If anyone is still awake need some help fast if possible.

I'm starting to like this idea, overshoot cl a little and I could stretch this out to a week in-between reservoir refills, all for $100 + some PVC... maybe with a check valve that is filled with water between the controller and the Cl resivoir... could even hook it up to a hose and go the flow direction that is intended, though that creates more problems... Puts on redneck engineer hat :kim:
 
Yes, that seems to be a SOLID solution.

I'm starting to like this idea, overshoot cl a little and I could stretch this out to a week in-between reservoir refills, all for $100 + some PVC... maybe with a check valve that is filled with water between the controller and the Cl resivoir... could even hook it up to a hose and go the flow direction that is intended, though that creates more problems... Puts on redneck engineer hat :kim:
 
I'm starting to like this idea, overshoot cl a little and I could stretch this out to a week in-between reservoir refills, all for $100 + some PVC... maybe with a check valve that is filled with water between the controller and the Cl resivoir... could even hook it up to a hose and go the flow direction that is intended, though that creates more problems... Puts on redneck engineer hat :kim:

Ahh, give an engineer a problem to solve and it’ll keep his mind employed to no end. Much simpler to raise FC to SLAM and throw a couple pucks in a floater for the week. It is fun to dream though...
 
Once you have logged the data from your pool for a while using the TFP app or paper journal or spreadsheet you get a feel for daily FC demand each part of the year. You can then add multiple days worth at a time and see how it holds up. If you do two days worth and check it, adjusting and retesting as needed to learn how you can skip days, if desired, without ever falling out of target range. I have an index card in my test kit box saying what the 2 day target, 3 day target, 4 day target, and 5 day target FCs are if I don't want to daily. Yes, I lose more to the sun this way, but I'm okay with that sometimes.

When I redo my plaster I'm going to add a automated Stenner bleach pump and tank to eliminate my daily adds. Either that or SWG, not sure yet.
 
You are ALL wonderful!!! I just read this whole thread and it is a shiny example of what TFP is all about!

New guy with low money but lots of try+great group of people who care and love to help=FUN filled thread with lots of good info for all!

But Stargate----------dude are you trying to say I am a redneck??? See this is MY mini me :kim: : kim : I am so flattered! Born in GA, live in N. FL=redneck! LOVE IT!!!!

Kim:kim:
 

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If i didn't have a full time job, I would design and build this, no question. I am still considering trying to find a way to make this happen. Maybe not a product that would sell to the masses but I bet if I could get this working and was able to reproduce the results, some on here would be interested :D. Always looking for that 1 in a million idea.

Some simple changes, such as pipe thickness enforcing the slow pour and directions to put this behind your pump timer (so it only runs if you have flow), and some way to keep the Cl from eating away at the valve...
 
Stargate wanted that Puck badly! LOLOL

You are ALL wonderful!!! I just read this whole thread and it is a shiny example of what TFP is all about!

New guy with low money but lots of try+great group of people who care and love to help=FUN filled thread with lots of good info for all!

But Stargate----------dude are you trying to say I am a redneck??? See this is MY mini me :kim: : kim : I am so flattered! Born in GA, live in N. FL=redneck! LOVE IT!!!!

Kim:kim:
 
So, new question.

I have never backwashed a sand filter before.

I run my pump 24/7 in slow mode, gives me about 4 psid (13 psid in fast).

20-25% rise (per pool school) would be 5 psid? That is not exactly easy to tell.

Should I just do this weekly, bi-weekly, monthly, or just switch to high speed to compare PSI (alternativly, do it after each rain to compensate for level gain ;) )?

Backwash in slow or fast pump mode?

Also when I do go for a backwash, how long should I run it for, I have heard anywhere from 30sec if it comes out clean, to 3-5 min no matter what?

Also do i need to be careful where the waste water goes, I live on a farm so (assuming water is in swimmable condition)...
 
I turn my pump on high and check the filter gauge against what I know the "clean" pressure is. With regular additions and turning it on high to skim that's frequent enough for me to know when to backwash. Backwash in high (fast). Turn to backwash, turn pump on high. Watch the backwash water until it's clean. Stop pump. Turn to "Rinse" Run pump again watching the sight glass. When it goes clear, pump off, back to filter. I don't think I'd let animals drink it (mainly because it's dirty) but chemical wise you should be fine.
 
Stargate, Does your filter have a "sight glass" on it? It is a clear tube or such where you can see the water. IF you do you will run your backwash until the water looks clear in the glass. If you do not, like me, you will need someone to watch the other end of the hose to tell you when the water runs clear. THEN you will need to turn it to rinse. For this I would look up you filters manual. Mine says 2 mins, the stop, 2 more mins. then stop. Then turn to filter and call it a day.

I do mine about once a month just to be on the safe side. I also do a deep clean as seen here: Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter when I get off for the summer. (I am a Kindergarten teacher).

Where to put the water-up to you. It will have some chlorine in it but my cats drink out of my pool all of the time and it has not hurt them so..............I say let it water your garden! Just know it will RUSH out of the hose so have it where or how it cannot cause erosion problems.

Kim:kim:
 
So:

Measure d/p and backwash on High setting

Backwash 2 min then stop, then 2 min more, then rinse for 2 min, then return to filter (stopping pump in-between)

Watch sightglass (mine has a mini mason jar looking thing) and adjust as I see fit

I have a feeling I will time this to coincide with post rain times unless it really needs it (my well doesn't produce very much water [maybe 1-1.5 hr run time till dry {had to fill pool from neighbors county water}])
 
Over my pay grade too, I have only used Tri-chlor pucks. If it were me, assuming that my levels were right on everything else, I would put 2 pucks in a floater and deal with it when I got back.

Is it TFP approved? nope


Actually, we don't say NEVER use dichlor or trichlor! TFP is all about understanding the interaction between different products and your pool. If a user wants to stick to their pucks, and they're willing to track CYA, increase FC to compensate as the CYA goes up, and drain when needed to lower CYA back to a workable level, more power to them! TFP is all about understanding your pool and making the choices you need to so it can be clean and happy. Many of us actually use pucks for vacations. :)
 
Post-rain when the pool is high is a perfect time to backwash!

- - - Updated - - -

I guess I am a redneck too... born in SC, live in FL!
 
So:

Measure d/p and backwash on High setting

Backwash 2 min then stop, then 2 min more, then rinse for 2 min, then return to filter (stopping pump in-between)

Watch sightglass (mine has a mini mason jar looking thing) and adjust as I see fit

I have a feeling I will time this to coincide with post rain times unless it really needs it (my well doesn't produce very much water [maybe 1-1.5 hr run time till dry {had to fill pool from neighbors county water}])

I never do it for a set amount of time. I bet I rarely backwash more than a minute. Just long enough for the backwash to run clear. Rinsing is probably 10-15 seconds. Timing with rain is great but it's probably less water loss than a cannonball party :)
 
If you happen to want a timed version:

Backwash 2mins, rinse 30s, backwash 30s, rinse 30s, (all times are "or longer until clear;" always turn off pump/motor before switching the multiport valve; always turn valve only in one direction) then go back to filter, turn back on and check PSI to get clean PSI. (make sure you give it a few seconds and purge any air with air bleeder valve before taking clean psi reading). Please do make sure you have at least an inch of water above the bottom of the skimmer basket - since you'll lose some backwashing and it is inconvenient to run out of water during a backwash!

Other notes: you want the backwash hose mostly straight for the first few feet from filter; I find it helpful to have the end where the water sprays out of placed on top of something so the water arcs up and then lands on something white, like a cutting board or old poster or trash bag to help me see contrast. Plus, makes for more dramatic video.
 

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