My ph keeps creeping up to 7.8. That seems to be its happy spot, even with the alkalinity on the low side of 70-80. I add 1/4 to 1/2 jug of muriatic acid to get it down to 7.4-7.6. Is this normal?
I'm adding 1/4 to 1/2 a jug of muriatic acid a week. Is this normal?
- Thread starter poolnovice1
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Yes. The TA of your fill water in Houston is elevated. So if you are adding any water due to evaporation, the pH will rise. Wind across the surface of the pool water makes the pH rise.
I would suggest you wait until your pH is 8 before adding acid. Drop it to 7.6. But it is very likely you will need to add acid about once a week, especially when you are adding fill water.
I would suggest you wait until your pH is 8 before adding acid. Drop it to 7.6. But it is very likely you will need to add acid about once a week, especially when you are adding fill water.
Thank you. I recall someone here mentioning that they run their TA at 50 to keep their pH under 7.8 without having to add so much muriatic acid. What are your thoughts on TA that low?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
TA at 50 or above is fine. If you have a plaster pool, you need to be sure your CH is also well within recommended range.
red-beard
Gold Supporter
- May 27, 2019
- 1,624
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
My TA in Houston is about 70. I add about 1 quart whenever it hits 7.9, which is about weekly. I have a 25,000 gallon pool.
I may start waiting until it hits 8.0 and just be happy with 7.8ish. I suspect that the spillover spa is playing a large role with the PH creep. I don't know how to turn off the spillover spa, or if that can even be done since they use the same pump.
Here's the main pump. I have two other pumps (not pictured) for waterworks that I rarely turn on.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
https://www.pentair.com/content/dam...ool CP3600 Pool-Spa Control System Manual.pdf
You can program in a WFAL = Activate an overflow from spa to pool. Uses AUX2 circuit.
You would then need to close your make up valve (if you have one) or adjust your valve actuator on the return side so it goes either completely Spa or completely Pool return.
The Compool is a relic. Great it is still working.
You can program in a WFAL = Activate an overflow from spa to pool. Uses AUX2 circuit.
You would then need to close your make up valve (if you have one) or adjust your valve actuator on the return side so it goes either completely Spa or completely Pool return.
The Compool is a relic. Great it is still working.
It sure is. It came with the house. We're upgrading very soon to a new automation system.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,727
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
red-beard
Gold Supporter
- May 27, 2019
- 1,624
- Pool Size
- 25000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
I check the water weekly, so it could be 7.9 or 8.0. If it makes it to 8.0, it takes a 1/2 gallon. Because it is CO2 loss causing this, water temp affects how fast this occurs. Winter (when we aren't using the pool), I check the levels about monthly and adjust (1/2 gallon or so). In the Spring and Fall it takes less. Summer more.