iChlor 30 salt light off

[chelselyse]

Hello! I have an intellichlor i30. My chlorine level has been at 0, but my salt level is measuring within normal range when I test it at the pool store.
When I tested the water last week, the tech had suggested adding stabilizer and running the pump all night with the chlorinator set at 100%. This did not change anything.
I looked at my chlorinator and noticed the "salt" indicator light is off. Not red, not green, off. The flow light and cell light are on. (Picture attached) The tech suggested cleaning the cell. I did this tonight and same thing is happening. I cannot find literature anywhere about this light being off.
When I go into diagnostic mode, it says the salt level is 2362 which is low. The pool store says it's not.
Is it possible it's reading an inaccurate salt level and not making chlorine? Why would this light be off?
Thank you!

 

[HermanTX]

The manual does not discuss if the Salt LED is completely off.
I would unplug everything to ensure there is no cut in wire then reinstall the wires.

Per the manual
Salt Level LED The iChlor® SCG checks the pool water salinity regularly and displays the levels as follows:
• Green LED: Good salt. The pool water salt level is between 3000 ppm and 4500.
• Green LED (Flashing): Salt level is above 4500 ppm. The salt level is high which increases the risk of corrosion and deterioration of pool equipment and surfaces.
• Red LED: Low salt. The salt level is between 2600 ppm and 3000 ppm. The iChlor SCG will be producing chlorine at reduced efficiency. It is highly recommended to add salt. See (*) Note below.
• Red LED (Flashing) Very low salt. The salt level is between 2000 ppm and 2600 ppm. The iChlor SCG will produce chlorine at a “reduced” output rate of approximate 25% less than output selection. It is highly recommended to add salt. See Note below.
• Red LED (Flashing): Not enough salt. The salt level has fallen below 2000 ppm. The iChlor SCG will not produce chlorine until salt is added. The iChlor SCG is OFF. See Note below.
Note: After every salt addition, pump should be allowed to run for at least 24 hours for proper dilution. Salinity readings should only be taken, after the dilution period.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Chelse,

As you noted, the salt light should be green or red, but never off..

Since the cell is measuring your salt level at 2300, it could just be that the red salt LED is just not working.

Assuming that your actual salt level is ok, then most likely the temp sensor in your cell's flow switch is bad.

How old is your cell? If under warranty have it fixed. If no longer under warranty, then you can DIY replace the flow switch assembly.

I never, ever trust the pool stores salt testing.. I use a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit.. This is something that every saltwater pool owner should have.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[chelselyse]

Chelse,

As you noted, the salt light should be green or red, but never off..

Since the cell is measuring your salt level at 2300, it could just be that the red salt LED is just not working.

Assuming that your actual salt level is ok, then most likely the temp sensor in your cell's flow switch is bad.

How old is your cell? If under warranty have it fixed. If no longer under warranty, then you can DIY replace the flow switch assembly.

I never, ever trust the pool stores salt testing.. I use a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit.. This is something that every saltwater pool owner should have.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thank you for your reply. I added a bag of salt yesterday to be sure it wasn't just not showing red. I checked the diagnostic menu again and it's showing even lower today which leads me to think a sensor is bad. You say the temp sensor detects salt level? I will look up how to replace. I don't believe we are under warranty. I will also buy your recommended salt tester.

 

[chelselyse]

Chelse,

As you noted, the salt light should be green or red, but never off..

Since the cell is measuring your salt level at 2300, it could just be that the red salt LED is just not working.

Assuming that your actual salt level is ok, then most likely the temp sensor in your cell's flow switch is bad.

How old is your cell? If under warranty have it fixed. If no longer under warranty, then you can DIY replace the flow switch assembly.

I never, ever trust the pool stores salt testing.. I use a Taylor K-1766 salt test kit.. This is something that every saltwater pool owner should have.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I also just realized the temp is reading 127°F which I'm assuming is wrong.

 

[Jimrahbe]

Chelse,

What temp reading??? Does the cell itself have a temp reading, or is this from some other system??

If from the cell, then I would assume the same 'bad' thermistor is involved..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[chelselyse]

Chelse,

What temp reading??? Does the cell itself have a temp reading, or is this from some other system??

If from the cell, then I would assume the same 'bad' thermistor is involved..

Thanks,

Jim R.

From the cell diagnostic menu. I've ordered a replacement flow/temp sensor. I'm hoping this solves it. It's so strange the light is off. Maybe because the temp is reading so high?

 

[Jimrahbe]

Chelse,

The cell uses the thermistor in the flow switch to 'adjust' the salt level based upon the water temp.. It makes sense that if the cell thinks the water temp is 127 degrees, that the salt reading would not be correct.

If there were my cell, the first thing I would do is to replace the flow switch assembly.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[chelselyse]

Chelse,

The cell uses the thermistor in the flow switch to 'adjust' the salt level based upon the water temp.. It makes sense that if the cell thinks the water temp is 127 degrees, that the salt reading would not be correct.

If there were my cell, the first thing I would do is to replace the flow switch assembly.

Thanks,

Jim R.

I replaced the flow switch today. Still reading 127°F. Salt light still off. Still reading salt level below 3000. I have the salt tester on it's way so I can see if the salt level reading is accurate or not. If it is, I guess I add more salt and see what happens. I really don't want to replace the cell at just over 6,000 hours. Especially because we're going to sell the house soon.

 

[chelselyse]

I replaced the flow switch today. Still reading 127°F. Salt light still off. Still reading salt level below 3000. I have the salt tester on it's way so I can see if the salt level reading is accurate or not. If it is, I guess I add more salt and see what happens. I really don't want to replace the cell at just over 6,000 hours. Especially because we're going to sell the house soon.

Chelse,

The cell uses the thermistor in the flow switch to 'adjust' the salt level based upon the water temp.. It makes sense that if the cell thinks the water temp is 127 degrees, that the salt reading would not be correct.

If there were my cell, the first thing I would do is to replace the flow switch assembly.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Salt test shows well over 3800. Salt cell not reading the salt level. Is it bad?