Ichlor 30 flow switch replacement

CHBC

0
Jun 7, 2018
22
SC
I am trying to replace the flow switch on my IC30. When removing the switch the top of it hits the bottom of the display housing before allowing wiggle room to get the switch out. Any ideas on how to remove this switch?
65C1701A-0D85-4B6C-A2F4-6A6CCDB93710.jpeg
 
CH,

I do not have the iChlor, so have not tried to replace the flow switch..

Do you have already have the replacement? If so, you might check to see if the new one is thinner at the 'nut' end..

Logic says that someone installed the one that is in there now, so it has to come out.

I guess my point is that if you have the new one already, you can take the old one out in pieces. And if you have too, modify the new one to fit.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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According to this, it should come right out:


It would seem Jim's instinct is correct, as usual. Your existing part looks to have a taller nut than it should. Pause the video at 1:34. Odd, but who knows why that would be. If your replacement part looks like the one in the video, then cut the old one out (just saw off the top half of the nut, then unscrew what is left). If not, well, maybe return the replacement part and order another, maybe from somewhere else, until you get the right one.

The other possibility would be to disassemble the display housing from the body, though I have no idea if that's even possible. Seems likely, since that flow switch got in there somehow.
 
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CH,

I do not have the iChlor, so have not tried to replace the flow switch..

Do you have already have the replacement? If so, you might check to see if the new one is thinner at the 'nut' end..

Logic says that someone installed the one that is in there now, so it has to come out.

I guess my point is that if you have the new one already, you can take the old one out in pieces. And if you have too, modify the new one to fit.

Thanks,

Jim R.

According to this, it should come right out:


It would seem Jim's instinct is correct, as usual. Your existing part looks to have a taller nut than it should. Pause the video at 1:34. Odd, but who knows why that would be. If your replacement part looks like the one in the video, then cut the old one out (just saw off the top half of the nut, then unscrew what is left). If not, well, maybe return the replacement part and order another, maybe from somewhere else, until you get the right one.

The other possibility would be to disassemble the display housing from the body, though I have no idea if that's even possible. Seems likely, since that flow switch got in there somehow.
Thanks for the response. That install was what I expected in the video - five minutes max. The one that is in there is a replacement that the pool company put in. I have a new replacement part in hand and the nut on it is the same height as the existing one. I am wondering if the pool company removed the display housing when they replaced it. Does anyone know if you can remove the display housing and if so, how? It of course has in big lettering "Do not remove" on it. After some inspection I can see some marks from a set of pliers - they had to be huge though as that display housing is at least 6" across.
 
Is your replacement flow switch a genuine Pentair part or a 3rd party knockoff?
 
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Thanks for the response. That install was what I expected in the video - five minutes max. The one that is in there is a replacement that the pool company put in. I have a new replacement part in hand and the nut on it is the same height as the existing one. I am wondering if the pool company removed the display housing when they replaced it. Does anyone know if you can remove the display housing and if so, how? It of course has in big lettering "Do not remove" on it. After some inspection I can see some marks from a set of pliers - they had to be huge though as that display housing is at least 6" across.
Sorry, I don't have any experience with the iChlor. It seems logical that it came apart by someone else to get that existing switch in there, but there might be sealant or glue involved, who knows. There could be a good reason for that warning. I would do as I suggested: return the replacement you have and order the true OEM part from somewhere else. Switches and shipping are cheap relative to breaking a $900 iChlor. Why risk it?
 
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I can see both parts on Amazon, a grey one with a tall nut, and others with black nuts half the height. You have the wrong part, times two.
 
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Do you have a part number for the one with the black nut?
Pentair P/N 523100


IntelliChlor Flow-Temperature Switch Replacement Kit (P/N 520736) / iChlor Flow-Temperature Switch
Replacement Kit (P/N 523100)

The 520736 is the grey nut for the IntelliChlor and the 523100 is the thinner black nut for the iChlor.

1670617322410.png
See the Installation Guide attached to this post.
 

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Pentair P/N 523100


IntelliChlor Flow-Temperature Switch Replacement Kit (P/N 520736) / iChlor Flow-Temperature Switch
Replacement Kit (P/N 523100)

The 520736 is the grey nut for the IntelliChlor and the 523100 is the thinner black nut for the iChlor.

View attachment 464824
See the Installation Guide attached to this post.
Thanks!
 
It is a Pentair part. Same label on the wires as the one that is in there as well. Manufacturing dates are different of course.
You made the logical assumption that the replacement part should match the part it was to replace. Not knowing that the previous "repairman" used the wrong part is really his fault. On the bright side, you are now the official TFP iChlor flow switch replacement expert. Please leave your phone on 24/7. You're now on call. (y)
 
$87?!? Yikes. Shop around. Take or leave this advice for what it is, but if I could ever be tempted to use a third-party part, it might be for a flow switch (in fact, I am using one now, though not in my IC). There's not much to them, and chances are decent they're all made in the same plant anyway. You could buy two third-party flow switches for less than $87. For what it's worth, the Pentair flow switch for an IntelliChlor is a notoriously flakey part. They go bad regularly. Who knows, maybe a third-party replacement would be a better version of it.
 
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$87?!? Yikes. Shop around. Take or leave this advice for what it is, but if I could ever be tempted to use a third-party part, it might be for a flow switch (in fact, I am using one now, though not in my IC). There's not much to them, and chances are decent they're all made in the same plant anyway. You could buy two third-party flow switches for less than $87. For what it's worth, the Pentair flow switch for an IntelliChlor is a notoriously flakey part. They go bad regularly. Who knows, maybe a third-party replacement would be a better version of it.

Only if there is a thinner 3rd party flow switch for the iChlor with the thinner nut. Lots of 3rd party flow switches for the IntelliChlor that has who knows what nut thickness?
 
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Only if there is a thinner 3rd party flow switch for the iChlor with the thinner nut. Lots of 3rd party flow switches for the IntelliChlor that has who knows what nut thickness?
I saw many third-party switches for IntelliChlor with the thinner nut (assuming the image can be trusted). I didn't spend any time on the part numbers to determine if the IntelliChlor and iChlor switches are interchangeable. Maybe they are, maybe not. Something for CHBC to ponder.
 
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I don't know this shop, so it could be a roll of the dice. Sometimes a charge card can come to the rescue if you get nicked, but this one is 40 bucks:


Maybe scratch this, this scam site gave it a bad review, though its criteria could mean anything:


AZPoolShop.com had a slightly better price, too, but they don't fare much better on the scam detector sites. Not much help, I realize. Maybe the point is, while I encouraged you to shop around, just be careful doing so.

Just flabbergasted is all, how much they're trying to get for this $9 part (just a guess, but I bet it's even less to manufacture)!
 
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netawsome.com is a scam.

The address they give does not even exist.

Address: 239 Legros Canyon, AK 29434-2288.

ZIP code 29434 is located in eastern South Carolina, not Alaska.

100% fraud.
 
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