Ichlor 30 flow switch

andruwm

Member
Mar 11, 2022
10
Chicago
Pool Size
27000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
Hi,

I was getting inaccurate readings on my IC30, specifically very high water temperature and salt readings that were all over the place. I've seen this can typically be a faulty flow switch on these units so I replaced it a few days ago. It's working again, but the readings are still all over the place and now it thinks the salt is low again so it's not producing chlorine. (Salt is in the 3500 range determined by both a pool store water test and a home test) My initial thought now is to do a factory reset to clear the memory and allow it to start using the new flow switch from scratch, could that be a start? Problem with that is when I hold down "more" for 10 seconds to initiate the reset nothing happens besides diagnostic mode...
 
Welcome to TFP.

My initial thought now is to do a factory reset to clear the memory and allow it to start using the new flow switch from scratch, could that be a start?
No. There is no memory for salt. The cell measures salinity every 12 hours.

How old is your cell?
 
Installed late summer 2023, firs full summer 2024. It hasn't been cleaned, but the blades show no scale and chemistry is kept up. Even if it needed cleaning, other issues would be present I believe. Not the fluctuating water temp and salt levels? (Current water temp reading is 109 / Salt reading was 2600 yesterday and 1600 this morning)
 
Warranty won't work in this situation as this one that was installed in the summer of 2023 was a warranty replacement for the original from June 2021...
 
Have tried replacing the flow switch twice now, first with a pentair product and this last time with a aftermarket. They all read a temperature over 100 and and when I reset the salt starts around 2500 and ends up at 1600 in later readings. (salt is between 3500 and 4000)
 

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I may have to go that route, still trying to work this out for now.

Disconnect the white wire and run the cell and see what the cell temperature reads.

If the cell does not work that way, get a 10K resistor and connect it between the black and white wires instead of the wires in the black cable. Cell temperature should read 76F. If it does not than the board in the cell is bad.
 
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Disconnect the white wire and run the cell and see what the cell temperature reads.

If the cell does not work that way, get a 10K resistor and connect it between the black and white wires instead of the wires in the black cable. Cell temperature should read 76F. If it does not than the board in the cell is bad.
Thanks for the info! I am going to try this when I get home. So I'll first leave the black to black and red to red connected and run it with the whites disconnected? But if that doesn't work and when I do the resistor, am I connecting it to the black and white coming from cell itself, not the flow switch black and white, correct? Thanks again.
 
Thanks for the info! I am going to try this when I get home. So I'll first leave the black to black and red to red connected and run it with the whites disconnected?

Yes.

But if that doesn't work and when I do the resistor, am I connecting it to the black and white coming from cell itself, not the flow switch black and white, correct? Thanks again.
Flow switch has 4 wires on cells manufactured before September 2018:
  • Red/black - flow switch
  • Green/white - temperature sensor
Flow switch has 3 wires on cells manufactured after September 2018:
  • Red - flow switch
  • White - temperature sensor
  • Black - common
Leave black and red connected between cell and assembly.

Disconnect white wire and connect 10K resistor between white and black on cell.

This assumes you have the 3 wire assembly.
 
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I disconnected the white wire over on Friday and the salt cell was working the entire memorial day weekend. Temperature is still a little off, but not reading as high as it was prior and the salt level is registering high enough for production. (the level is still low compared to the the actual amount)

The cell only has 1700 hours on it so I'm gonna tinker as needed until I have to bite the bullet on a new one.
 
I disconnected the white wire over on Friday and the salt cell was working the entire memorial day weekend. Temperature is still a little off, but not reading as high as it was prior and the salt level is registering high enough for production. (the level is still low compared to the the actual amount)
With the white wire off there is no temperature measurement s. You are seeing default numbers from the cell.
 
Ok, white wires are disconnected still and the temperature is 89 this morning, but the default is 77? Cell itself may just be bad...

I was thinking of trying the other option, 10k resistor between white and black on cell next?
 
Ok, white wires are disconnected still and the temperature is 89 this morning, but the default is 77?

Yes.

.I was thinking of trying the other option, 10k resistor between white and black on cell next?

10K resistor will set the temperature to the same 77F as the default.

It will tell you if the white and black wires are working properly with the board.