the pipe with the pliers and twist it until you wrap the now soft pipe around the pliers and de-weld it. Clean, prime, and re-weld the socket. I've done it many times and it works like a charm.
Here is a video of the procedure:
My son had tunes for about 3 yrs when he was younger. Thankfully he no longer does, my heart goes out to yours and Mdragger88's kiddos it's certainly a frustration. My son was super happy when he was able to swim and go underwater without having to plug his ears up with silicone haha. Praying for good news at the ENT for you today.
These prices are literally half of what I had been looking at actually, thank you!!! I am going to go measure everything in the pump house today and buy the caps for the returns. I have plugs for the skimmers already so that I can open that line up to fit and install a check valve, same with the vacuum port (although I will only skimmer plate vacuum ever again, I still want a check valve for service and maintenance of the lines).I like the Jandy NeverLube valves. They are a bit pricey. This is the CMP version of the same things. Interestingly, Zodiac owns both Jandy and CMP now.
For the diverter (3-way valve), I'd suggest this:
CMP Pool and Spa 3-Way Diverter Valve, 2" Inside, 2-1/2" Outside, Slip - 25913-204-000 - INYOPools.com
CMP 3 Way Pool Diverter Valve 2" Inside 2.5" Outside
For the main return check valve, I'd suggest this:
CMP Check Valve, 2" Inside 2-1/2" Outside, 1/2 lb. Spring - 25830-814-000 - INYOPools.com
CMP Check Valve 1-1/2" Inside 2" Outside 1/2 Lb. - 25830-814-000
Note that both of those are made such that you can plumb with 2" PVC pipe into the socket, or 2.5" PVC fittings to the outside of it. They also have 1.5/2" versions, and 2.5"/3" versions of all these.
For the Stop valve, you could either use a 2-way diverter:
or a true-union ball valve:CMP 2 Way Diverter Valve, 2" Inside, 2.5" Outside - 25912-204-000 - INYOPools.com
"Diverter Valve,Hydroseal,2"",2 Way,2""Socket x 2-1/2"" Spg" (25912-204) - Pool & Spa Parts
Buy 2" PVC True Union Ball Valve - Socket & Threaded Ends
2 in. PVC True Union Ball Valve with Socket (ANSI) and Threaded (NPT) Ends. Easy to install and use - now available at a great discount price!
I wouldn't suggest the single-union ball valves or the non-union ball valves. You want something that you can service if need be.
Of course you can use the Jandy-style valves I've noted above on the suction side as well.
For the waterfall, I'm not sure what size tubing / hose you have there, but I'm going to assume it's 1". If different, just change size of parts as needed.
I would come out of that diverter to a 2" to 1" reducer bushing: 2" x 1" Sch 40 PVC Reducer Bushing Flush Style - Spig x Soc 437-249 (can easily find at Lowe's / HD)
and into a unioned check valve like this:
1" PVC True Union Swing Check Valve - Soc (S1720-10) - PVC Fittings Online (can also probably find similar at Lowe's / HD)
Then from that to whatever kind of fitting you need to adapt to your hose. Maybe a barbed fitting with a hose clamp? I don't know, I haven't done a water slide.
For your pump, I would use these high-temp unions. The reason for high-temp is if the pump were to run dry, they won't melt.
Amazon.com: Swimables 2" Hi-Temp Union for All Pentair Whisperflo and Intelliflo Pumps for Inground Swimming Pool 21063-200-000-2" MIP x 2" Slip PVC - Made in USA - 2 Pack : Patio, Lawn & Garden
Amazon.com: Swimables 2" Hi-Temp Union for All Pentair Whisperflo and Intelliflo Pumps for Inground Swimming Pool 21063-200-000-2" MIP x 2" Slip PVC - Made in USA - 2 Pack : Patio, Lawn & Gardensmile.amazon.com
Then for your multiport, just find some good unions that will work for you. If you can afford it, buy an extra 1 or 2 because unions are not standardized...every manufacturer uses different sizes and threads. It's annoying to try and find a replacement down the road.
Hope that helps.
I'm an aerospace engineer by education, and a systems engineer (mostly on electronics, with some mechanical concerns, and software) by vocation. I replumbed my entire equipment pad years ago. I did a good enough job that when I was getting quotes to upgrade the gas line for my heater, the plumbing foreman offered me a job (seriously) on the spot when he learned I'd plumbed my pool pad. His comment was that he rarely saw even professionals lay that many fittings out so neatly and precisely & not leave a single drip of glue or primer. Now, 15 years later, it needs to be done again--the deep freeze last year broke a lot of stuff due to losing power for so long & being unable to drain everything in time. So it's currently a (functional) patchwork of repairs.
My main problem.... the main drain. It does not have a check valve, so any work on the pool side of the current valve I have no idea how to do without completely draining the pool. I won't be able to compete with the backflow especially do to it being a flooded setup and gravity alone will 0 the pools water in quick time. Any suggestions? I really want to get a check valve on the line between the pool and valve so I can do maintenance work when needed. The current regulator valves gasket is going bad and I would say in less than a year, 18 months max, the gasket will fail.
I got a ton of digging I need to do, so looks like it's time to pull out the trencher and clean it up. If I am going to be doing the work that is needed in the pump house I really want to just get everything plumbed new so that headache can be resolved for good.
I would plug the pool side main drain(s) (and any other pipe of concern) with an expandable rubber plug such as this: Technical 1-1-2in. Pipe #8 Tapered Winterizing Plug | Leslie's Pool Supplies
Make sure you match the plug to the size of the drain pipe.
Then you can work on the plumbing without draining, or at least significantly stem the flow.
I would also recommend this pvc cement.
