If anyone is still awake need some help fast if possible.

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RobertScalchi said:
WTH??... That HTH indicator is different than mine. The chlorine used to be measured in grades of yellow and the PH in purple pink. Now they are both measured in pink?... Nothing like confusing everyone.
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The Taylor K-1001 uses DPD test for Chlorine and a red indicator and red color scale.
The Taylor K-1000 uses OTO test for Chlorine and a yellow indicator and yellow color scale.
different reagents are used for the DPD than the OTO chlorine tests.

the pH test should run from yellow (low) to purple (high) on both HTH and Taylor.


I believe in the pic that S-t-E posted, he was doing a pH test in both sides of the comparator. Low pH made it look yellow, other is 7.2 pH.

That comparator block in post #73 looks to be from Taylor and not HTH. HTH 6way uses an OTO test for chlorine.
 
For vacation should I use a trichlor puck or the below pictured...
c8afb383c20166981fb956b1fd72b55e.jpg
 
Hmmm. I’ll let the others chime in, but that 51% “other ingredients” worries me a bit!
 
It's Cal/Hypo, which means your CH will rise vs your CYA.

I use tri-chlor pucks in a floater when I am gone. I throw 2 in the floater and I tie it off between my returns and it keeps it centered in the pool. I keep the slits open about 1/4 and it does a great job and since I backwash, I did not notice a build up of CYA. You should test CYA monthly anyway and adjust accordingly.

I especially love the packaging... DOES NOT RAISE STABILIZER with no mention of what it does raise. Classic.

Notice they even admit, increased levels of Stabilizer makes Chlorine less effective. The hints are all around us but often miss them in our life prior to TFP.

I love being in the cool crowd.
 
hehe cool pool crowd

If the vacation is less than 5 days, just bringing it to shock fc per [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] and then testing it & adding when you get back is almost always fine, without any solids.

If the vacation is more than 5 days, we should come up with a specific plan for the number of days.

For your safety, please don't share your address or the vacation dates online. Even though I am not going to come over to practice my backstroke in your trouble free pool, that's not to say others wouldn't try it.
 
Just a note if you buy those Cal hypo pucks. Never ever ever put them in a container that held trichlor and certainly never allow them to be in direct contact with trichlor.

Unless you have a video recording because we all like to see explosions :shock:
 
Well, my CH is like 30-40 ppm but my pool is Vinyl so it doesn't much matter?
Figured it wouldn't hurt to raise my CH vs raising my CYA (intentionally set to 50 PPM)
Also my TA is low (30-40 ppm) so if it were to raise that I wouldn't be complaining.

Also, for the current timeframe, my pH is low and adding 2lbs of Borax did not appear to change it appreciably...
My TA is also low. I am aware of TA buffering pH changes, should I add borax first or baking soda?
 
Stargate_to_earth said:
Well, my CH is like 30-40 ppm but my pool is Vinyl so it doesn't much matter?
Figured it wouldn't hurt to raise my CH vs raising my CYA (intentionally set to 50 PPM)
Also my TA is low (30-40 ppm) so if it were to raise that I wouldn't be complaining.

Also, for the current timeframe, my pH is low and adding 2lbs of Borax did not appear to change it appreciably...
My TA is also low. I am aware of TA buffering pH changes, should I add borax first or baking soda?
Click to expand...

I get my TA set first, and keep mine around 80-90, then I can dial in my pH and that seems to make it easier on my end. *Your results may vary


So you have been given 2 different methods, both will work. Experiment for yourself and see which way you like.

That's the beauty. You know what you need to do, just find your way that works best for you.
 

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The CH concern for vinyl comes only with CH levels and water conditions that put your CSI in a range that indicates unsightly calcium scaling may form on your liner. You're quite far from that, so you may use CALhypo products as you need to, but avoid using them when you clearly do not need to. Since CH can't be lowered without a drain/refill - keeping it low gives you more future uses of calhypo as life necessitates.

