IC40 Problems

May 15, 2018
32
Front Range
Moved from here.

I replaced my IC40 in April 2016 with a unit purchased from Amazon. This spring, the flow switch failed, I replaced it with a generic bought on Amazon. It failed this weekend. My water chemistry has been perfect for the last two seasons. I really don't want to spend $800-1000, is it possible to switch to using bleach just for this year?
 
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Thanks... I was reprimanded for "hijacking" a post. ? it was unintentionally done because my question was about exactly the same subject and I was trying not to pollute the blog with too many posts about the same subject.
That being said, is it the general recommendation that buying a Chlorinator should of should not be done via Amazon? I keep seeing recommendations some CircuPool chlorinator does anyone have any suggestions?
 
The red flow light is on and the salt lights are both flashing. This happened when we opened the pool in April and I replaced the flow switch then. It's been producing chlorine ever since. When I tested Sunday the FC level was 7 and then yesterday evening I went to turn off the pump for the night and that's when I saw the flow light. Chlorine today is at 2. It's been hot and sunny all week. I've added bleach and ordered another flow switch in hopes that will take care of it. The cell itself shows 4,000 hours of use.

Thanks!!
 
Abby,

Sorry, I must have misunderstood your original post.. I thought you were buying a new cell, not a new flow switch... Flow switches very rarely fail because of the flow switch itself.. They seem to fail all the time for the thermister that is inside the flow switch and that helps calibrate the salt reading.

Getting a new flow switch makes sense... The main reason that the low flow light comes on is a dirty filter and/or the pump running at too slow of a speed.

And just so you know the start up sequence... It the low flow light is on for any reason, the unit will not do the calibration and the red and green flashing lights will just keep flashing.

Next time you get a no flow light, increase your pump speed.. If the flow light turns green, then the mostly likely problem is a dirty filter.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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I have a single speed pump so I don't think I can adjust the speed. I assumed that the flow switch might be indicating a cell failure, thus the question about a new cell. Unfortunately, when I was rechecking the flow switch, I cut the wire too close to where it comes out if the flow switch so I HAD to buy another one. Those wires are tiny and hard to strip...
 
I tried using those the first time but they didn't work, although it is highly likely that I had something else wrong too. I was foolishly trying to do too much at once so I will retry them when I get the new switch. Back to the dirty filter...how does one diagnose that? They filter was installed in July 2010 and we've done nothing else to it since.
 

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Abby,

As long as you can feel a strong flow of water at a pool return, then that should be plenty to turn on a SWCG's flow switch..

It may just be a bad flow switch or just the result of a stripping tiny wires... :mrgreen:

Jim R.
 
Update: the new flow switch has been successfully installed. This was completed on Thursday. Today the water is cloudy. FC was 3.5, no cc'd. I added 1 gallon and a quart of 6% bleach. Salt was at 2690, so I added 80 lbs today and will check that tomorrow. I have two questions: when I replaced the flow switch, the little flapping piece that is the flow "meter" was gone. Do I need to worry about where it went? And is the cloudiness likely due to low salt and FC? CYA is somewhere between 70-80, and pH is 7.2 so it seems chemistry is dead on other than low FC. It hasn't been cloudy since I started using the trouble free pool methods at the beginning of last year's season.
 
The flapper might be in the cell. Check to make sure.

Also, note that there are tools that do a good job of stripping small wire.

Klein Tools 74007 Adjustable Wire Stripper

 
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