It works in wet conditions allowing some water to be present when bonding.
Make sure you match the plug to the size of the drain pipe.
Then you can work on the plumbing without draining, or at least significantly stem the flow.
I would also recommend this pvc cement.
It works in wet conditions allowing some water to be present when bonding.
Thanks. For now I will have to service and repair everything except the main drain than. I can't see through the water enough to be able to do anything with the cover or the pipe to the main drain.
zimdogg
Bronze Supporter
I haven't tested with reagents yet, but I do have a Taylor K-2005 kit. After ordering it reading posts here and other places, I realized I should have ordered the K-2006 kit to get the FAS DPD test for free and total chlorine (I think... still learning terms here).
So I ordered a supplemental kid that should be here Friday, the K-1515A Drop Test. https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-K-1515-FAS-DPD-Chlorine-75oz/dp/B003V4YZEO/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=taylor+fas-dpd+test+kit&qid=1654118026&sprefix=taylor+fas,aps,111&sr=8-4
Assuming I got all the testing stuff I need, I should be ready to learn this weekend. Up to this point I've only used test stripes, and so far things have stayed "in check" as far as I can tell just adding chlorine tabs to my auto feeder tube and adjusting the amount that goes into the pool based on high or low readings. What I'm scared about is getting too much CYA in there, because I really don't want to have to figure out how to drain the pool.
Good news is, we had our pool opened by a guy that's taken care of this pool through 2 prior owners of our house (we moved in back in april) so he's pretty familiar with it and how it acts. It went from an algae infested green blob to crystal clear in about 24 hours. I haven't done anything since then other than adding chlorine tabs (and cleaning out skimmer basket, pump filter basket, and general cleaning), and it's still clear, so just want to make sure I continue down a path of clarity and don't get to a point where I'm overwhelmed. If my pool goes cloudy, I'm not going to know what in the heck to do though... which is why I'm here! I've found some voles dead in the skimmer already and a few toads that I rescued back to the wild.
These were my test strips this morning, the tabs I've been using, and the pool clarity. I won't muck up your thread with my stuff (start my own once my test kit gets here) but I always like to learn through others.
As for signature... I thought i added some info but I guess not. I'll have to double check.
Attachments
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jedigrover
Gold Supporter
- Sep 13, 2010
- 333
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- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
That’s your best bet. Do everything you can and get it clean. Then work on the main drain. If you know someone who scuba dives, they could help with taking off the cover and putting an expanding plug in the port.
Orion7319
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,442
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Thanks! His appointment is next week. Hopefully it goes well. I bet your son will be super happy when you get this pool all fixed up
One think I am grateful that I did while I was in service was get scuba certified... I never would have dreamt I would be scuba diving in my own swimming pool though. Need to fill my tanks anyways because I also have to replace the lights in the walls and fish tape some new wiring through.
Sure hope he is, wife is about ready to murder me right now haha. One more stop at Lowe's and its demolition and rebuild time. Hopefully if I can get everything fixed and put back together before bedtime she might be willing to at least say good night to me.Thanks! His appointment is next week. Hopefully it goes well. I bet your son will be super happy when you get this pool all fixed up
Orion7319
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 1, 2020
- 1,442
- Pool Size
- 19775
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I too often times find myself sleeping with one eye open for the very same reason! Anytime the pool is down for any reason, she’s ready to cut me….
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I cracked up laughing. I got:
-300lbs sand (it's useless after the flocc, opened filter and it's almost sticky.)
- 2 jandy 3 way valves
- 3 Jandy 2 way valves
- 4 check valves
- 6 90 degree pressure pvc elbows
- 6 joiners (gasket sealing twist locks)
- 30' pvc pressure piping
- all my tools pulled out and ready
- 2.5 ton jack in place for deck slabs
- plenty of couplings
Thunderstorm just rolled in so I put it all away, well played mother nature..... well played.
-300lbs sand (it's useless after the flocc, opened filter and it's almost sticky.)
- 2 jandy 3 way valves
- 3 Jandy 2 way valves
- 4 check valves
- 6 90 degree pressure pvc elbows
- 6 joiners (gasket sealing twist locks)
- 30' pvc pressure piping
- all my tools pulled out and ready
- 2.5 ton jack in place for deck slabs
- plenty of couplings
Thunderstorm just rolled in so I put it all away, well played mother nature..... well played.
Ok, So I really don't like the way the pump house is setup at all! There is soooo much pipe length and because it is enclosed you have to step over and between the pipes, pump sits directly in front of the door and the outlet port is parallel to the inlet to the filter meaning it requires several junctions to get it into the filter. I don't have CAD or graphing paper, but I can draw good enough for a kindergartner and I have a mental image of how I would like to set up the pump house since I have to replace so much anyways.
If I post my drawing, equivalent to a 10 yr old so don't judge... ok you can judge haha I will be, can I get some feedback on placement and positioning? It's going to take me a minute to find my crayons haha.
The biggest issue is that I can't cap the main drain currently, so I am sort of stuck with what I actually want to do. I REALLY wish there was a way I could stop the main drains flow so I could just knock it all out today/tomorrow, but.... master Yoda taught Luke to be patient and so therefore so must I learn the skill.
If I post my drawing, equivalent to a 10 yr old so don't judge... ok you can judge haha I will be, can I get some feedback on placement and positioning? It's going to take me a minute to find my crayons haha.
The biggest issue is that I can't cap the main drain currently, so I am sort of stuck with what I actually want to do. I REALLY wish there was a way I could stop the main drains flow so I could just knock it all out today/tomorrow, but.... master Yoda taught Luke to be patient and so therefore so must I learn the skill.