Ignition Control Board Part Question? Part # FDXLICB1930 Kit

tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
1,940
Houston, TX
Getting ready to swap out the control panel board and display board.

The display board is EZ-PZ. Based on enclosed pic, what is the white plastic piece at 9 O’clock? Also, besides just following common sense on plug, terminals & wiring swap/outs, are there any steps i need to be aware of to make the install go smoother? Just looking for any “make sure you watch out for this” kind of steps?

thank you and pls advise,
Tstex
 

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tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
1,940
Houston, TX
Heater is working fine now…didn’t see any burned out or bad looking components on either board ? Am i missing something?

Did find one 120v terminal plug that was not being used (pic 1) and a plug (pic 2). What are these 2 parts for?
 

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ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
29,067
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
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Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Is your heater powered by 120V or 240V?
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
28,250
The white piece looks like it is a holder for the circuit board.

It is probably only used on a limited number of models.

1633543775153.png
The heater can be wired for 120 or 240.

So, you only use the plug that corresponds to the supply voltage.

The drain plug went at the red dot.

There is now a pressure relief installed in place of the plug.

1633544121551.png
1633544302812.png
 

tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
1,940
Houston, TX
Thanks Allen & James. Yes, since it's wired 240V, they left the 120V terminal inside the unit.

On the plug, that was awesome James that you pulled a previous pic of my heater/piping area and marked it w a red dot...talk about customer service :)

As mentioned in post 1, I did not see any major problems w the boards on either side, except what "looks like small foaming" on the Ign Control Board where the wiring harness from the display board connects. If you guys would like, I could post pics of both boards, front and back, and see if we can identify any corrosion, burn marks or other.

Again, thank you very much for your continued support and help, tstex
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
28,250
If you guys would like, I could post pics of both boards, front and back, and see if we can identify any corrosion, burn marks or other.
Ok, we can take a look if you want to post the pictures.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
28,250
On the plug, that was awesome James that you pulled a previous pic of my heater/piping area and marked it w a red dot...talk about customer service
For the picture, I was going to either send a drone for a flyover or maybe repurpose an NSA micrometer resolution satellite, but luckily, you had posted a picture earlier and I did not need to do either of those two things.
 

ps0303

TFP Expert
In The Industry
Jul 6, 2011
4,127
FL
Thanks Allen & James. Yes, since it's wired 240V, they left the 120V terminal inside the unit.

On the plug, that was awesome James that you pulled a previous pic of my heater/piping area and marked it w a red dot...talk about customer service :)

As mentioned in post 1, I did not see any major problems w the boards on either side, except what "looks like small foaming" on the Ign Control Board where the wiring harness from the display board connects. If you guys would like, I could post pics of both boards, front and back, and see if we can identify any corrosion, burn marks or other.

Again, thank you very much for your continued support and help, tstex
Many times when I replace these boards and there are no outward signs of issues. As for the plastic piece you asked about earlier, Hayward finally realized that if someone is in the unit and presses on the board it will touch the metal and short the board out. So they added the plastic piece for the board to be snapped into so that it won't come in contact with the metal. As for the 120/240 plug, I know I always leave both just in case someone for whatever reason switches voltage of the unit. From the factory the 240 plug is plugged in.
 

tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
1,940
Houston, TX
For the picture, I was going to either send a drone for a flyover or maybe repurpose an NSA micrometer resolution satellite, but luckily, you had posted a picture earlier and I did not need to do either of those two things.
Pls send link to repurposed satellite / LOL Thank you Paul for the explanations.

Ok, I have another problem. After a zoom meeting, I came outside and my heater was running - I did not initiate it, as I have traditionally done.

The heater Icon lit light was not displayed on my in-home remote keypad, and when I looked at my outside control panel, the heater icon was not lit there either. Before replacing the parts, I typically initiated the heater by using my inside remote: I would hit SPA MODE, FILTER pump, then after 10 secs, hit HEATER and the heater would come on 10 sec's later [the built in delay].

When I powered up the heater, I did not see any of the typical display codes when the heater was not supposed to operate. I saw 78, and Standby Light was lit. The heater would not start by hitting the controller keypad as I normally we initiate, I had to change the mode from Standby to SPA, then increase the temp, which I did to 99.

When I changed out the Ign Control Board, did this do something to my prior settings that pertains to my settings for my Spa and how I operate it?

thank you and pls advise
 

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JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
28,250
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tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
1,940
Houston, TX
This is great James...thank you. That "bo" mode is not what I have seen and that's the problem...it's a local or at the heater operations mode.

I will start the process above and see if I can get it in 'bo" mode and post back - thanks again !!
 
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tstex

Silver Supporter
Aug 28, 2012
1,940
Houston, TX
Done my friend / pretty EZ…wish all my TFP buds were close by so you could all come over for food & beverage !!! Thanks again !!!
 

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