You're correct that calhypo (which is also available in concentrations from around 30-75% fyi so be mindful what you're buying and what you put in PoolMath) is the only cost effective solid option when you don't wish to add CYA along with the FC.

So if you can get through the vacation with just boosting the FC, say to shock level before you go, then that would be preferred. Next, have a neighbor or friend visit and dump a calculated amount on specified date(s) for you. Then either cal-hypo it in addition to boosting FC or just boost FC and skip the calhypo and clean up whatever may develop when you get home. A lot just comes down to how clean the pool is, and how long the vacation is.
 
Not really, not reliably, and not without convincing them of the TFP methodology, which would be fun to say the least. Neighbors are part of the family that usedt to own the house and pool, and always used trichlor pucks, they're also in their 60's.

Question:

IF i were to use the cal-hypo pucks, how could I expect them to maintain a 6-8 ppm Cl- concentration. The ones pictured above are the only ones I have easy access to, and they are designed to be used in the skimmer basket. That would appear to assume that I ran the pump 8/hr a day in fast mode (right now I am running 24/7 in slow). How do you control the PPM with CalHypo pucks?
 
I have never used that, so can’t help. Hopefully someone with more knowledge will come along.
 
Stargate_to_earth said:
Not really, not reliably, and not without convincing them of the TFP methodology, which would be fun to say the least. Neighbors are part of the family that usedt to own the house and pool, and always used trichlor pucks, they're also in their 60's.

Question:

IF i were to use the cal-hypo pucks, how could I expect them to maintain a 6-8 ppm Cl- concentration. The ones pictured above are the only ones I have easy access to, and they are designed to be used in the skimmer basket. That would appear to assume that I ran the pump 8/hr a day in fast mode (right now I am running 24/7 in slow). How do you control the PPM with CalHypo pucks?
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Trial and error. You can have a trial run the week before to see how they go and adjust as needed.
 
Over my pay grade too, I have only used Tri-chlor pucks. If it were me, assuming that my levels were right on everything else, I would put 2 pucks in a floater and deal with it when I got back.

Is it TFP approved? nope

Life is funny sometimes you can control things and sometimes you can't.

If you knew what your pool needed on an every other day basis and could set 2-3 jugs out and have them pour that in that would be ideal. I was fortunate enough to have that when we were out of town last year for 10 days.

If I could not have done that, 2 pucks in the floater and I would deal with it when I returned.

A TFP balanced pool you will find is so good and balanced that it can take a lot more neglect than what we are used to.

In My Opinion, that is because for me personally, my pool was always 1-2 steps away from disaster (cloudy or worse).

Now my TFP pool is 40 steps from disaster. So to recover/work with a slight bump in CYA until I splash out/ backwash out and overall adjust from it is not hard to adapt to, because TFP gave me//all of us the information that keeps things in harmony.

Again, my suggestion is in NO WAY TFP APPROVED, but I would do it and bet a donut that I would not have to SLAM when I returned.

I have lived with a horrible pool (self inflicted yes), I know what I threw at it, unfortunately my memory is very good.

I also lived with a TFP pool last year and I tested my luck, take a perfect pool and ignore it for 5 days, test it, what adjustments needed to be made? Bump Chlorine, vac, looks great, tests great again. Can my pool last 5 days without me, yep.

Once you know how to fix something, you have a better understanding of the difference between a break and a scratch.


BTW, take pics of before and after and test results.
 
Will do, I'm wondering if I could setup a rube-Goldberg-esque way to add Cl-, involving bottles with holes in their tops suspended near pool with a wemo outlet (smart tech outlet controlled by phone) controlling something that could knock them over one at a time (Back to the Future Doc Brown style)
 
Stargate_to_earth said:
Will do, I'm wondering if I could setup a rube-Goldberg-esque way to add Cl-, involving bottles with holes in their tops suspended near pool with a wemo outlet (smart tech outlet controlled by phone) controlling something that could knock them over one at a time (Back to the Future Doc Brown style)
Click to expand...

Dude, You better get some VIDEO of that. That would be awesome!
 

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