IC40 Low Salt After Replacing Flow Sensor

Feb 24, 2018
10
Denver/CO
I see many threads with similar symptoms, but not quite what I experienced:

BLUF: Before replacing flow meter (2-wire version), I had 3700 ppm salt. After replacement with aftermarket 4-wire sensor (only used the two flow wires, isolated temp wires), flow is working but the salt reading dropped to 2650 on Intellitouch, and Low Salt on IC40. Salt test confirms 3600 ppm salt using Taylor test.

Details:

I noticed that my flow light showed green on my IC40, even though there was no flow (not good). After troubleshooting the existing original sensor, I determined the sensor had in internal intermittent short (it would show red for a bit with no flow, but then shift to green). Interestingly, the readout on the Intellitouch display indicated Low Flow even though the IC40 showed a green Flow light. I concluded I had a bad sensor, and ordered a replacement aftermarket flow and temperature sensor. I read reviews and instructions that indicated success using this with a 2-wire (flow only) sensor. I hooked it up and the flow light now behaves properly on the IC40. The Intellitouch display no longer indicates Low Flow, but now indicates Low Salt. Salt readings on the Intellitouch display before replacement ranged from 3600-3800, confirmed by Taylor test to be 3600, and the IC Salt showed "green". After flow meter replacement without any other changes, Salt now reads 2650-2750 on the Intellitouch display, and the Low Salt yellow light is illuminated on the IC40.

Also, prior to replacement, I had the IC40 at 30% duty cycle and maintained chlorine levels. Now I have needed to increase to 50% because the FC has dropped, indicating reduced Chlorine output - that seems consistent with the cell thinking the salt is low???

My questions:
  • The flow meter seems to be only an on/off indicator, so how could that affect salt reading?
  • My IC40 (v1.9) only has two wires, so I assume it does not have a temperature sensor. Is that true? Or, is the temperature sensor on the 2-wire version somehow included in the two wire configuration (e.g., via a small change in resistance when closed)?
  • My Intellitouch has a temperature sensor separate from the IC40. Could that play a role in Salt level estimation? The temperature reading on the Intellitouch is unchanged (85-88F).
  • It doesn't seem that the IC40 v1.9 can be recalibrated based on other threads, and my attempts to recalibrate.
  • The only other thing I can think of that would change the conductivity of the flow through the cell due to a flow meter change (which would result in a change in estimated salt level) would be potential change in flow characteristics through the cell. The replacement cell looked to have very similar geometry (a minor difference in the "bulb" at the end of the flexible metal strap), but perhaps the new sensor is causing some cavitation in the flow into the cell? Any other thoughts?
Thanks for any ideas.

Bill
 
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...Additional info in case anyone has any ideas on this. This morning I turned on the pool, and while the IC40 was still booting up with the three salt lights flashing, the Intellitouch display showed showed 3700 ppm salt and indicated Low Flow. The flow light on the IC40 was green. After the IC40 finished its startup cycle, it displayed the yellow low salt light, and the Intellitouch display showed 2700 ppm salt, and Low Salt. The Low Flow went away but maybe because it was superseded by the Low Salt???

It seems like something is amiss both in the communication from the IC40 to the Intellitouch, and within the IC40 salt sensing.

Still anxiously awaiting the wisdom of this group... thanks.
 
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... OK, one more weird piece of info... I just powered down the pump and IC40 and disconnected the power connected at the Intellichlor power center, checked the pins (a little tarnished), and reinserted and tightened the connector. I then powered it back on. While the lights were still cycling, I thought I'd try again to calibrate. I held the "More" button down for 5 seconds and the expected cycling of the lights began, but I couldn't get it into calibration mode. It just recycled and started scanning the salt lights like it does at power-up. When it was done, the Salt light was green, the Flow light was green. Now the Intellitouch display shows 3700 ppm salt (good, about what I measured), but now it says "Low Flow" again! Flow is fine on the IC40, and appears normal at the pool returns.

I'm not sure what to make of that. I also don't understand how the IC40 communicates with the power center and Intellitouch. Is it through the power cord? It has 4 pins on the connector. They all look like heavy duty power pins, but maybe one or more carries data? There's a low voltage (data?) cord coming from the Intellichlor Power Center to the Intellitouch Power Center box. I will be poking around at the circuitry this weekend to try and figure it out (I'm an engineer, I can't help myself).

I thought replacing the flow meter would fix the Low Flow on the Intellitouch display, but it didn't. Is there a "reset" that needs to be done to the Intellichlor?

Thanks
 
Bill,

How old is your cell??? If your salt cell only has the two wire flow switch, it must be a billion years old.

Jim R.
Hah! only half a billion :) Mfg date is 10/23/2008 IC-V1.9R. I bought the house 8 years ago, and I think the pool was built in 2005, so maybe not the original IC-40. It indicates 60% life when I checked that, but I don't know how long it has been operating.
 
Bill,

When the cell only has two wires, I would have to assume it does not have a temper adjusting thermistor.. I also believe that these older cells had a calibration routine that the pool owner could do..

Keep in mind that the 2-wire flow switch has nothing to do with the salt readings.. It just says there is flow, or not, just a yes/no answer. Without flow, the cell will never even try to test the salt level.

I did see this about calibrating old cells... How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Pentair Intellichlor - INYOPools.com

Check and see if your face plate matches the face plate in the link...

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Bill,

When the cell only has two wires, I would have to assume it does not have a temper adjusting thermistor.. I also believe that these older cells had a calibration routine that the pool owner could do..

Keep in mind that the 2-wire flow switch has nothing to do with the salt readings.. It just says there is flow, or not, just a yes/no answer. Without flow, the cell will never even try to test the salt level.

I did see this about calibrating old cells... How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Pentair Intellichlor - INYOPools.com

Check and see if your face plate matches the face plate in the link...

Thanks,

Jim R.
Thanks, Jim. I have seen the calibration procedure. I’ve tried it but can’t seem to get the procedure to work. I have seen reports that it doesn’t work on V1.9 and later, but there’s some mixed info on that.

it doesn’t make sense to me either that the on/off flow switch could affect the salt reading.Must be some other intermittent “feature”. I plan to check wiring and clean up connectors this weekend.
 
Bill,

Please confirm that there are only two wires coming from the cell and into the flow switch assembly..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Yes, only two wires coming out of the main body of the IC40, red and black. The two wires are sheathed in a gray overwrap, and there did not appear to be any prior modifications, so it appears to be the the original flow switch. Flow switch Harwil model Q-12DS-C2 (StackPath).

The aftermarket replacement I purchased (Aftermarket Flow Switch for Pentair® IntelliChlor® Salt Systems [FS-P] - $49.00 : Pool Guy Supply, Swimming Pool Supplies and Equipment - Free Shipping) shows how to wire it for a 4-wire, 3-wire, or 2-wire installation. I confirmed proper operation using the indicated red and black wire with a multimeter prior to installation. As a side note, if anyone else buys this as a replacement, I had a hard time inserting the switch into the port on the IC40. The new switch had a slightly different geometry of the bulb (magnet?) at the end of the metal strip, which didn't easily fit in the hole in the port. I got it in with some help from a small screw driver to push the bulb through without bending the metal strip (not much, at least).

Bill
 

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