IC40 shuts down - then "comm link error"

[chazas]

I have a 2 year old pool with Pentair EasyTouch automation and an Intellichlor IC40 SWG. On opening the SWG will stay on for a while when the system starts up in the morning, or the Easytouch is reset, or I shut off then turn on the main pool breaker. All the lights subsequently go off. The diagnostic menu shows "Comm Link Error."

Any suggestions for troubleshooting? I will also call Pentair, I believe I may have a 3 year warranty since my pool builder put everything in at once.

 

[Jimrahbe]

C,

All the light will go out and you will get a com error if you are in the Service mode, or in AUTO and not in the Pool mode or Spa mode.

Not sure any of that applies, but the next time it shuts off, tell us what the little LCD on the main panel shows.

Since you have ScreenLogic, show us your schedules... Like this.

Schedules1.JPG

• Jimrahbe
• May 27, 2019

ScreenLogic Heaters set up

Thanks,

Jim R,

 

[chazas]

 

[chazas]

It currently says "AUTO" and "POOL" but the cell is still working at the moment, I did a soft reset on the EasyTouch about an hour ago.

 

[Jimrahbe]

C,

Thanks for the schedule.

I was hoping it would be easy..

I was looking for a schedule that turned something on like "Cleaner" where the system would no longer be in the Pool Mode as this would shut of the cell.

On your set up, nothing should shut the lights off, unless you manually turn the pump off, or take it out of the Pool mode, or put it in the Service mode.

Next time the lights shut off see what the main panel Display shows.

Since you have ScreenLogic, it is possible to turn the Pool icon off and not turn the Spa icon on. Since you are not in the pool mode or spa mode all the light would be off.

It could also be a bad pump/filter relay, or wire connection, associated with the power coming from the load side of the pump filter relay to the SWCG transformer. So next time the lights go out, check the Pump/filter relay load side pins and see if you have power going to the SWCG transformer.

Just so you know... about every 12 hours it will turn off and then back on so it can retest the salt level.

I like your idea of calling Pentair if the cell is under warranty.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Are you able to open up the ET and check the connector of the cell to the IC board? Please take a picture if you can.

 

[chazas]

Are you able to open up the ET and check the connector of the cell to the IC board? Please take a picture if you can.

I opened up the front panel but couldn't tell what I was supposed to be looking at. Do I have to remove the top part with the display and buttons?

 

[mknauss]

The IC cable attaches to the outside bottom of the ET panel. Left side.

Be sure the power is off if you take off that cable.

 

[chazas]

The IC cable attaches to the outside bottom of the ET panel. Left side.

Be sure the power is off if you take off that cable.

I tightened that one.

 

[Flying Tivo]

Yes you can remove the top 2 screws and flip the button/lcd panel down. The cable that Marty referrs to from the bottom, goes all the way up behind the panel to a small Power board(ICboard). If you unplug check for over heated connectors.

 

[chazas]

OK, I figured this out. It was user error. Thanks for all the help.

Pool service company that opened the pool dumped way too much baking soda in the pool on opening so I’ve been lowering pH and aerating with the bubblers on the sun shelf to reduce the TA. That setting, “water feature” - I had no idea that if it was turned on by itself on the “Pumps” or “Pool” screen, would result in the SWG turning off. “Pool” has to remain on even if they appear to a normal person (which they do) to be redundant. Why would you need both? They’re just different pump speeds/valve settings. But only one runs the SWG, so they have to overlap. Arrrgh.

I promise I’m actually an intelligent person who like to tinker, but I HATE EasyTouch/ScreenLogic. Logic is literally the last thing I associate with this system. Since the day I got the pool I’ve tried to read up to understand how it works behind the scenes, but the underlying logic of the overlapping “circuits,” switches, “egg timers,” etc. makes zero sense to me. Last season on startup the heater wasn’t working and I ended up paying for a warranty service call. Somehow deep in the panel settings itself the heater had gotten turned off, which is of course not apparent in the app. How, no one knows. Maybe I need to just get used to there being a “thing” every spring when I open.