IC40 Issues

[Drewmich]

I am thinking my IC40 needs replaced or maybe the flow switch.

Pool tests ....
FC-1.25
PH - 7.3
ALK - 88
C-265
CLA - 43
SL - 3200
Water temp - 80+

I have the Intell-Touch Load Center Control w/ IC40. I have the ILC settings for the IC40 set at 50% .... and the IC40 on board at (3) lights or 60% for this week.

The IC40 fins are kept clean the filters have been cleaned since the pool was opened from winter....

I get the salt level lights flashing sometimes ... after running green for hours .... then the flow light goes red ...

Only way to change it is to IC power system down .... let it set for 10 min... then power up. After the 5 min diags ... all lights go green.

I'm not sure if it is producing CH ... so I have it on 100% running the pump all night and will check CH in the AM.

I do have a auto pool cover and its closed.

Any ideas ......

I'm also posting a separate topic about a pool leak.

thanks!

 

[kimkats]

So how did the overnight FC test go?

 

[Dirk]

You've probably already read here: the IC40 flow switches are notoriously unreliable. Are you still under warranty? Pentair will replace the flow switch if you gather evidence that is the problem. Some of the tech support people will try and get you to add more salt. But you can rebut that if you have a proper test kit (Taylor K-1766). I argued that I already had the correct amount of salt, based on my Taylor test, and was not going to add more as a troubleshooting step to appease Pentair tech support's get-out-of-paying protocols (paraphrasing, I was nicer about it, of course). They caved and sent out a technician. I lucked out in that the tech they sent to my pool was not in the mood to mess with the flow switch and instead declared my entire SWG kapoot on the spot, and just replaced the whole thing. So I got a brand new unit out of the deal. Thanks, Pentair, serves you right for continuing to ship that IC40 with the known defective part. It's definitely years they've known about it, like many years. Erg.

Anyway, that tech is now my go-to Pentair repairman!! Point was, I'm wondering if you can leverage that story in your favor? Maybe call around to authorized Pentair repair centers and feel them out about their policy. And then if you find a shop that is "pro-replace," either have them initiate the claim, or request of Pentair that they send a guy from your "preferred" shop? I will in the future. There is a support center that is closer to me, but that's the guy that destroyed my pool, so I told Pentair I can't use him, so they sent a guy from a different shop, apparently they have some flexibility in that regard. I'm rambling. But there might be something there you can wrangle in your favor. Maybe worth a couple extra phone calls? Is that unethical? Is it unethical for Pentair to keep manufacturing these lemons?

Or is your IC40 older? There is a way to have the IC40 reveal its cell life. I forget the button pushing configuration. It should be in the manual.

And if not at end of life, or under warranty, I've been told you can order and replace the flow switch yourself... But that's after you've confirmed you have enough salt with the Taylor K-1766...

 

[Drewmich]

I am running 3000-3200 regularly on salt via K-2006 regular testing. The IC40 runs fine some days and others just flashes back and forth - red green. I just turn power off for 30 min then reset it - it normally resets ok.

I will call Pentair and see who they recommend to come out. I am able to keep my FC around 1.5 with just 60% output ... pump running 6-8 hrs day .... which is fine for my pool as it gets low use and is covered 75+% of the time. Water is always crystal clear....

 

[Jimrahbe]

Drew,

To be clear, the main failure with the flow switch is because of the failure of an internal thermistor used to compensate for water temperature when testing for the salt level.. The flow part of the flow switch does not fail very often. If your flow light goes on and you know for sure that you have a good volume of water coming out of your returns, then the flow switch could be bad. Obviously, if the flow out of the returns is weak, the problem is not the IC40.

The Red and Green flashing lights should only happen each time the salt system is powered up and usually lasts for 5 minutes or less. This indicates the IC40 is calibrating itself. If you are seeing the Red/Green flashing lights other than at start up, the cell is most likely bad..

If the cell is more than 5 years old, I'd be inclined to buy a new one.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Dirk]

The cell keeps a rudimentary tally of its lifespan. I forget the sequence of button pushes. It’s in the manual. It’ll give you an estimate of how much life the cell has left, if any.

 

[ajw22]

The cell keeps a rudimentary tally of its lifespan. I forget the sequence of button pushes. It’s in the manual. It’ll give you an estimate of how much life the cell has left, if any.

Page 19 in https://pentairpool.com/~/media/websites/pool/downloads/sanitizers/manuals/intellichlor_owners_manual_version_3_units_after_nov_2011_english.pdf

To access the system status mode:
1. Press and hold the MORE button for three (3) seconds until the lights scroll across the unit.
2. One (1) of the five (5) Sanitizer Output LED indicators (20%, 40%, 60%, 80% and 100%) will be lit, indicating the hours of usage. The Output LEDs are as follows:
• 2000 hours (20% LED on)
• 4000 hours (40% LED on)
• 6000 hours (60% LED on)
• 8000 hours (80% LED on)
• 10,000 hours (100% LED on)

 

[Dirk]

Thanks Allen!