IC60 Flow Switch Questions (Bogus Reading then No Reading)

[DB-Cooper]

Thanks to this forum, I think I discovered my salt sensor/flow switch is broken. IC60 was installed this April. I tested using K1766 and it was 19 drops (3800 ppm) and the salt cell reports it's operating, I can send controls down to it (new levels), and it appears to be producing chlorine, at least it has been up until now. I'm not sure the last time I looked at the app, but I'm certain it was working a week ago.

Anyways, here's my question as I read things about no salt level versus bogus salt levels. While testing chlorine this morning, I went into the app to bump up my cell by 5% as I was 0.5 - 1 ppm below my target. I noticed my salt read 2350 which I knew was way off. For peace of mind I did the K1766 test. Then I cycle the pool mode on and off. From then on, it reported no reading (--). I rebooted IntelliCenter, and then did the "Hold Down MORE for 5 seconds" procedure I found on another thread. The cold water LED lit up red which I think based on the description indicates a bad salt sensor.

I know this is not the sensor the IC uses to actually function and is just for reporting. My PB said he'd file a Pentair claim and they'd be calling me. Might as well get it fixed for free, but I'm just curious what the bogus reading prior to the whole think pooping the bed would indicate? Is it possible it could be more than the sensor?

 

[Jimrahbe]

DB,

The flow switch does not have a salt sensor.. The flow switch has two parts.. One, the actual switch, which closes when there is enough water flowing through the cell. Two, a resistor that changes resistance with temperature, called a thermistor. The thermistor just lets the cell know what the water temperature is when determining the salt level.

When the thermistor goes "bad" it will tell the cell the wrong temperature which results in an inaccurate salt reading.. When the salt reading is "zero" it is a different problem, which I believe is a timing issue, and not necessary related to the flow switch.

Even when working, when you switch to the screen showing the salt level, you will initially see zero and after about half a second it will change to a salt level.. My theory is that the system quits looking for the salt level a few microseconds too early and then you just get zero.. Sometimes just rebooting the system will "fix" the problem..

I like the idea of having Pentair fix it...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[DB-Cooper]

Thanks for the technical break down. Prior to this morning, the readings were consistent and reliable. We will see what Pentair ends up doing.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Have you visually inspected the inside of the cell?

 

[DB-Cooper]

Have you visually inspected the inside of the cell?

No. I am feeling confident the cell is working.

 

[Jimrahbe]

DB,

If the "Cell" light comes on, then the cell is working... Keep in mind that the cell light is only on when the cell is making chlorine. So if the output is set to 50% then the cell light will be on for about 2.5 minutes and then off for 2.5 minutes..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[DB-Cooper]

Ironically, after about a week of no reporting, it came back to life. The first day it reported a low 2650, but now for two days in a row it reports 3300. I question the accuracy as prior to this happening I was routinely showing 3500-3600 and drop tests show me closer to 3800. My water level is 1-2" lower than ideal as we've had a bit of a drought as of late.

There's no question I'm producing chlorine though, the system is definitely working.

 

[Jimrahbe]

DB,

The accuracy of the cell's test is only +/- 500 ppm.. So it is more of a guess than anything else..

Jim R.

 

[mguzzy]

Ironically, after about a week of no reporting, it came back to life. The first day it reported a low 2650, but now for two days in a row it reports 3300. I question the accuracy as prior to this happening I was routinely showing 3500-3600 and drop tests show me closer to 3800. My water level is 1-2" lower than ideal as we've had a bit of a drought as of late.

There's no question I'm producing chlorine though, the system is definitely working.

In light of this "sudden rejuvenation" of your cell, I am going to second @Flying Tivo suggestion. You might want to take a peek inside the cell and see if there is build up or something obstructing things. If it just "came back to life," there must be a reason.. it may "go back to dead" on its own as well.

 

[DB-Cooper]

In light of this "sudden rejuvenation" of your cell, I am going to second @Flying Tivo suggestion. You might want to take a peek inside the cell and see if there is build up or something obstructing things. If it just "came back to life," there must be a reason.. it may "go back to dead" on its own as well.

Only thing I can think of is weather, it finally got cold here, both water temp and especially air temp really changed when it woke up. I'm still waiting for a call back from Pentair for warranty. Considering it's had way out of line readings of 1800, 2350, 2650 twice and is still reporting lower than it had been consistently reporting, I'll just let them diagnose it.

 

[DB-Cooper]

Back to no reading today, and we had a freeze overnight. Water temp is the lowest it's ever been (49F) and air temp the same (28F), so rules out the cold theory. (NOTE: pool was filled April, 2020 so hence the first cold...).

 

[Jimrahbe]

DB,

When the water temp gets to about 52 degrees, the cell with go into "Cold Water Shutoff".. When this happens the cell will only have one red light on, and nothing else.. This will also make the salt reading go to zero..

Once this happens, you will need to add liquid chlorine to keep your FC up. Does not take much to do this in the winter months..

My ScreenLogic will report the cold water shut off on the delays and Alerts page.. The IntelliCenter should have something similar..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[DB-Cooper]

DB,

When the water temp gets to about 52 degrees, the cell with go into "Cold Water Shutoff".. When this happens the cell will only have one red light on, and nothing else.. This will also make the salt reading go to zero..

Once this happens, you will need to add liquid chlorine to keep your FC up. Does not take much to do this in the winter months..

My ScreenLogic will report the cold water shut off on the delays and Alerts page.. The IntelliCenter should have something similar..

Thanks,

Jim R.

You're right, it's in cold water mode. That's unrelted to the previous as my pool temp never went below 57F. It's up to 50 now and it's getting warm again, I'll try to catch where it turns back on. I knew there was a cold water mode, but I thought it was lower. I've got enough chlorine in there to fend off this cold front. We're back to 70F later in the week, but I do have a bottle of bleach should I stay in extended cold temps.

I had to go visually look at the unit, at least in the iOS Intellicenter app, there's no indication of cold water. Freeze Protection went on briefly hours ago as the temp was below 30, but now that we're in the mid-40s it's off.

 

[jimbethesda]

I had to go visually look at the unit, at least in the iOS Intellicenter app, there's no indication of cold water.

There can be. If you go to your IntelliCenter touch screen. Go to Settings -> Alerts and Notifications-> IntelliChlor. You’ll see several options. If you select Cold Water Cutoff Alarm, the iOS app will show that it went into cold water mode. My app told me this morning, but now it’s warmed up enough to produce again.

 

[DB-Cooper]

There can be. If you go to your IntelliCenter touch screen. Go to Settings -> Alerts and Notifications-> IntelliChlor. You’ll see several options. If you select Cold Water Cutoff Alarm, the iOS app will show that it went into cold water mode. My app told me this morning, but now it’s warmed up enough to produce again.

Thanks Jim, good tip. Regrettably, my pool did not warm up sufficiently yesterday and is still 49F this morning. Looking at the forecast, I’m doubtful I’ll get above the threshold any time soon. Looks like a trip to Home Depot to stock up on more bleach is in my near future.

 

[DB-Cooper]

There can be. If you go to your IntelliCenter touch screen. Go to Settings -> Alerts and Notifications-> IntelliChlor. You’ll see several options. If you select Cold Water Cutoff Alarm, the iOS app will show that it went into cold water mode. My app told me this morning, but now it’s warmed up enough to produce again.

Further adding for anyone reading, while I did it from the screen per Jim's instructions, you can actually do this through the iOS app: Settings -> System Configuration -> General Settings -> Notifications -> IntelliChlor